BradHend

Is it a very fast chatter noise?

Not being rude, but what’s the point of calling Coachnet in when you have clearly found the source of the oil leak?

Don’t need the hose, but looks like you have a nice setup there sir.   👍

How was that to wire up into the steering column and back to the switches?

What exactly does ‘all the lights’ consist of?

14 minutes ago, Donflem said:

Wow really? I was thinking of eBay but a little scared of used. I already bit the  bullet and ordered everything. 🥵🤯$2200. I’m going to have a Mudflap made that says MONEY PIT!!!!

Can you get two made? (Mudflaps). 🤑

- Click the three lines, top right. 
- Click browse in the menu that comes up. 
- Click downloads in the next menu that comes up. 
- This will bring you to the ‘Downloads’ page.  
- Click the ‘Category:  All’ button and select ‘Electrical Systems’. 
- This will bring you to the Electrical Systems’ page. 
- Click the ‘Sub-Category’ button and select ‘Wiring Diagrams’. 
- You are know able to find and select the wiring diagram you are looking for.  

 

Get a stone and clean the commutator best you can.  Get new brushes, seat them and put it back together, load test it.  Call it good.  Check brush wear pattern after. 
That one brush is pretty worn out for being replaced all at the same time.  Might be worth throwing an amp meter on each of the mains during a normal day and see if you can balance the system out a bit by moving breakers around.  That is if they were replaced in sets though.

The one you found on Amazon is not compatible.  
This one is however:

https://www.flightsystems.com/56-5961-00

Check your brushes and slip rings too.  

I also noticed you said you changed your commutator brushes.  Have a look to make sure they are making full contact with the comm and that the comm is in relatively good condition.  Check slip rings too.  Commutator should be a light chocolate brown color and not pitted or burned. There should not be any heavy sparking where the brush and commutator touch when it’s running. a little under heavy load is normal and unavoidable really. 
On the old motor/generator sets on elevators brush/commutator maintenance is extremely important. Lots of erratic behavior can happen pretty quick if those two items are overlooked.  
I’ve also found that new brushes either have no contour, or are not the correct contour, hence the importance of ensuring new brushes are seated properly.

Does that make sense in your situation?
I would definitely shed some load and see if that stops the shut down.  
Otherwise could be a host of issues from minor to major unfortunately. 
Id be starting with the load shedding, taking some voltage measurements, checking every connection you can (while powered down), including the twist-locks. 
 

Press the stop button when the three flashes are on so it will flash the two digit error code and confirm your findings with the coolant. 

Let us know what the second level fault code is.  It’s only two digits. 

It’s up there.   Same boat as you, I just haven’t been able to access it without dropping the tank.  Terrible location. 
Contemplated cutting in an access hole at one point.  😂

Beauty coach sir.   Best of luck with the sale!

Very nice and good luck with the sale!  👍

When you upgraded the coach lights to LED, did you have to switch around the wiring to make them work? I did.  
Have you taken any measures with a volt meter at your trailer plug?

What I’m getting at is you might have your ground/light wires backwards as a result…polarity sensitive. 
 

Re-read your reply….missed that coach was still incandescent.  
Have you bench tested that strip light? If it’s a cheap Amazon one, they do some weird things and some you need that special adapter for signal/brake lights. 

Still curious what voltage readings you get at trailer plug for brake/signal/running. 

Did you change over to LED?

Disregard the Onan stuff.  Just Cummins. 

In case anyone is not aware, Cummins has a 20% off sale going on right now with promo code ‘CELEBRATE20’.  Only on from March 18-22  

I for sure will be getting a new serpentine belt, onan generator maintenance kit and maybe some spare fuel filters among other things.  
 

Safe travels everyone!

On my Cayman I found a spare 12v wire in the rats nest under the drivers left side control station (under transmission selection and all the rocker switches).  I purchased a few extra rocker switches, an in-line fuse holder and a USB power supply from Amazon, controlled by the new rocker switches in place of the blank fillers.  I then cut a notch for the wiring in the cover material of the control station and routed the cable to my tablet and chargers on the left side of the dash.   Tablet is for Bluefire, and then a USB female end for whatever else I may need, like for a phone charger or GPS. I’ll be heading over to the Moho this aft and will grab a couple pics to post if you’d like. 

You are able to make the spring stronger by adding more tension.  I did both of mine for the same reason. Also sprayed some dry graphite lube in the tube to help things move. 

Not sure but could I ask why you are replacing them?

Yup.  I’d be checking for a leak if you have soot visible. Manifold, flanges and fittings, even all the CAC plumbing. Check it all.  
If you say it’s only visible on the access cover, I’d be paying most attention to the manifold and EGR plumbing. 
I spent a small fortune on that side of my rig after a failure in the East Coast of Canada. Wasn’t pretty, or cheap.  
 

I will second what @Tom Cherry stated about the 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape.  Schindler even uses that stuff to secure the interior panelling and trim pieces of their elevators to the structural shell of the cab.  
It is a very versatile product widely used in many industries and will bond to a multitude of materials. 

Hoooly.  Hopefully nothing serious. Need to get those codes. Good luck and keep us posted. 

Are you able to get the codes with the flashing dash lights? I’m able to get the sequence flash codes on my ‘05 Cayman, so surely you will be able to as well.  
Procedure is in the manual.