JJMonaco

Thanks Richard, Ivan and Jim. We are currently on our first adventure on our 2002 Signature after spending almost a year of upgrading. Left Punta Gorda four days ago and now in the mountains of South Carolina. Cell coverage is slim where we are so just want to thank you all for the info. When we get back to Florida in a few months I will be looking to get more engine monitoring ability. All The Best, John J 2002 Signature

Not to hijack the post—-What is Silverleaf VM SPC? I would like to use on my 2002 Signature. What do I need? The oil pressure on my Cummins 500 currently reads 60 at startup and drops to 30ish going down the road.

Check if there is power at the switch with a volt meter. If so, lift up the bed and check the connections at the electric motor. Could be a ground problem?? Have someone operate the switch and check for power at the motor with your volt meter. I will check my wiring diagram when I go to my coach to see if I can figure out where the relay is that should be feeding the motor. John J 2002 Signature Centurion

I finished removing the two old salesman solenoids and replaced them with two Victron BP65-non smart switches. I didn’t use the smart versions of the switch with Bluetooth as I have another Victron Smart device in that vicinity (Victron Orion 30 amp Dc-Dc charger) and the Bluetooth signal does not dependably reach the cockpit area. The good news is the parasitic amp draw dropped down to about one amp hour or less. So that is great! It was above 3 amp hours before the upgrade. Thanks again Rocketman3! One caveat is that the old salesman switch is not usable to turn the BP 65’s on/off. So at present they are activated all the time. That seems to be fine. I was hoping to still be able to use the salesman switch to turn off the power to the lighting, etc. when not on the coach. The Victron BP-65’s require a two wire switch to interrupt the 12 volt signal control wire. I tried to use the salesman switch purple wire as the main ground for the BP-65’s, but they did not like that and showed an E1 error code message. The salesman switch purple wire is a ground connection switch. On my 2002 Signature it shows about 100 ohms of resistance when activated. So it is not a good ground. At the end of the day, if I want to use the BP-65’s as a switch, I will need to run a new two wire connection to the salesman switch at the dash. I will do that at a later date… On to the next project-repair or replacing the ignition switch. Thanks to everyone for their insights…. John J

Thanks for that.

Got caught up in the weekend so haven't had a chance to get back to my project. In addition to the holiday, it was our 50th wedding anniversary-busy busy and no coach work... I did disconnect that jumper wire situation in the FRB. That solved the issue with power at the solenoid output when the solenoid was off. Now that salesman solenoid is acting the way it should. Thanks Ivan K. I decided to go with two of the Victron BP- 65's to replace the two salesman solenoids. Thanks Rocketman3 for PB65 tip and, wamcneil for your insight and drawings!. Yes I was referring to a daily amp draw of 30 amp hours and I do have a good clamp on meter for testing. The Victron Bp 65's arrived yesterday so hopefully I can get back to the project and get the old salesman solenoids replaced with new Bp65's today or tomorrow. I have a question for Rocketman3 concerning hooking up the Victron BP 65. I am assuming that the ground (negative) wire on the BP 65 is going to purple salesman switch wire to provide the ground connection for operation. I this how you configured the switch? More to follow. John J 2002 Signature

Ivan K-I think I might have cracked the situation with the second solenoid's output 2 ga. wire being energized. I was looking in my FR Bay and noticed there is a jumper wire between the two input feed posts for the House fuse blocks. It seems to me that they are not supposed to be jumped together like that, and that is why I have current on the output wire of the salesman solenoid. Can any of you verify my thoughts about the jumper. I have enclosed a photo of the inputs to the FR Bay. I'm guessing the previous owner probably jumped these together to get more starting wire capacity for starting the generator as it used to be started by the house batteries. One of the first things I did after getting the coach was to add an addition battery to the chassis bank and change the wiring for the generator over to the chassis batteries. Back to the parasitic amp draw--- Really appreciate the info on the Victron battery BP65 to replace the salesman solenoids. I think I would probably go with the 100 amp version just to have plenty of capacity. I think I would get the non-Bluetooth models and just hook the trigger wire to the existing salesman switch at the dash. The Bluetooth for my Victron Orion 30 amp DC to DC charger is in the back of the coach and it's looses connection when I'm in the front of the coach so its frustrating to uses. Ken-I really like the remote control Christmas tree light switch controller idea. Off to work on the coach now. Thank you and All The Best, JJ John J Signature 40

Thanks you guys for your replies. I have removed all the fuses one at a time in the front run bay and house fuse panel in my search finding no difference. I am considering using the Blue Seas ACR switch once I finish figure whats going on with the second salesman switch solenoid output wire that currently has no apparent function.

