Craggar

Since I've had the motorhome pretty much the trans didn't like upshifting from 4th to 5th and sometimes 5th to 6th. It only did it once in awhile and always when under full throttle but if I let of the throttle it would shift and be fine. Yesterday I took it out for test drive after I had the injection pump of to fix a leak on the throttle shaft and had the upshift problem happening 3 times in a half hour drive. 

 I do have the King Controls still and know it controls the TPS so could that be my issue or does anyone have any other ideas? Also right now I don't have the throttle cable adjusted for full throttle since I was doing it by myself but it's close and I don't think that should be the issue. 

Welcome Greg, I had to look at my paperwork, I thought I might have the 98 the previous owner of yours traded in but mine was from Okanagan RV though. You picked a well built unit and came to the place where most of the knowledgeable people are for the Monaco's.

1 hour ago, burghere66 said:

Thanks to you all for the insight you gave me on my drive shaft problem.  I just spoke with the shop that did the work and they said to bring it in on Monday.  As several of you have noted it appears that in the process of lubricating the universal joint the high pressure gun has blown out the blue seal.   We'll see what they have to say.

Housby Trucks is a large truck dealer that sells and services a variety of trucks and heavy duty construction equipment.  Their Quick Lube is a separate facility on their site that offers drive through oil, lube and quick maintenance services for over the road tractors and trailers.  Each year they are rated as the top truck service shop in the city.  For the last 14 years I used them for my Windsor with no problems.  My recent oil/lube cost, including the generator was $383.09, about 10% higher than last year.

Wish I could get it done close to that price around here. I took mine in once to a shop I know the owner and it was 1,000. which is still a fair deal for around here and he did give it once over for me. Also it was from greasing the slip not the U joint that caused it to pop out.

It does look like just the plug popped out which probably happen from too much grease. Best way (for me anyway and I have done lots) to fix it is pull the shaft right out, That way you can check everything while you have it out. As for the Tiger tool (if I remember right) that Ivan used I rarely ever used one. If copper coat was used during assembly which it should have been a hammer is the easiest way. Usually a couple good wacks on the ear with a 2 lbs. hammer will do it and you won't do any damage to the shaft.   The blue cap is a press fit and you can buy them sepereately if you need too.

If you pull it out just make sure make the slip so you keep it in phase, and if you replace the ujoints line up the grease zerks so that both can be greased at the same time. As for price the last time I did a 1710 driveline was 25 years ago and Spicer Ujoints were 29.00 Cdn. so couldn't even guess now.

Good catch and good decision.

I was pretty nieve about diesel pushers until I bought the one I have now, but after finding and fixing the crap the previous owner did I have learned alot. When I buy my next one I don't think an exprienced inspector will do a better job going over then what I will be able to do.

3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

And the credit goes to Richard, I had no input on this subject 🙂

Lol whoops, that was who I meant, don't know why I said Ivan instead.

Thanks guys, you're right Ivan I was using the wrong search term but when I try what it should be nothing comes up local.  Now that I know what it's called I should be able to find it somewhere local tomorrow. 

While waiting on my injection pump I'm cleaning up some other things on my to do list. One being the air intake hose that goes to the air filter. It's about a foot long and 7" in dia., everywhere I look for it I find 6" or 8".

 This is what I was going to give a try.

https://floraflex.com/CAD/10-inline-duct-fan-fif-102503

Mine is a 98 so it might be different but I don't think so. Here is the part Donaldson #P537448. You should be able to pull it up and check the dimensions.

Just wondering if anyone with a P7100 has a picture of the throttle linkage at the pump? I'm taking my pump off now to fix a leak on the throttle shaft and know that the way the linkage is now has been Macgyvered in the past somewhere in it's life and would like to fix it while I have things apart. I've searched online and found everything boat engines to military trucks but nothing for a motorhome.

I think we all agree that it was 100% the m/h drivers fault but the truck driver could have avoided the accident by just backing off and letting the m/h in. I know if it was me I'd rather let him in than watch someone destroy their m/h and possibly get serious injuries or worse.

Sad when the truck driver just let it happen. Sure the rv shouldn't have done what he did but all the truck driver had to do was lift for a second and let the rv in too avoid what happened.  

