Craggar

Fix your exhaust leak before doing anything else and see what that does.

It really sucks when you pay good money to a mechanic and that happens. I've had a couple small(not so costly) things happen where I paid for something that was done wrong or not at all and that was a shop where I knew the owner. Now I have a mobile guy if I can't do it by myself or just want the extra set of hands and eyes. He's priced right and we work pretty good together. 

If you have a good set of booster cables you should be able to jump it with your truck, just let them charge for 15 or 20 mins first. I have jumped 930 loaders with my pickup a few times.

1 minute ago, Mooner said:

This is a diesel RV, not a gas.   So the suggestion we have been given with the exception of Jim W will not work on this Unit.

 

I think we all know it's a diesel and the suggestions given are all for diesel engines. I'm pretty sure you have the same throttle system on yours as mine.

Common problem with the older ones is the King Control. That controls your throttle, cruise and high idle. A member here came up with a kit to convert to air because King Controls in no longer in business. I don't remember his name off hand but I can find it for you if he doesn't chime in on this post. Mine hasn't failed yet but I keep a 50' paracord in the m/h in case it does and have bought the kit to convert to air. Some have fixed minor issues with them but for the most part I don't think there is much you can do.

You know it’s a ground for sure because it worked for it when you tried it. It does say Aux. on it as well so I would guess it was a ground for an option that your m/h didn’t get.

They're pretty cheap to buy so I would just replace with a new one.  I don't know the part # for the one you have but I would guess it would be a common one at a truck supply place.

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

Our 1997 Windsor had the fuse panel inside the center console.  The center console pulled out and the fuses were inside.  

Good luck!

That's where it is in my 98 as well. Took me awhile to find late one night. 

1 hour ago, whaley96raw said:

I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman. I am a relative newbie.

If I am parked with the slide outs out, and the stabilizers down, should I be able to start the Cummins and let it warm up?

Mine has been sitting since Nov as it does every year and I won't be starting it for at least another month.

4 hours ago, Dave Shackelford said:

I have a 2005 ISL400 Camelot40pdq. My boost gauge reads a range is 5 to 15 lbs while driving on level roads. It does go up a little when I get into the mountains. My question is this a normal reading for my rig ?

thanks,

Dave

Guess I misread the question but when you say it goes up a little in the mountains, it should go up a fair bit on the hills.

Sounds low to me.

9 minutes ago, av8ter said:

Thank you. To me TIG is just like gas welding with a throttle. I think the main thing is rhythm and a really good hood so you can see the weld but also see more of the part so you can follow a good straight line. Cheaper hoods are too dark a little ways from the puddle so you can't see where you're going. Kinda like the OEM headlights on these Monacos! 😅 

Lol I hear you on the headlights for sure and being able to see where you're going both on the road and welding. I do have a good hood and always thought I had good hand eye coordination until I got the foot involved, which explains why I was never that good at playing the drums too. 

Very nice job, I’m a pretty good welder when it comes to arc or mig but not so much with tig. I guess I should have practiced more on hen I had the equipment. 

Part it out is what I would do as well. 

7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

How's this one for a fixer upper.... $500 apparently

If it was close to me I'd buy it for 500 then figure out what to do with it. lol

22 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

yep... seems like a pretty useless link.  It appears to be a private group.

Never said it was a link, it was just to show where it was on FB. If someone was interested it would be easy enough for them to join.

RIP Ray

17 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

thank you.. now I know what I'll be doing over Xmas 😉

I wish I could trade jobs with you, the wife decided she wants a whole new kitchen and the cabinets showed up on Wednesday. Now it a mad scramble to get it all done before the end of today.

 Luckily she has some good connections with contractors that like her and it looks like the countertop will be going on the new cabinets today and all I’ll have left is the tiles for the backsplash to finish before family starts showing up tomorrow. I keep telling her I’m getting too old for this kind of stuff but she doesn’t seem to agree. Lol

I doubt the shop would recommend them if there could be an issue and I’m sure the reason why they are so much cheaper is the demand for them compared to what the m/h came with. If it were me I wouldn’t be concerned about them especially knowing they are rated for a heavier application.

Wow, I’m surprised that the tech didn’t know better. 

37 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

I don't see why it should be a secret.
What harm can someone do by looking up info on a coach they're interested in buying?

I agree, myself and another guy were both just trying to learn something. I didn't know the coach number gave different info that the vin.# would. 

20 hours ago, Paul J A said:

Try the various options mentioned with your coach  # and VIN# and see what information you receive.

Assuming it was you that asked for in on FB, why be so vague about it? Others are trying to learn including myself.

He said it tells him when it was manufactured. Makes more sense that it's for what you guys said, to pull the build sheet.

Can anyone tell my if there is a reason why someone would ask what the coach number by the door is when someone is selling their unit?