Ivan K.-thanks for you information-It is interesting to hear about your .7amp draw when the main battery is on and the salesman switch off. That's about the same as my 2002 Signature. It is .7 amps sometimes and the goes to one amp other times. I think that's probably a normal situation with my coach. In my testing, I found a strange situation with one of the salesman solenoids' output connection. The 2ga red wire that is connected to its output side has a constant connection to the house battery, regardless if the solenoid is on or off. I originally thought this was a feed to the front run bay. I temporally disconnected this 2ga red wire from that solenoid output side and found that has had no effect on any circuits. I can not figure out what it is for. I traced it's power source, but not its connection to a 2ga red wire in the battery compartment that comes of the main house battery through an automatic circuit breaker that is connected before the main house battery cut-off switch. ( I've enclosed a photo for the source in the battery bay) This must be the source for the circuits that are not effected by the main house battery cut-off switch. To complete my testing I removed the red 2ga wire from the automatic circuit breaker and this disconnected the suspect 2ga wire from the salesman switch and also disabled the operation of the bedroom slide. Do you have any insight to whats going on there? JJ John J 2002 Signature 40 I have had my Signature for about 6 month and it's turned out to be more of a fixer upper than I was expecting... That said, it has resulted in putting in a lot of time getting an understand of how all the systems work. I enjoy the challenge and still have a ton of questions Thanks you guys for your replies. I have removed all the fuses one at a time in the front run bay and house fuse panel in my search finding no difference. I am considering using the Blue Seas ACR switch once I finish figure whats going on with the second salesman switch solenoid output wire that currently has no apparent function.

I am trying to get my 2002 Signature coach to be as 12 volt energy efficient as possible. Since I recently installed a Samsung RF18 residential fridge I need more 12 volt power. So I did a major electrical system upgrade replacing the original 3000 watt Trace inverter inverter and lead acid batteries with 600 AH of LifeP04 batteries, Victron 3000 watt inverter, a Victron BMV Smart battery monitor, and a Victron 30 amp DC To Dc charger. I also have 800 watts of solar power. The system is working great but if the sun doesn't shine I have to run the generator more than I like when we are not staying in a campground with power. The coach has always been drawing around 30 amps per day from the house batteries when the House mains switch is turned off. That seems like a lot of power loss to me and I'm not sure where it is going. Is this is norm? What could be causing this? Could this be the smoke detector and a propane detector at work? The chassis batteries seem to have about a half amp draw as well. The security system, basement door solenoid locking system and the Trip Tech system have never worked since I purchased the coach. No basement lights on! The house amp draw increases to over four amps an hour when I turn on the salesman switch, and that's before anything that it controls is turned on. So when using the coach there is approximately a 42 amp draw per day before any of the other systems start drawing from the batteries. The Inverter is off. I realize there are two solenoids that the salesman switch activates in the rear high current bay. I measured about a two amp draw from them alone. I have tried bypassing these two solenoids and still have a couple of amps drain. Is there another type of relay that I could use to eliminate the continuous amp draw of the solenoids? I like the convenience of the salesman switch. I'm looking for suggestions on what others have done to decrease their parasitic amp draw. Thanks, JJ John J 2002 Monaco Signature 40

I just had another look at my coach and it must have had a Brakemaster system once upon a time as there is an air hookup at the hitch and I think there may even be an indicator light on the dash. However, the Ford Fiesta TOAD is the big barrier for that system...No room under hood for the break away cylinder. Might be able to mount it under the drivers seat...but it would be a job! I have to many other projects going as we try to get ready for our departure on June 1st. So its looking like a RVIBrake or a Patriot3. Wish I could find a good pre-owned one.

Wow! Thanks for all the advice from you all ! After doing a lot of studying of your advice and reading up on the various systems, I am hoping to find a used RVIBrake 2 or a buy a new RVI 3Brake system. That seems to be the easiest system from an installation standpoint. My coach does have an air connection in the hitch area similar to the one used in the Brakemaster system. I haven't checked to see if it is actually hooked up to the air brakes. However my toad is a very small Ford Fiesta. Finding a place to install the the components of the Brakemaster under the hood would be a nightmare. Thanks Again. JJ. 2002 Monaco Signature

I'm looking for recommendations. I need to purchase a TOAD braking system for my 2017 Ford Fiesta. I would like a system that I would be able to install myself and be easily moved to another TOAD when needed. My coach is a 2002 Monaco Signature 40 with a Blue Ox Tow bar. Thanks, JJ John J 2002 Monaco Signature 40

I had a leak one time after I filled up. What I found was the rubber gasket on the fuel fill cap was missing. Where I had parked was not level and the fuel was dripping out the fill pipe. Hope your problem is as simple as mine. JJ John J 2002 Monaco Signature

Good News! Jake Brake Problem Solved. I found a bad butt connector in my Jake brake wiring. It was a small red wire buried in the bundle under the drivers arm rest. I just came back from a test drive and my Jake brake now works like it should. It was a good learning experience. I tested the engine brake relay and the cruise control relay in the FRB in the process. Each checked out Ok. Now that the wiring problem was connected the cruise control relay in the FRB clicks when you activate the foot switch. I did change out the foot switch for good measure. The old one did pass current but it had about 18 ohms of resistance compared to the new one which had zero resistance when activated. I found one on Ebay for about $20.00. Thanks to all that replied with suggestions, etc. JJ John J 2002 Monaco Signature