48 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:

That is true. However companies with a brand to protect are much more diligent in their efforts to insure quality when using off shore manufactured components. A product coming out of an offshore factory run by Intel, Ford, Cummins, for example, does not resemble a knock off produced by "Asian photocopy  criminals" working out of slum factories with little more than a post office box for an address and selling on Amazon and Ebay. Intel for example typically rejected 3 times as many chips produced in Chinese factories as its American counterparts so that those chips did not make it into their supply chain. The last I heard the problem was getting worse and not better. Cummins and others do not risk warranty claims on expensive engines by using the junk filters and electronics that are available online to anyone who wants to

 

Well from my experience the quality has got much better. I worked for a company that has what you can call a no name brand of gears that are 1/2 the price of the top name brands which they are a distributor for as well. They don't get any more warranty on those gears then they do on the name brands and this isn't a small company, they have several branches across Canada. I bought a crane a few years ago from China at Con Expo that came with a Cummins engine, Rockwell diffs and many other top name made parts with complete warranty and the filters on the Cummins engine were not from Cummins. I also bought an oil pan for my 8.3 from China because Cummins wanted a ridiculous amount for the same thing. The oil pan which came with gasket and bolts was as good a quality as what was on my engine and cost less then the gasket did from Cummins if I remember right. 

 It's not all slum factories over there either, we have all helped them get to be where they are now by buying their products. The company that made the crane I bought has a huge part of the European and North American market with some products and is a state of the art manufacturing facility. Part of the reason they got where they are with cranes was because they use to make the booms for Leibherr cranes, not copy them. The same goes for their excavators and other equipment they make, they built many parts for well known brand names then decided to just make them for their own line. 

My point was that it's pretty hard to know where parts are from when used to build and assemble things over here. The way China is now I would love not to have to buy anything that has something in it that came from there but thats not realistic. If I was trying to make a point it wouldn't be over a part in an alternator possibly coming from there. 

 I don't want to make this a debate or anything because like I don't like where things are going with China anymore than anyone else but I don't know what the answer is to changing it either.

4 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

I don't know why everyone is rebuilding altermators

I know that new ones are expensive but they last a long time. Some of the rebuilders use off shore parts.

Almost everything we own has off shore parts including the new one probably. 

If you don't get an answer here I would post on IRV2 as well, I know there are at least a couple on there that are in the area and would know. If you are west of Ottawa near Arnprior there is a truck stop called Antrim Truck Center with a full service truck service center that if nothing else could steer you in the right direction. Maybe give them a call.

It was interesting thanks for posting it.

I can go at least 5 miles at highway speed in 80+ weather before mine would start to overheat. I know because I had closed the valve that controls the fan by mistake once. If I were you I would try something on the outside first that you could take off easily if it doesn't work like cardboard taped on. I'm guessing the tires are kicking up a lot of the sand as well though.

3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

My parking area is level . . . . . or so I thought.  I shimmed the concrete under the tires with 2x12's so when I come home and park I can simply let the air out and level the coach without using the jacks.  Both the concrete and shim stacks are marked for precise locating.  One shim stack is 4.5" high with a large block to keep from rolling too far (and off the stack). 

Just a thought.

- bob

If your parking area is level then there is no way one wheel should be off the ground when leveling the m/h.

1 hour ago, Agpopp said:

Good question. I will look into it. 

Called REV today and no help there. They have no parts, or prints. 

3 options I see....find a similar shape pipe from a classic or custom car outfitter, make my own by buying exhaust bends, or go to an exhaust shop and have one bent. I'd just need to install a weld on bung for the 1 fitting.  

Also, I posted this in the wrong cooling section and I'm sorry! 

I made my own pipes but any muffler shop can make them as per sample for you.

Sorry to hear your loss, I want another so bad but it was so hard losing the last one that I don't know if I want to go through it again. 

37 minutes ago, vito.a said:

We have quite a few racers towing stacker trailers with Monaco Executives and Signatures as well as Holiday Rambler Navigators. 

Same when I was still racing, had a couple friends pulling stackers and no issues.

12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Has anyone ever had one go bad?  I don't recall hearing of one.

On mine the one going to the thermostat housing was about to start leaking just above the 90 degree bend where the clamp secured it to the bracket. The rest of the pipe was solid and I probably wouldn't have noticed the bend when I did if I didn't have to move it to get the oil pan off.

Stainless looks better and will last longer but is costly and time consuming if you have to get someone to make them for you. I made my own out of mandrel bends and .095 wall tubing. I figured if the originals lasted almost 25 years being mild steel then the ones I made should out last the motorhome.

An fittings come in steel as well as aluminum.