Steve P

@Frank McElroy Yes indeed. Fast idle via the Set/Res double tap has been fine. Using the brake pedal as the means to cancel what I was referring to, and doing, both before and after swapping relays front to back, and then swapping the diodes. The cruise cancel via the brake pedal was not reliable until I swapped the diodes. Thank you for your assistance and the backstage discussions with Tom Cherry. I'll report the test drive results Tuesday evening.

@Tom CherryYep, I grabbed two diodes at the local NAPA in Vernon NY near us. I replaced the diode that seemed to be intermittent and unpredictable. We are shoving off tomorrow for Vermont... 250 miles should be a good test drive for the cruise cancel! And the new Neutral Sensor diode. Thanks for the help. I still plan to test the different legs of the R2 Relay (BRK SIG RELAY) in the front bay to see exactly how that behaves. I also need to do the pressure check in the morning to see how low the pressure gets while the brake lights still work.

OK, I did part of the diagnostics and when I got to the diode swap it seemed to clear up the cruise cancel problem. In other words, the cruise cancel had been working intermittently while swapping relays and all the relays appeared to be good but when I swapped the diodes, the cruise cancel worked every time. I will drive it cautiously for a few 100 miles in low or no traffic before I have confidence in it. Now the question is what does the diode do that is labelled NEUT SNS CM ? I'm picking up a replacement today at NAPA, but I'm still curious...

If you are not staying near fairly sizable towns and cities where Enterprise rental and/or Uber/Lyft are available, you are going to find the simplest errands immensely frustrating. You can't backup when flat towing, so that is no better, although unhooking may be easier (I have nothing to compare to... we flat tow). Just map your RV-friendly route in advance with RV Life and use their GPS. THAT alone will keep you out of the jams from turns down a dead end, or stopped just short of a low overpass. Just in case, practice unhooking until you get it down to a few minutes (using a checklist is especially helpful when under pressure to "hurry up and get out of the way"). If you put the pickup completely on a trailer, it might solve some problems, but it does add a whole new set of potential issues to prepare for. And you could trade the pickup for one that is flat towable.

Don't know if mine is 3M or Diamond Shield or what... it lasted 14 years then started cracking and getting brown mold under the film. I only have 3 weeks in October to complete a solution. I have no issue with doing the complete makeover, but can't find 3, 2, or 1 company in the vicinity of NE Georgia that can meet the timeline. Been trying for months... I would not even consider truck bed liner. Not keen on the appearance. Can't imagine trying to clean bugs off. A definite no go for me. My headlights are still crystal clear... one is original, and the other is two years new... indoor or covered storage may be the reason. I might still have them filmed to extend their life. Seems like a good idea although they are not a flat surface.

We've run with and without... currently using them every trip on the two hydraulic slides. Seems like a better safe than sorry option. Lots of those in camping. Turning off the 39 gallon propane tank valve for example? Locking the entry door while traveling? Moving around the MH while underway? Personal risk decisions...

I need the benefit of perspective and experience from people on this site. I'm thinking I'll avoid the whole film removal, paint or paint touch up, and film replacement cycle plus time and expense, by using a bra. I would likely leave the current film on even though it looks terrible because it protects the front of the coach and then I would just snap the bra in place when we stop, particularly at some of the snobby RV parks. What are your thoughts? Oh, one possible supplier: activervupholstery.com

@Trevor and Laura Once the breaker for the inverter inside the coach is on (probably in the bedroom), and the circuit breakers on the side of the inverter itself (in the outside bay) are on, you shouldn't at any time have to fool with the actual inverter. You can test running your fridge off the inverter at your convenience... just plug it in behind the side vent, and unplug your 15A cord. If it is a dual fridge (AC/LP gas), you will have to change the mode from AU (auto select) to AC. Your inverter should switch automatically from Chg to Inv on the wall panel (the Magnum Energy" remote). If it doesn't switch to Inv, just do it manually by pressing "Inverter On/Off" on the same panel. If the fridge/freezer starts out cold and doesn't have to run much, it should be able to run 8 or more hours without running the hose batteries too low. You didn't say whether you have generator auto-start to charge low batteries, so you may be running have to check the house batteries charge state every few hours until you approximate the power draw. I seriously doubt you will want to try to run any other appliances... you might even want to unplug the microwave, phone chargers, etc. After your test run of the inverter, you can plug the heavy duty extension cord back into your 50A cord (with some combo of 30A and 110V 3-prong adapter), and make sure the inverter goes to Chg state (or use the wall panel to switch it back). Then, be sure to do as Tom Cherry said: on the Intellic 50 amp Smart EMS wall panel, press the 30/20 Amp select button until the 20 amp light glows. The EMS should manage the power usage from there. Good luck and hope you get to feeling 100% for your trip. Learning an RV is a journey.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/neat-distributing-275-gal-fda-approved-ibc-tote-nb275

Steam gauge... kidding of course

Rear Run Bay pics were hi-res and plainly visible until they were uploaded... I will take better ones tomorrow

Front Run Bay

Plenty of recent threads... seemingly leaning toward Toyo or Yokohama. Michelin is said to have a hard ride. Everyone is thumbs down on Goodyear, but before I knew better, I bought 6 of those on day 1 of ownership with a very old date code and have had reliable service from them for the past 3 years. I am budgeting for new tires every 5 years unless they show issues sooner. Other options like beads, bands, are discretionary purchases, and owner preferences abound.

