JacobA

Are you using OEM plugs, they are very cheap so most go for a “better or different plug” lots of issues posted about misfires resulting in codes. Maybe worth a try I got mine from rock auto for under 20 bucks for all 16 and got two extras just in case I got a damaged or bad one. I have a 08 commander 5.7 same engine I believe also drops out 4 cylinders. I didn’t use OEM coil packs as there doesn’t seem to be real picky with those.

I saw the kits but I’m on the road and the wire I had with me. Also some posts said that the larger defrost tabs still didn’t work. I like the idea that the wire will heat down the drain and just not above the drain hole.

Has anyone tried the “defrost fix by adding a wire in the drain”? We have a rf197 and it was already installed when we bought the Rv, it’s been really good for 9 years with the exception of a defrost issue. Apparently it’s a known issue regardless of Rv or home use. From time to time we would have water under the drawers in the fridge, sometimes frozen others just wet. A couple weeks ago Rv was plugged in at home and we herd the fan in the fridge making noise so we unplugged it and after it defrosted we cleaned the water that was in the fridge again and it worked fine. Currently on a trip and the fridge wouldn’t cool past 56 for two days so I decided to remove the fridge inside panel to see if the fan failed. After hours of defrost time and a blow dryer I got it off and it was completely froze up. The last thing to clear or defrost was the drain. So it kinda made sense that when it froze up that it would lead into the fridge instead of down the drain causing it to freeze over and over. So I found a post from a appliance repair company that said for years he has been hanging a piece of 6” 12/2 ground wire loosely over the heater tube and down the drain hole to keep it clear. Seems to make sense that if the drain stays frozen the water either drains into the fridge or just keeps freezing up the coils and fan.We are five more days into the trip and holding at 36. Time will tell.

Thanks for all of the input and, Gary, for the awesome leg work. After lots of prodding with agents, I have the same answers Gary got. Interested to see how Coachnet morphs into this full coverage game as well

We are looking at adding Coachnet, but in reading some topics out here regarding seriously high tow bills after being in an accident and finding CN does not cover any towing if RV was in an accident. Went to our motorhome policy with Foremost and found they only cover $250 for towing expenses - no other options to increase that amount. What are some of you finding with other insurance companies regarding towing your RV after an accident?

I have these on order from Amazon so I have not tried them yet but research on them looks very promising. Basically a butt connector with no crimping and you can take them back apart should you make a mistake and reusable. Like earlier mentioned you would want to stagger them but everything has is issues. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004D0FEMM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_8?smid=A1NYLSOGAMTIF4&psc=1

Maybe unfair but I used Velocity in Canton NC for an air leak, they worked on it in 10 min sat in the bay for 45 minutes. They have a minimum 225.00 hour for RVs charged for two hours plus 45.00 in shop fees (rag and spray soap) stayed that the leaking valve was special to the Rv quoted 500.00 to replace plus labor to send someone out to look for parts and shop fees. I would get it out of there. Cost me to know to never use them again. Charging a professional rate for professional service no problem but they are looking for a blank check In my opinion. BTW parts were off the shelf found local with some help from this site. going to make ramps and try replacing it myself.

Agreed, I believe there is a bulkhead fitting as well. Found a source in Asheville that appears to have everything that I need in stock. Totally agree that I might be able to clean it up, trim the lines and reinstall but I would prefer to have new ones on hand before I disassemble it. If it works great if not I have the parts or spares. Good learning experience either way.

RBRODDER, thanks for the reply. I was missing the forest for the trees. Somehow I was thinking that it was one unit. Now that you sent that pic it appears the threaded portion would be connected to a second one with threads and that connected or tube/pipe if you will would go through the mounting bracket. Am I understanding that correctly? It makes sense otherwise it couldn’t mount the same. Velocity truck center kinda planted the seed that it was special to Monaco and I bought in.

I was at Velocity truck center this morning and they are the ones that found the leak. I asked the same question and they said it was the fitting so reseating the lines wouldn’t work. They also didn’t have a replacement but I could leave it and they would see what could be found. I chose not to. They could be wrong but if I could find a replacement I would rather just replace it then if they were wrong I have an emergency spare. I did some searching online a don’t see any like it.

Can anybody help identify this pass through air fitting. It’s on a Camelot (RR8S) rear Non tag. One line comes from pressure side in then one line goes to ride height control valve and the other two go to the bags, one to each. The fitting passes through a mounting plate and is held on with a nut. My hope is I can find one without removing it first so the RV isn’t down in case I have trouble finding it. Thanks as always!

Johnny I came across there site and did see the rebuild service, great info. Going to shop around and then maybe get the old one torn down for a back up. Still considering the wax valve if the controller keep going up from what others have paid. $1000 or so for R&R but $2000 plus might be time to move on. Thanks for the info!

Thanks again!

James thanks for all the info. Looks like exactly what I need. I will check with them when they open after the 4th! James, when you ordered it did you get the entire assembly or just the head or electronic part. Thanks Sorry if I sent this twice James did that part come as a complete unit or just the electric head / top portion. Thanks

Gary, yes it’s a side mount radiator. James, I called Berendson this morning but probably closes for the 4th. I will give the a call Wednesday.