gdroberson

will try that thanks

DONT KNOW WHERE THE RELAY IS THE ALT IS PUTTING OUT 14.4 V

NO WENT BACK AND INSTALLED ALL THE ORIGINAL BULBS STILL THE SAME

2001 HR DIESEL 30FOOT AMBASSADOR I REPLACED MY DASH PANEL AND ALL THE BULBS TO LED BUT NOW MY CHECK ALT LIGHT STAYS ON I HAVE CHECKED EVERY FUSE I CAN FIND ALL GOOD I THINK IT MUST HAVE A RELAY SOME WHERE BUT CANT FIND ONE I ORDERED A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 2001 AMBASSADOR SO HOPEFULLY I CAN FIND IT BUT IN THE MEAN TIME WHILE I AM WEIGHTING I THOUGHT MAYBE SOMEONE ELSE HAVE HAD THERE LIGHT STAY ON AND CAN TELL ME WHAT THERE FIX WAS THANKS

go on amazon and get the led light strip and cut to fit make sure that it is the right voltage

my coach has a 4inos hose on the valve where the air comes out and that keeps it from whistling

had to replace the hoses on mine they was full of tinny holes went to the hose man and had new ones made

mine took 5 gal.

I have been doing solid surface tops for over 25 years and the only glue that will stick is the glue for solid surface and silicone if I where you I would contact a counter top co. and have them clean it and reglue it you clean it with denatured alcohol

needs to be two part epoxy made for solid surface

the back unscrews you stick something in the inside and the back unscrews off

thank for all the help

that is the locks the part I need is plastic part that is screwed to the inside track where the window slides so when you open the window it holds the window up so it just dont slide down puts pressure on the side of the window

Hi all I have two of the atwood windows that slide up in my coach and they had a plastic piece that is screwed to the inside frame that hold the window up when you open it they have broke does anyone know what they are called and where I might find them thank Gary

if you decide to do it you can go to hd and get the 1/4 brass caps to cap off brake lines so you don't have brake fluid leaking all over the place

I was having a problems with my breaks not working well did a complete fluid flush that helped but on the long trip we took to Redding a few month back my brake pedal felt spongy and would slowly go down some when I was stopped at a light so last week I decided to bleed the brakes again and it was better but would creep down when pushing on the pedal and I did not have any brakes until the pedal was about half way down I did not think it was the master had no leaking or fluid loss but why I was under the coach I noticed that the back brake lines was braided steel lines and the front was the rubber lines so I pulled the front lines off and took them to the hose man and had new steel braded lines made took care of all my pedal problems now I have good solid pedal go's down about about a inch to a inch and a half wen I step on them so if you are having spongy pedal problems try replacing the rubber lines cheep fix coast me 50.00 a hose to have made you have to take your old hoses with you because they have to use the old part of the line that hooks to the calipers

I would use 1" hole saw lots of oil while cutting

you can buy them on ebay

you can get the hold down straps on amazon measure the ones you take off and there is a notch in the track that you remove the old and slide in the new should be a screw that keeps it in place

did you count the turns it took to unwind