My interior handle is metal like the brochure, and it is loose, same as Dennis's. Outside is plastic, not lighted as far as I have known. The plates holding the inside handle ends are rock solid, secured by 2 screws on each plate (so much so that I haven't wanted to risk buggering up the screws trying to get them out). The interior nut that probably tightens the handle to the backplate may or may not adjust further, and may or may not have space for a washer. The 1/4" that it wiggles up & down is not bothersome enough to prioritize the repair in comparison to other challenges. Following the topic...

Yes, all the cruise functions work on the driver side console, no exceptions. l think I can do all that you've described... but it will have to be on a cooler day than today (unseasonably hot day in NY). Maybe Friday of no rain. Front of the MH is facing south for the next week baking in the sun. One thing about ordinary brake lights: they seem only to work when the ignition is on (as expected) AND the air is around 65+ lbs guessing by the analog gauge. Second weird thing: when applying the brakes, the center marker light on the rear flashes first, then goes out, and as you continue to apply the brakes, all the lights then light including that one. Below 65ish, no brake lights. Is that due to treadle valve? So, Step one: VOM on a VDC setting, use leads to see which pin, 85 or 86 has 12V (measure between pin and known ground). Step two: VOM on ohms setting, while assistant presses brake, use leads to measure for ground on other pin. I don't really know what you mean... where to put 2nd lead and how to find diode to measure at both sides. Also, measurements at treadle switch may be useful, so I'm looking at wires for labels. Thanks in advance!

@Tom Cherry My brake lights and toad lights are working fine after I replaced the trailer socket. Thanks for the prints. You are correct... I have no VIP/Smartwheel. I studied the prints on my phone. I have to admit circuit diagrams are not my strong suit... that said, I see several possibilities: the service brake treadle valve (which is what? Some kind of air pressure sensor that signals electrically when an air pressure drop occurs during braking? Supposedly on the firewall? ). I don't really understand the principles of how that works. I also see what I think is a fuse symbol in the circuit above the BRK SIG RLY, and the relay is shown on both prints, and I have swapped the relay with a new one of like kind. And did a continuity check on the fuse with a VOM. And still, cruise will not cancel. Is that a diode in the circuit diagram? What are the odds that it might be bad? APPARENTLY, I'm over my head and subject to rapidly losing my mind... If I need a repair facility, I guess I better find a good Cummins Service Center. The one in Gaffney SC is already miles behind me. I'm in Syracuse NY, then Stowe VT, Laconia NH, and coastal ME up to Bar Harbor. Any recommendations, anyone? Thanks everyone for the insights so far!

I changed the BRK SIG RELAY in the front run bay this afternoon. We leave for Philly in the morning. I hope this solves the problem. It's not proper diagnosis, but it was cheap and easy. If it doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to figure out what else to test and how to isolate the problem.

Thanks to the pics from Dennis, I found my brake switches... see below. However, it was my impression that one switch operated the brake lights and there other the cruise (I'm guessing the prints tell the story, so back to deciphering those, and looking for the infernal BRK SIG RLY.)

Thanks Dennis! My brake lights are fine. Im stil searching for the pressure switches...

@Tom Cherry My brake lights and toad lights are working fine after I replaced the trailer socket. Thanks for the prints. You are correct... I have no VIP/Smartwheel. I studied the prints on my phone. I have to admit circuit diagrams are not my strong suit... that said, I see several possibilities: the service brake treadle valve (which is what? Some kind of air pressure sensor that signals electrically when an air pressure drop occurs during braking? Supposedly on the firewall? ). I don't really understand the principles of how that works. I also see what I think is a fuse symbol in the circuit above the BRK SIG RLY, and the relay is shown on both prints, and I will swap the relay with another of like kind. And do a continuity check on the fuse with a VOM. Regarding the relay, I think this is the infamous Front Run Bay with it's G8VL-1A4T-R-L Omron relays that I can't find. Nor can I find a substitute. I'll go back to NAPA with the relay and the spec on the print. APPARENTLY, I'm over my head and subject to rapidly losing my mind... If I need a repair facility, I guess I better find a good Cummins Service Center. The one in Gaffney SC is already miles behind me. I'm in Winchester VA, with stops in Philadelphia, Syracuse NY, Stowe VT, Lavonia NH, and coastal ME up to Bar Harbor. Any recommendations, anyone? Thanks everyone for the insights so far!

The cancel cruise switch is on the side console (no smart wheel on Knight's, at least not that year). It works, but the delay in an emergency could be a costly difference.

I have two of these hanging on the firewall, drivers side, seen when opening the generator hatch... what are they for? (I a.m stil chasing the issue with my cruise not cutting off when I hit the brakes.) Thanks for the help. I'm traveling and having cruise control cutoff sure would be nice! It's not safe the way it is.

I finished applying about 6-8 feet of Dicor self-leveling sealer about 7 hours ago. Some of is is about 4 inches wide. I tooled it with a paint scraper, and it's no work of art, but it is much better than what was there previously. I'm hoping that the 93 degree heat this afternoon is enough to cure it in case we get the rain that is suddenly forecast (of course!). I read it's waterproof in 4 hours... it may get put to the test. 24-48 hours to get 80% cured. 30 days to 100%. Maybe I should have taken it back to the storage facility...

It never occurred to me until this week. Can anyone tell me for sure if there is one reservoir (side panel where a/c condenser is) or two (second would be in a location which is unknown to me). Power Level jacks and two hydraulic slides... search of owners manual was not conclusive. Although it does say ATF of a particular type was to be used, which I knew....

@Tom Cherry Great info. Some of it new to me. As always, I appreciate your comprehensive explanations! Blue tape to the rescue!