Jdw12345

Ours quit a couple of years ago, used the trouble shooting guide and a VOM to diagnose the issue, ours was the high limit temp sensor. Use the guide that was on the link that someone sent you on Facebook. Start learning about your coach and your systems. 
 You’ll thank yourself later in your ownership. 
 

Just send a message through the messenger in my profile, if that doesn’t work just start a new thread.

 I’m going to be busy for the next few days, coach is here at home I’ll see what I can do.

I have the same model year coach and engine trany combo. If you want I cane check and see if there’s a part number, the unfortunate part is these things are snowflakes and sometimes things aren’t the same.  What’s your build date on the sticker next to the drivers seat?

 I’m assuming you have a MH3000 and a ISL 400…..

It’s not a bad idea to replace the hose clamps also, just make sure you get HD Truck hose clamps, constant torque clamps are usually available at HD Truck parts dealers, Peterbilt, Kenworth, ect, , jmo.

A couple of things to consider, imo, how long are you planing on keep the coach, and if that answer is a number of years, then I would say you should probably remove the entire exhaust manifold and replace all of the exhaust manifold gaskets…… and be done with it.

 Coming from running our own trucking business it’s more cost effective to fix these types of issues once and not have to deal with it again. I haven’t heard about a significant amount of ISM’s with manifold issues like the ISL’s but I’m not an ISM owner so I don’t look for problems with that power plant. Chances are that there’s another gasket issue right around the corner but then again maybe not, you never know, at 24 years old it’s a crap shoot! JMO!

These are the type that are on a number of heavy duty trucks, then you have a remote cable to drain, fwiw.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO810128?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google

More than likely your gauge is fine, there’s a sending unit right behind the starter for that gauge, usually it’s the issue.

I think about this every time I see anything that has not been taken care of, cars, boats, coaches, motorcycles, ect, ect, everything was brand new one day!

For the life of me, I can’t comprehend how anyone could ever think that holding down the boost switch is how to solve there issue! I just can’t understand that train of thought! 

Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?

I agree with vito.a, I would consider finding a complete front axle at a salvage yard and do the swap, I would thing to piece the parts together would be a big challenge, you’d have to have different mounting for the brake canisters etc, that would be a chore!

I put an air chuck at the rear of the coach by installing a T at the petcock for draining the rear tank and for any air requirements at the rear of the coach. On a side note I removed the male end and went to the parts store and purchased the appropriate female end to fit the male that was on the coach at the time of manufacturing, that way I can air up the coach with shop air for whatever reason.

How old are the batteries? If they are close to being replaced I wouldn’t spend any time trying to charge them, I’d just replace them with new and get the coach back home and then proceed accordingly. You could also remove the batteries from you pickup and use them provided you have wheels to do so. JMO.

I totally agree with the statements above!

The picture you posted indicates that the air line is leaking, I can only assume that is why you are asking about the air ride valve, you might be able to remove that leaking air line and reinsert it if it still leaks make a clean cut, no burs, and re-insert the air line, hopefully that there is enough extra air line to try this, I’ve noticed on some of my air lines that they cut them off just a hair short. 
If you’re wanting a new air ride valve you should be able to get one at any heavy duty truck parts store.

Looks to me like the drag link has been replaced so it’s probably a different design, notice the drag like isn’t panted like everything around it, doesn’t answer your question but it’s hard to know if it’s been replaced with a sub standard part. Jmo.

I installed a new muffler on my 05 a couple of years ago, I would think that your 03 is similar, the Walker 22552 was a replacement for my stock muffler using the oem tail pipe that existed on the right hand side, I purchased it from Amazon, it shows it currently unavailable but any Walker dealer should be able to order one,  I used all the existing muffler hanger brackets and straps. If I remember correctly it measured 10” across and around 26 or 28” long, it was oblong in shape, And it didn’t appear to have much for restriction, just some baffling, the oem muffler I removed had much more internal baffling.

update, here’s a link to the muffler I used,

https://www.walkerexhaust.com/find-my-part/part-details.html?part_number=22552&brand_code=BDCN

At that rate it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out where it coming from, imo.

For those that may have not seen this, purely for information  

https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bcontent/PDF/RV_Tires_Brochure.pdf

It will be interesting to hear your report about the new tires!

So you must carry a generous supply of spare parts to cover the air leveling system also then?

Sorry to hear about your troubles deanrd!

 Thanks for the response deandrd & 96EVO, curious to know what mileage you are at? Assuming you have an ISL…

If I’m hooked to shore power and I’m leaving in the morning and it’s chilly out, I just use the block heater. I have used the block heater and the AH engine heater at the same time if I’m ahead of schedule and want to warm it up a bit quicker. Jmo.

In regards to lifting your coach up for maintenance, I built a set of ramps out of 2x10’s to drive the coach up on, best thing I ever did for working underneath the ole girl! I built 6 ramps and lift the tag axle then when it’s up there I just use square blocks under the tag and drop it down to equalize the load on the chassis when it’s up on the ramps, obviously if you have to get in somewhere where the body could come down on you and trap you it should be blocked/ supported in some fashion. I don’t remember who suggested that idea but excellent idea!

It’s a bit unnerving the first time you drive up on the ramps, it takes a bit of power but if you control the movement with the brakes instead of the throttle it’s pretty easy, just don’t drive off the end!!!

I’ve spent most of my life rolling around under trucks with a bit more room so this was an excellent idea to make more room under the coach, and if the air suspension should fail while you’re under it, you should have enough room to get out!

deanrd just curious how things are going?

 Me friend is considering getting a coach with the DPF on it and we are just educating ourselves on these types of issues..

        Thanks 

One thing to look at is wheel seals too, if you’re not familiar with them you have to look at them from the brake side of the hubs, if you happen to have a wheel seal leaking also it’s possible that it’s indicating an issue with the differential, thrust washers, bearings, ect. Just something to stick in your head, it unlikely to have two seals leaking at the same time, metal fragments floating around in the lube will cause multiple or reoccurring seal issues. Just something to know.