Craggar

37 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

I don't see why it should be a secret.
What harm can someone do by looking up info on a coach they're interested in buying?

I agree, myself and another guy were both just trying to learn something. I didn't know the coach number gave different info that the vin.# would. 

20 hours ago, Paul J A said:

Try the various options mentioned with your coach  # and VIN# and see what information you receive.

Assuming it was you that asked for in on FB, why be so vague about it? Others are trying to learn including myself.

He said it tells him when it was manufactured. Makes more sense that it's for what you guys said, to pull the build sheet.

Can anyone tell my if there is a reason why someone would ask what the coach number by the door is when someone is selling their unit?

1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

I've used a bunch of SS braided AN hose, and yes, I've shed some blood installing those fittings. 😱
I've decided to go with nylon braided hose for everything but fuel lines on my new race car.

The nylon hose is still a bit of overkill for a coach, but it does work very well.

The biggest thing that affects fuel lines on an older coach is the horrible low-sulphur fuel that's mandated these days.
It's also hard on gaskets and o-rings.  I had to replace all the o-rings on my Ford Superduty after they changed the fuel.

Why not for the fuel lines on your car? 

I use to use braided steel hose alot when I had my shop but switched over to this  https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Pro-Flo-350-Series-Black-Nylon-Braided-Hose/761335/10002/-1 when it came out and my hands were much happier. It's much easier to work with and still has a nylon braided cover to help protect it. You can buy pretty much whatever hose and you need and no special tools needed to make up a line. Steel braided is more resistant to wearing through but I never had an issue using this hose in a bunch of different applications.

4 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Sounds like they screwed up.  I'd definitely follow up on that.

I did follow up with Minder and they said they had issues with USPS going to Can. so they only use FedX now and dealing with FedX is like talking to a wall. 😞  I should have known better when I saw they shipped with FedX, it's the same as using UPS for stuff coming to Canada. Funny thing is if I bought it from Amazon it would have be cheaper in the end becuase of the free shipping.

Heads up for Canadians, I just recieved an additional bill from FedX for the ones I ordered which was $161.00. Also when I went to the site and put it in my cart it knew I was from Canada because they added $40. to ship here instead of using USPS but no where does it show the prices are in US. Pretty expensive in the end compared to the $100.00 ones I have been using that actually work just as good from what I can tell. The only reason I went for this was the sale and I wanted to have the sensors on my toad as well. I should have known that FedX would charge a stupid amount for brokerage and handling fees but I don't think they even did it right. I've done a lot of custom clearing in the past and if no one in Canada makes the same product there is no duty on the item. I don't know of a company that makes TPMS in Canada but I guess there could be.

51 minutes ago, Rocketman3 said:

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  From what I can tell, the fabricators don’t make a replacement for the Volvo football tanks.
 

There was a different tank that was discontinued that they make - the big difference is how they bolt on - I would have to weld new brackets to use the nice alum tanks.

i decided to go with @veraken idea and just ordered a new tank from Amazon. I also got some JB WELD and added it all around the cap area. That’s where they have been leaking - I figure some extra support for the plastic might be helpful.

If this fix doesn’t work - I will get the alum custom ones and figure out the welding brackets.

Thanks for all the help.

Give it a spray with that Permatex sealant I posted above. Mine hasn't leaked since I sprayed it 1 1/2 years ago. If nothing else it's handy have along just in case it does start leaking on the road. 

I'm sure Charles will see this and chime in, he has come up with a kit that gives you all the pieces you can't buy off the shelf to convert it to air. Mine hasn't failed yet but I bought the kit so if it does all I would need to do is buy the pedal and air cylinder which are common parts.

I live in Alberta and have always stored my m/h's outside with no issues. Never have a problem with my batteries either for whatever reason even when it's not plugged in. This year I'm leaving it plugged in and put a trickle charger on the chasis battery. I don't think the sun does too much damage in the cold winters we get either, mine is parked beside my shop and doesn't get much sun at all so that helps. I never start it during the winter either, even if we get a warm spell I won't start it until spring. Only thing I do is go in and check the traps for mice at least once a week.