Hello Frank. Thanks for your help. I do have the wiring diagram for the 2002 Signature and can share it if needed. I have been studying it. I have not been able to identify where some of the components and relays are that the drawing refers to and where the signals are all going. I am pretty savy with electronic installations and computer repairs, but I am not able to understand the Monaco drawings and the previous mention volagecreadings at the foot switch and the hi/lo switch. I need some experienced help. When I picked up my coach from the Cummins shop in Ft. Myers the service manager was not available to answer the question about testing the jake brake solenoids with the Insite program. My bill says “Hook up Insite No faults, troubleshoot engine brakes inop on the oem side”. I’m not sure if that means the actually tested the two solenoids under the valve cover. I have been trying to get the answer. The assistant manager was a not helpful and had no information about the work performed except what was written on the ridiculously hugh bill. He said I would have to call and ask the manager the following day. I have made at least 8 calls and left voice messages and sent an email for the manager-but no response to date. It’s been about 10 days since I left the shop. At this point I can not recommend doing business with them. I have taken several photos of the pages of the manual that reference the engine brake relays, switches, etc. I would appreciate your advice on what to look for. Thanks, John, J. Monaco Signature 2002

I just got my 2002 signature with ISM 500 back from the Cummins shop. I had requested they repair my jake brake system which has never worked since I purchased the coach. They said the problem was OEM electrical and would not work on it. So I need help. My Signature has the foot switch and arm rest hi/lo switch. I check the foot switch and it is passing 12v. I have the arm rest apart so can see all the wiring. The hi/lo switch is connected and has a voltage reading of 9.5v all the time-its there even when the key switch is off. The foot switch has no effect on the hi/lo switch. That’s where I am…

I made a newbie discovery. After several hours of trouble shooting yesterday, I found I had to have the ignition key on to make the ride height valves work. So the valve that I was trying to adjust works. In the next few days when time and weather permits I will have another go at getting the coach adjusted. Wow! What a way waste time-but that’s what I signed up for- to be a coach mechanic. I’m learning a-lot. Thanks to you all for your advice. “I’ll be back” JJ

The passenger side rear ride-height control valve does not seem to be working correctly on my 2002 Signature 40 and needs to be replaced. When at full pressure I tried moving it up and down and it only made a small air pressure pssst...and did not raise/lower the coach. I have the new valve. Before I start the project I am looking to get some step by step advice on the replacement procedure and adjustment. I know the ride height for my 2002 Signature 40 is 9" Assuming I have the coach up on ramps and properly blocked for safety, I understand I need to drain the air pressure out of the system before removing the valve. I'm not sure how to do this other than using the dump valve on the HWH control panel. Am I correct in thinking that there is still reserve air in the system at this point for the brakes after using the HWH dump control? How do I remove the remaining air pressure from the tanks? Is this as simple as opening the water drain petcocks on the bottom of the front and rear air tanks? Once I have the old one out what's the proper way to get the coach ride height adjusted? Any info will be much appreciated. Thanks, JJ

Mike, You should not need change the shunt setting on you Xantrex Inverter. I previously had the ,Trace (Xantrex) 3012 with the RC7. I left the inverter shunt setting at the default when I installed the Victron BMV712 Smart Battrery monitor which includes a shunt. It worked fine with the Trace (Xantrex) 3012. I just finished a major upgrade of the electrical system on my 2002 Signature by replacing the Trace inverter with the Victron Multiplus II 12/3000 120-50/2 120volt inverter charger along with a Victron VE Bus Smart Dongle, Victron MK3 USB interface, and the Victron Orion 30 amp DC to Dc charger. I also replaced my lead acid golf cart batteries with 2-300 amp LifeP04 batteries. It was a big job but well worth the effort. All The Best, JJ

Our positive thoughts and prayers are with you both! JJ & Roxanne

Bill B2 & Jim C, Much appreciation for the manuals. I had not been able to locate it. My generator is on a slide. This helps out a lot. I sure couldn't see the fuel filter when I did the oil change. I'm going to have another look today. Getting at the belt will not be fun as it's on the back side of the slide out as you know. I'll have to get under the coach to get at the back side. I did have the top off and took off a half million of the screws and then replaced them when I did the other aforementioned maintenance. Looks like I will have to go for the full million to get the job done! Thanks for your insight, JJ

I changed the oil, filter and the air filter on my Onan 12.5kw Spec B generator today. It has 4400 hrs approximately. My new to me coach is a 2002 Monaco Signature 40. Unfortunately there were no maintenance records available when I purchased the coach. Since the Onan is a SpecB model I assume it is not the original. I was wanting to change the fuel filter and belt. After removing the top panels as well as the side door, I could not find a fuel filter. Does it have one or is it using a feed from the Cummins ISL 500 fuel filtering system? I could see the belt and could barley touch it from the top access. It’s in really bad shape -very cracked. I’m hoping some of you have done this belt replacement before and can give me advice on how to access the belt to change it out and get the tension adjusted correctly. Thank you, JJ

My 2002 Signature backup camera uses the shield as the ground. The combination of the red and the shield powered up the camera. Not sure if this is the situation on your 2004 Knight. All the Best, JJ