CLIFF918

Ok then, one of the switches light the brake lights the other one cancels the cruse control. I just went through this as my cruse would not cancel when brake was applied. In my case the previous owner had a brake controller installed and hooked it up to the cruse cancel wire (labeled brake). Easy mistake. In my 2002 Diplomat the two switches are behind a plastic cover above and to the right of the generator. You can remove the plastic cover if not sealed with too much goop. In my case it has about two times as much black foam as needed so I cut a door in the plastic cover to access the switches for testing. Sealed it back up with gorella tape. there is a connector for each switch behind the box so you can disconnect and test the switch.

Do your brake lights light when stepping on the brake?

I am currently in VT. No signs of any shortage at $6.39/gal and no signs of shortages on trip here from Florida last week, but had to use both pockets. That being said the price of regular went up .20 over the weekend here to $4.79/Gal, Diesel remained the same for now.

Cruise control issue is solved. Someone had installed a brake control for a toad or trailer and tied into the wrong brake signal line. I am using the Blue Ox/patriot and don’t need the brake control unit so I disconnected it…problem solved and tested good.

Hey Bob here is another option for the future. Amazon has an assortment of thermal fuses available: https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Circuit-Temperature-Thermal-Assortment/dp/B0719DHV9P/ref=sxin_25_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-dGhlcm1hbCBmdXNl-ac_d_rm_rm_rm&crid=LWNW4GJ7XSZ&cv_ct_cx=thermal+fuse&keywords=thermal+fuse&pd_rd_i=B0719DHV9P&pd_rd_r=1ba352d1-bd63-4517-8dc0-ecabb95453d7&pd_rd_w=G3OPK&pd_rd_wg=wXj3n&pf_rd_p=7de181be-756e-4582-93e5-e9bf36281b5f&pf_rd_r=0BFXJDKTXRQJDMT40D29&psc=1&qid=1651310873&sprefix=Thermal+fuse%2Caps%2C130&sr=1-1-7d9bfb42-6e38-4445-b604-42cab39e191b

I use the patriot 3 system which basically does the same as RV Break 3. Both are quality systems

$1946.00 8 Koni shocks installed $804.00 for Safe T Plus steering stabilizer $139.00 install Prices vary a lot from place to place find a good shop that works on over the road big trucks. The chassis of our motorhomes are about the same as a big truck so most truck shops are equipped to work on motorhomes as well. You should be able to find one near to where you live. If your ever in Vermont I would recommend, R.R. CHARLEBOIS, INC. | MILTON, VT | Freightliner Trucks Cliff

Jim, OK, I think I might have the cruise problem fixed, will tell for sure on the road test next week. I couldn't let it get the best of me so I went back at it this morning and it was starring me in the face for several days, duh. In the process of tracing the brake and cruse signal paths from the treadle switches back to the brain is when I discovered the splice in the line. The previous owner had a brake controller installed for his toad, I don't need this for my Ranger I have the Blue OX so I have never used it and just kind of overlooked it. The wire they spliced into is the cruse cancel signal, which will supply a path for the Draw tight controller to operate, but I am thinking that it might interfere with the cruise cancel operation, Just a theory of mine but sounds logical. The brake controller should have been spliced into the BRAKE signal form the other switch, the one that lights the red lights. So now it (Draw Tight Controller) is gone away and hopefully all is fixed. Cliff

Brian, Took it to a shop that works on Big trucks as well as Motorhomes. They did a complete inspection/road test including the trailing arm bushings which they said had been known to cause the wandering, all were good. 8 new Koni shocks, front end alignment and had a Safe-T-plus steering stabilizer installed. Drives like a car now Cliff

Jim, I have both of them and I have a good wire tracer. At this point I am going to leave it as is since we will be traveling Sept1 from Florida to Vermont for the summer I just will not use the cruise. I will have more time once we get to our destination. Thanks for all your help Cliff

Jim, I was able to OHM out both switches and with the aid of the wife pressing on the brake, both switches operate correctly so that rules out the switches. I have the diagram but was not aware of the ctrl 5 to clear it up. I am going there now. Cliff

Rather then tear out the whole black box I made a door. You are right the switches are buried in there. There are 2 white wires going to each switch 2 are marked Brake and return and the other 2 are not readable so I am assuming they are the cruse cancel. I am going to OHM out the switches to see if that is the issue as soon as I get wife to step on brake for me.

Have not had a chance to do that yet, it's on my to do list. Thanks Cliff

This brake pedal PDF looks exactly like what I have, However no location for the switches and I have looked (almost) everywhere. I am done for tonight will have another look in the morning. I really appreciate all the help. Cliff

My coach has the black plastic cover it is sealed around all the edges with black foam. I will look at it closer. thanks Cliff

Thanks for the info Dave. I am still fighting this disengage the cruse control issue along with some other minor issues before we leave Titusville for VT in May. If I can't fix the cruse release issue I will just not use it. I can not find the pressure switches you talk about looked all over the area around the brake pedal and firewall. There are no switches on or about the Bendix brake assembly at all. The print I have shows them in the schematic just doesn't show the location. My brake lights work just can not disengage the cruse with the brake. If the switches are behind the dash then they are going to stay there I refuse to go into that rat's nest. Cliff

No it seems that someone used some dielectric grease on it some time ago I un plugged and re set it looks ok though. Thanks Gary for noticing it

OK I looked further at the wiring and you are right the wires are all marked just like an aircraft wiring harness. The two wires are marked CRUISE on/off on one and CRUSE on, on the mating connector. I am wondering now if this is the cause of my cruse not canceling when I use the brake. I have not used the cruse because of this. Cliff

That's why I ask first I'm sure someone has found this in the past. Both connectors are mates and the wire is in the same pin on both halves. I will go have a closer look at the wires. Thanks

In getting ready for our trip I found a connector that looks like it should be connected. anyone know what this is and should it be connected together? Is this some kind of test connector? both connectors have 1 white wire only 2002 Monaco Diplomat Thanks in advance Cliff

Try Glenn's in Melbourne. They did a fantastic job on my 2002 Diplomat, Ask for Todd 321-723-0751 Cliff Loos

Thanks I'll look for it. Cliff

I have looked at all the threads on the tank and sensor and can not seem to find an answer to my problem. My low coolant warning light stays on all the time. I have replaced the aged plastic surge tank with a new aluminum tank and Ford sensor. Wired the Ford sensor leads together with the one wire coming from who knows where that was on the original sensor. I still have a nice bright low coolant light at all times. Here is what I have done so far; Unplugged the sensor and shorted the connector to ground---No change Left the connector unplugged completely---No change I can't seem to find where this sensor wire goes to in any of the prints. Does it go directly to the ECU? if so anyone know what pin it comes into the ECU on? The previous owner (original owner) told me that it had not worked for several years he just kept track of the temp gauge and checked the level when he fueled up. Any ideas out there? 2002 Monaco Diplomat ISC 8.3 Cliff

Johnny; I have a similar, if not the same, problem. My low coolant light has been on since I bought the coach and previous (original) owner said it has been on for years with no issues. I don't like things that don't work and should, especially warning lights. The surge tank was in questionable condition, not leaking yet, so I purchased and installed a new aluminum tank and new sensor. I also replaced the two 5/16 lines that go into the top of the tank they were not in good condition at all. All other rubber lines, hoses are good. The low coolant light is still on @#$#. I see where you replaced a Barometric sensor and your light went out. I have a 2002 Diplomat with the ISC 8.3. If this is the same where do I look for the barometric sensor?? Thanks in advance Cliff

Nice folks to do business with. Shipped out the same day ordered should be here in Florida on Friday. Thanks for the link!!