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Craggar

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Posts posted by Craggar

  1. I'm in the club too, bought this one from an old guy who wasn't able to drive it anymore who seemed pretty honest and I didn't checked it over as good as I should have so now I'm fixing the things he failed to tell me about that were obviously there before I bought it. I have the P7100 fuel pump and the steering box leak to fix this spring still but the rest is pretty much done. I was able to go on a couple good trips so far with minor issues though including a cross Canada one. I think by the time a fix what's left of what he didn't tell me about I'll be at 10G's roughly.  

  2. 4 hours ago, Russell said:

    On the interwebs. 

    Presidents are dudes until we elect a female and I put that so that anyone with a tendancy to get their undies in a wad didn't read either name.  🙂  Trying to remain civil and weave in a little humor during such divisive times. 

    Got link to that interweb site? We all know that you can get whatever answer you want on the interwebs.

    • Haha 1
  3. 4 hours ago, Russell said:

    I just read that the current dude in charge is getting ready to add to the diesel reserves at $80 per barrell. Same piece talked about how the blocked the last dude in charge when he tried to add at $24 per barrell. Most of the real information doesn't hit the news. You have to go and dig. I urge everyone to please vote next week. 

    Where did you read that? 

  4. I got over 20 years out of my original steel tubes and just replaced them this fall before a cross country trip. Stainless is nice but steel was good enough for me since I don't think the m/h has another 20 years left in it. If you do that you can get a local shop probably to do the bends and bungs for you or if you weld you can just buy the bends and bungs and do it yourself. It will be much cheaper and turn around should be pretty quick as well.

  5. Unfortunately it is the same in every industry, very few young trades people are more than just parts  changers these days. And, if you're a small business and find a good one the chances of keeping them are almost nil. The large companies can offer so much more usually that it's hard for them to say no when offered a job. Then when they go there the big companies don't see as much profit in trouble shooting so they are taught to be parts changers. That was one of the reasons I shut my shop down and moved on to something else.

       

    • Like 1
  6. You can bend the spring and put wedges in between the coils until you get enough length to put it back on then just lower the jack and they will fall out. At least that's how I have done when I replaced the springs in a previous m/h. I'd be looking for why it came off though, usually they are tough to get off unless they are really wore out.

    • Like 1
  7. 4 hours ago, thomasgibbens said:

    This hydraulic system is used for the levelers and I was advised to remove the power connection to the pump to keep from burning up the motor because there is no fluid in it, which I did. We are using air levelers only. I will check with other hydraulic companies before heading to Decatur. Thanks. 
    Tom Gibbens

    ’15 Dynasty 

    Makes much more sense now. When you first said it was at the rear of the coach I think everyone probably assumed it was the engine driven pump which feeds the fan motor and power steering. I think most coaches have the pump and tank for leveling at the front. You will be fine by unplugging it.

  8. If you have a grill on the drivers rear it's a side rad and from the pictures I saw online of 2015 Dynasty I think you have a side rad. The fittings I have used are done by hand with wrenches and still could be impossible to do without taking the line off if there isn't enough room.  

     As far as taking it to Decatur, is it not leaking and did Monaco say that no damage would be done by driving it there?

    I would still see if you can find a mobile hyd. guy who can probably fix it cheaper and quicker then driving it to Decatur.

    Edit: Because I reread your first post where they said what it was for. I'm guessing Cummins put a cap on the fitting at the pump so you don't lose anymore fluid.

     

  9. 1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

    They make a field fit hydraulic fitting, it is a a two piece.  You screw the ferrule onto the hose and the the inner piece screws in and locks the hose onto the fitting.  We use to use these all the time but they aren't as available now.  You might contact a local hydraulic shop to see if they can source.  If the hose is tight and being stretched I'd add a piece.  Take the short piece to the hydraulic shop so they can identify the size. 

    Here's a Youtube video showing an example of what I'm talking about

     

    I've used Aeroquip fittings like those. You can order the from Summit or Jegs to name a couple places.  A little tough doing the one in place on the vehicle sometimes but definitely doable. 

    • Like 1
  10. Like everyone says, I think it's your hyd. for the fan and power steering but either again I agree that it should be doable to make an extension hose to repair it. As for your remark about them saying they should all be replaced I find that hard to believe being it's a 2015. Mine are just at that point now and are pushing 25 years old. 

    Either find a small truck repair shop who are willing to work on just about anything or better yet either a mobile hyd guy or shop.

  11. 29 minutes ago, We2dynasty said:

    Dave, as I indicated, we were able to do the brake job on the rear of our Dynasty for less than $400.00.  That included the cost of new American made Webb drums, the shoes and the spring/ roller kits.  If there is a Utility Trailer dealer in your area, it might be the best place to source your parts.  I did all the labor myself.  At 72 years of age, the drums were much heavier than when I was 50.  I used a motorcycle jack to raise and lower the drums. They weighed about 155 lbs each.  Good luck on your project. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

    Kudos on you for doing it yourself at 72, I just did my rear drums and shoes a couple months ago. Last year the price was 1/2 of what it was this for the parts. I was quoted $700.CDN parts and labor last year and it cost me almost $1,200. CDN this year. 

  12. 2 hours ago, snowman said:

    I am going to see if someone can help me, I found this awesome site and cannot believe the mountain of information, anyway I just recently purchased a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and the head lights are faded so bad, as bad as they are I dont think a polishing kit from a auto parts store will bring them back, so I am wanting to know if anyone has replaced the assemblies and where did you get them, I have seen a lot of people say they are the ford type but they are not. 

    Thanks 

    I didn't take any pictures but mine were really bad and I bought a cheap kit from Amazon just to give it a try before spending the money on new ones. I was totally surprised how well they turned out. For the cost and little time it takes might be worth trying it first.

  13. I don't envy you having to take it out and am no help with that process. But like klcdenver said I would try something to patch it first. Permatex makes a spray as well that might be worth looking into. I used it on an oil pan and was surprised how well it worked. I almost didn't change the pan because of it but had the new one so I did.

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