Craggar

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...we are on the SAME PAGE.  It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW.  We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"

NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.

There were TWO styles of Switches.  One is the SIMPLE.  It has nothing but TWO STUDS.  OK...my GS can handle that concept.

BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch.  There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff".  Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK.  Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE.  They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off.  AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.

Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG.... NOW...  for the Windsor Owners..  That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.

THE MORAL.  Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch.  if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch.  IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires.  OTHERWISE...issues.

BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.

BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack.  In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM.  The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.

That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....

Let us see your handiwork...

I hear you and mine is only the two terminal but that could be from the previous owner who did some funky stuff with the electrical I’ve been learning. 
 I will probably do this next week and will post a picture but like I said it may be the wrong one in there now. 

38 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Matt may have the correct switch.  OR NOT.  Monaco, that long ago, used some really exotic and funky switches.  Folks have gone down this path before.  What you want, I assume, is a switch that will fit exactly in the mounting holes and also meet the AMPS.  

You really NEED to post a picture.  I can think of about 10 different designs that I have seen.  SOME were especially made with brackets and such and you have NO room to move or build a plate or fabricate a mount without adding a high current stud and then putting in a custom jumper cable.

The MOST popular ones and the trusted are BLUE Seas.  They look like the Marinco....if you googled the PN, that takes you to Amazon and "MAYBE IT WILL WORK".  Amazon has an AMAZING data base.  You can put in a part number and their search identifies it as a "Battery Cutoff"...  BUT sometimes they don't carry it or is no longer in manufacturing....then BINGO, they do a generic search for Battery Cut Off switches and you get a plethora of "HEY....they are what we have..."

SO..  the MAIN THING.  

Pictures of WHAT your HAVE.  
Do you have a PN on the SWITCH

Is there a BRAND NAME on the Switch.  MANY of the older switches, like yours were no very well labeled...and even when folks pulled them OUT...they couldn't find them.  We have helped folks and found the old brands.  That is fuzzy, but I spent a lot of time in the OEM catalog, once we figured out WHO MADE it...and the switch was NO LONGER made...but there was a NEW model.  Now these were the SPECIALTY mounts.  Mounted like a tank and had a long handle.

SO...without the above info, those of us that help find STUFF are stymied...  

HOPEFULLY some one will chime IN.  I edited the TITLE to alert folks that BROWSE as to the YEAR....

Hope this explanation makes sense...

Post the specs and will then be able to chase.  I tried the usual  1998 Switch.  then 97 and 99... then WINDSOR CUTOFF....lots of info...but no cigar.

BOTTOM LINE....WHY do you want to replace.  There is a VERY SIMPLE and easy method to test the switches.  Then you will know if they are going bad and you need to or if they are fine.  

State the reason and if they are failing or you think so...then the procedure will be posted.

Thanks

 Yes your post makes perfect sense and the reason I want to replace mine is I can't shut them off so they are always on and have been since I've owned it.  Mine looks like the Moroso one below and I have one left over from my drag racing days so I just wanted to know if it could handle the amps. I'm not worried about being the exact same switch just that they will handle the amps and mount the same way. 

https://www.amazon.ca/Moroso-74101-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B000CON4MA/ref=asc_df_B000CON4MA/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293019627766&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=111014011401714124&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20113&hvtargid=pla-571598931021&psc=1&mcid=d0275baff4313d778cb375bbb78c31e6

 

Thanks Matt, mine is the old style which I'm going to stay with just for ease of replacing but the specs on that one should be all I need to know to get the ones I need. 

I'm sure I saw a post or two on this but couldn't find anything while doing a search. I want to replace both my battery cutoff switches but can't find the specs for amps. Anyone know what they should be?

Fix your exhaust leak before doing anything else and see what that does.

It really sucks when you pay good money to a mechanic and that happens. I've had a couple small(not so costly) things happen where I paid for something that was done wrong or not at all and that was a shop where I knew the owner. Now I have a mobile guy if I can't do it by myself or just want the extra set of hands and eyes. He's priced right and we work pretty good together. 