Hope it sells quick for you, it's a nice looking coach.

My ignition key never comes out. If I lose the key to unlock the door I have one hidden outside. If I lose any of the rest I have spares inside. 

Not a replacement but when mine starting leaking a couple years ago I used this Permatex 82099 Spray Sealant, 9 oz. to stop it and hasn't leaked since. 

4 hours ago, 2002 Beaver said:

Unfortunately these will not meet my gvwr. But thank you for pitting that out there. I appreciate it!

I seen some reviews online about tires cracking etc. but if yours are 8 years old, those sound great to me. I might be looking back into them.  The story i heard was online from someone in arizona which is where i am too. The heat here kills tires quick

Ok, before I bought the m/h it spent winters in Az and Texas but like I said they still look great just too old now.

22 hours ago, 2004beaver said:

Hello everyone, I currently have a 2004 beaver santiam 40 ft. Currently and according to the plate on coach it is designed for 275/70/22.5 size tires. Toyo and a few other manufacturers that I want to go with, don’t make that tire size. Have any of you with same tire size went up to say a 295/75/22.5 and been fine? Or are there some other tires that you guys would recommend in that size? The only tire ive found that I can get is the roadmaster tire made by cooper tires, but i have read some bad reviews online, so looking for any real life advice here as I am new to the class A world. 

thank you in advance for and advice and I look forward to meeting everyone. 

What issues have you heard about the Roadmasters? I’m replacing my rears that are 8 years old and actually still look fine. Can’t say for sure how many miles on them since they came with the MH but I put on over 30k in 4 years.

 I was planning on replacing them with the same but if there are issues with them I may not.

3 hours ago, vito.a said:

Did you have the fuel filters changed at Speedco?  If so, you probably had air in the fuel line after servicing.  Hopefully by cycling the key you have removed all the air.  

It sounds like the start problem uncovered a poor connection or bad solenoid.  I would clean all the engine start battery cables, especially the one that attaches to the frame.  If that doesn't fix it, then change the solenoid.  

Pretty sure his doesn't work that way with the key. At least mine doesn't but there is a primer near the front on the pass side of the block.

If it is the fuel shut off like Veraken mentioned turn the key to the run position and look to see if the solenoid has pulled up. If not that's your problem but it would still crank so it sure sounds like the starter solenoid to me. 

At those prices I'd consider buying them but no way would I have paid over 600 for them. Shipping is a little out to lunch though, 40.00 and 2-4 weeks to ship here to Can.

I did the same thing after I fought with it for a day to get it to move after being seized for quite awhile.

Very nice unit and if that was in Canadian dollars I might have a chance of affording it. lol

Mine is old but it's right where the manifold is for the waterlines which is next to the wet bay.

21 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I have no experience with them however in reading their Q&A they require their fee up front prior to listing your coach.

I sold my Windsor using POP RV which takes a 10% commission on the sale price AFTER the sale. Plus they come and do everything for you. All you have to do is empty out the coach and make it presentable for photos, video and showing.

Do you get to preview the ad before they list it? I'm sure it's just some of the people that are taking the pictures for them but some of the ones I saw were annoying, lots of pictures but the same one over and over sometimes the description is a couple lines. Just wondering if that's Pops or some owners don't really care.

51 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

I wasn't trying to be negative or put down Roadmaster tires they are probably fine tires.   As far as I know, Cooper has a good reputation and for the most part Goodyear does except for their G 670 RV tires which by the way I had no problems with.

All good, I will just do some digging before I replace the fronts to be sure.

45 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Roadmaster tires didn't ring a bell with me so I googled them.  It appears to me they are a Cooper Tire which is a Goodyear company.

Tire companies are a web of names & manufacturing sites around the world.  Difficult to know who is who.

 

Oh, I didn’t know that. I hadn’t really looked into it and was trusting what the po used since he had a few trucks in his company. 
 Maybe I wont put them on the front now but will be using them again on the rears for sure.  Thanks for looking it up for me.