Jdw12345
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Posts posted by Jdw12345
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1 hour ago, Joint Venture said:
I decided not to have the 2 SM209 modules repaired but instead I purchased a new SM210 module and a J12 plug in harness from Northwest RV supply. The cost for the SM210 was not much more then the repair to a single SM209 module. I'll install the new module and replace my burnt J12 plug keeping my goof SM209 as a back up spare. The two SM209's that need repaired will be kept but anyone that needs a core can have them for free. Thank you for everyone's input and it helped me make the decision to purchase a new module.
Personally I think it’s the only way to go, I’m not convinced that fixing a known problem and not fixing the cause has any value. It’s like putting air in a tire that has a hole in it and not plugging the whole. Jmo.
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FWIW I replaced my problematic SM 209 with a brand new one from VIP, the replacement is the SM210, maybe you already know this, at any rate the SM210 is more robust, I also purchased and replaced a new end to wiring harness that plugs into the controller. All working well now and no heated wiring harness any longer.
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We purchased our coach a few years ago, the previous owner had to replace the front unit a few months before we purchased the coach, the new unit seems to make more cool air than the old unit, I have no idea what the hours are on the rear unit but it certainly doesn’t perform as well as the new one up front. I wouldn’t spend my money or time on replacing old units with old units if you plan on keeping the coach, just my opinion.
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Since you mentioned you are looking for the air dryer location, on our 05 Dynasty it’s on the driver’s side of the transmission mounted up high, but it is not actually mounted to the transmission. If you haven’t already serviced it, I recommend using a OEM spin on filter ( should be around 90 bucks) and it’s not a bad idea to replace the purge valve on the bottom of the dryer housing, most people don’t ever replace the purge valve, with 20 years of service it is most likely due, not very expensive either!
The only comment I have to add in regards to filters is, be cautious of online counterfeit filters, there’s plenty of them out there! JMO.Here’s a link to info regarding the air dryer, confirm your model number.
https://www.wabco-customercentre.com/catalog/docs/mm34_web.pdf
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I did the awning over the entry door by myself, if your talking about the big one , have a couple of people to help!
The hardest part for me was getting the awning square between the roller and the coach, fwiw.
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Please let us all know what the issues are once it’s resolved.
This is a good document to have with you, even if you are not comfortable working on the unit, assuming you don’t have it.
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On 2/4/2021 at 12:15 PM, Scotty Hutto said:
Upgraded the dash radio and speakers and added a subwoofer to my dash radio.
Replaced the stock Magnadyne (1.5 DIN) radio with a Pioneer AVH-X4800BS double din radio. Thanks to @pwhittle for the very sleek trim plate. (Note: This is a unit I already owned; If I were to purchase something today, I would get one with CarPlay and Bluetooth -- something like the Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX)
Added a Pioneer TS-WH500A powered subwoofer and placed it under the dash console behind the bottom drawer
When I added the pic below, it reminded me that I removed about 6-8’ of flex AC conduit that was coiled up back there
Replaced the stock Magnadyne 5-1/4" speakers with JBL Concert Series 521 5-14" 2-way speakers. Although I went from 3-way to 2-way, the sound is greatly improved.
Hey Scott,
What mounting bracket did you use to mount this unit in your dash? I’m presuming your dash is a flat panel.
Thank you!
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2 hours ago, joefromperry said:
I have a 1/2" to 3/4" impact adapter. Would that not work?
No I don’t believe so, I don’t think it will give you the proper torque you want. If you’re going to buy an electric impact, Milwaukee (and other brands) make a 1” electric impact, I think I would lean that way if you want to buy tools. It’s expensive to tool up to do tires and wheels but if you’re going to do the work yourself buy once cry once, jmo!
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It might be hard to find a torque stick with 450 foot pounds of torque in a 1/2” drive, you might end up getting a 3/4” impact to do the job. I use a 3/4” air impact and a 4’ long torque wrench on my wheels.
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Nice work Mike, glad to see you use Wabco/Meritor genuine parts. I was also in the trucking business for all my life, when it comes to the air dryer I use only genuine parts.