If you have a good set of booster cables you should be able to jump it with your truck, just let them charge for 15 or 20 mins first. I have jumped 930 loaders with my pickup a few times.

1 minute ago, Mooner said:

This is a diesel RV, not a gas.   So the suggestion we have been given with the exception of Jim W will not work on this Unit.

 

I think we all know it's a diesel and the suggestions given are all for diesel engines. I'm pretty sure you have the same throttle system on yours as mine.

Common problem with the older ones is the King Control. That controls your throttle, cruise and high idle. A member here came up with a kit to convert to air because King Controls in no longer in business. I don't remember his name off hand but I can find it for you if he doesn't chime in on this post. Mine hasn't failed yet but I keep a 50' paracord in the m/h in case it does and have bought the kit to convert to air. Some have fixed minor issues with them but for the most part I don't think there is much you can do.

You know it’s a ground for sure because it worked for it when you tried it. It does say Aux. on it as well so I would guess it was a ground for an option that your m/h didn’t get.

They're pretty cheap to buy so I would just replace with a new one.  I don't know the part # for the one you have but I would guess it would be a common one at a truck supply place.

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

Our 1997 Windsor had the fuse panel inside the center console.  The center console pulled out and the fuses were inside.  

Good luck!

That's where it is in my 98 as well. Took me awhile to find late one night. 

1 hour ago, whaley96raw said:

I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman. I am a relative newbie.

If I am parked with the slide outs out, and the stabilizers down, should I be able to start the Cummins and let it warm up?

Mine has been sitting since Nov as it does every year and I won't be starting it for at least another month.

4 hours ago, Dave Shackelford said:

I have a 2005 ISL400 Camelot40pdq. My boost gauge reads a range is 5 to 15 lbs while driving on level roads. It does go up a little when I get into the mountains. My question is this a normal reading for my rig ?

thanks,

Dave

Guess I misread the question but when you say it goes up a little in the mountains, it should go up a fair bit on the hills.

Sounds low to me.

9 minutes ago, av8ter said:

Thank you. To me TIG is just like gas welding with a throttle. I think the main thing is rhythm and a really good hood so you can see the weld but also see more of the part so you can follow a good straight line. Cheaper hoods are too dark a little ways from the puddle so you can't see where you're going. Kinda like the OEM headlights on these Monacos! 😅 

Lol I hear you on the headlights for sure and being able to see where you're going both on the road and welding. I do have a good hood and always thought I had good hand eye coordination until I got the foot involved, which explains why I was never that good at playing the drums too. 

Very nice job, I’m a pretty good welder when it comes to arc or mig but not so much with tig. I guess I should have practiced more on hen I had the equipment. 

Part it out is what I would do as well. 

7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

How's this one for a fixer upper.... $500 apparently

If it was close to me I'd buy it for 500 then figure out what to do with it. lol

22 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

yep... seems like a pretty useless link.  It appears to be a private group.

Never said it was a link, it was just to show where it was on FB. If someone was interested it would be easy enough for them to join.

RIP Ray

17 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

thank you.. now I know what I'll be doing over Xmas 😉

I wish I could trade jobs with you, the wife decided she wants a whole new kitchen and the cabinets showed up on Wednesday. Now it a mad scramble to get it all done before the end of today.

 Luckily she has some good connections with contractors that like her and it looks like the countertop will be going on the new cabinets today and all I’ll have left is the tiles for the backsplash to finish before family starts showing up tomorrow. I keep telling her I’m getting too old for this kind of stuff but she doesn’t seem to agree. Lol

I doubt the shop would recommend them if there could be an issue and I’m sure the reason why they are so much cheaper is the demand for them compared to what the m/h came with. If it were me I wouldn’t be concerned about them especially knowing they are rated for a heavier application.

Wow, I’m surprised that the tech didn’t know better.