After purchasing our coach 2 1/2 years ago servicing the air dryer was one of the first things I serviced.
For those looking to service there air dryer here’s a link that you might want,
https://www.wabco-customercentre.com/catalog/docs/mm34_web.pdf
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If you decide to service the system at some point, it’s a good time to change the system fluid, if you do this consider going to TranSynd 668, same fluid as you might/should have in the transmission and reduces the number of fluids that you need to carry in your vehicle. Jmo.
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I would find the pressure switches that Jim mentioned above and start there, maybe this has been done, idk….
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To my understanding these are considered a “floating windshield” and are designed to do this, if they didn’t they would break. Just think what the rest of the coach is doing? I try hard not to put our coach into a twisting situation as much as possible. Jmo.
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You can test the magnetic by opening the door with the engine running, if you have a magnetic put it up to the face of the magnet in the door jam,that would simulate the door being closed, the steps should retract, put the magnet back to the receiver in the door jam and the steps should deploy. There’s two magnet receivers on my door jam, one for the lights on the handles and one to command the steps to deploy..
Hopefully this helps.
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You might be able to get swimming pool vacuum hose at Lowe’s.
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13 hours ago, jacwjames said:
Test strips have a shelf life and have to be stored correctly. And with that their video says that they are not a substitute for lab analysis. A bottle of 10 cost ~$35, I can get a lab test done for that.
Fwiw, It is not necessarily to purchase that many test strips at a time,
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Quotes from Fleetguard,
With proper maintenance, Fleetguard ES Compleat™ coolant can last for the major overhaul life of your engine. However, when poor quality make-up water is added to the system or when minimum coolant maintenance is not observed, pH levels can rise or fall to dangerous levels and contaminants (Sulfate and Chloride) can rise to unacceptable levels. When this occurs, coolants must be drained and replaced immediately. Use Fleetguard's revolutionary Quik-Chek™ Coolant Quality Test Strips to determine the quality of their coolants. In a matter of minutes the pH, Sulfate and Chloride levels in a coolant can be determined. If results fall within acceptable limits, the coolant can be used until the next service interval with confidence. The Quik-Chek™Coolant Quality Test Strips are available in bottles of 10 test strips.
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Just make sure that whatever coolant you use it’s compatible with ALL the components in your cooling system, so that includes, up front heat exchangers, transmission cooler’s, Aqua Hot systems, etc etc……. And above all make sure you get ALL of the old coolant out of the system, some coolants are not compatible with other coolant’s and can turn into a jelly like mess in a cooling system.
You don’t have to necessarily add SCA’s but the coolant should be checked with test strips.
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I believe the air pressure gauges are mechanical, not electric. You might have a severe air leak!
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On 11/5/2023 at 9:48 AM, Happycarz said:
Jeff,
Silicone hoses permeate water, but not coolant. OTR trucks tend to loose five gallons of water per year. (So, does that mean a motorhome might use a pint in a year?) When the trucker keeps topping off his system with 50/50 coolant mixture, the coolant becomes more and more concentrated.
That’s interesting Harry, where did you find this information?
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Glad to see you have joined us Mike! You’re a great asset to Monaco owners!
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I too wash ours myself and use Mist n Shine with some lint free towels from CostCo, I use it on the windshield and all the glass, when we hit rain we don’t have to use the wipes much, they also have a Bug Release that i spray on before washing, seems to help.
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6 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
Only thing I see missing is the grey water bypass.
I thought my inlet size was larger than 1 1/2”, maybe not…….
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I might not be understanding this, I just looked at the specs on this pump, it doesn’t look like the Santi-con pump/ grinder I have
VIP SM209 board repairs
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted · Edited by Jdw12345
Plug n play on my 05 Monaco Dynasty, other than the new pigtail.
I even had the relays on my bench for the fix. I called IMMI and ordered direct, like $380.00 plus shipping. I asked myself, really, $400.00, it was a no brainer for me. JMO.
I think I waited for a couple of weeks for delivery. NW RV has them in stock right now I believe.