Gweedo

I upgraded to the newer Sanicon and I have a new 1” spare  hose never used from my old one. If you can use it let me know.   Free. 

On 4/15/2024 at 9:33 PM, timaz996 said:

Sorry I'm don't anything about the Brake buddy setup. Someone here should.

Sorry I have an Even Brake system  not a brake buddy,  I think I pulled that name out of my A**!!

Thank you for the responses guys, I am gonna go out this morning and see what it looks like and I’ll post it.  
 

if I can I’ll eliminate the AFO system by getting rid of the Tee fitting n put in a straight fitting like suggested by Ivan. 
 

so I went out to check this morning, no lean.  And I realize the front slide out was open about 10”   I closed it n both side fronts measure the same    
I only lost 3lbs of air last night, but 23lbs from its fullest   
 

so today I will make sure I can replace the fitting n eliminate the AFO   
 

thank you everyone for your input   

Ok gotcha. 

Why would brakes drag. I know nothing about the system   Im thinking of replacing the exact fitting leaving the option for the toad brakes.  If not I can do like Ivan suggested n get a straight fitting .

is there  an issue with this system? Should I stick with the brake buddy, haven’t used it in the new toad yet.  Hate cause it damage.  Reliable or no?  

14 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

If you don't have a 'fitting shop' near you, you can get DOT rated compression fittings on Amazon or elsewhere since it appears to be a brake line. Easier to find if you are eliminating the small line and looking for a straight coupler. 

Thanks. We have a few truck parts places up here. 

4 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Short answer…no way to know.  With the AFO Manual, you have the inatructions for install..reverse…and uninstall.  As stated, you NEVER know if it was done correctly, but take off what was added….

BTW, You may have a leaky valve.  Until you. Identify what ain’t needed…a guess

Maybe an anomaly, not with my luck.  Still need to fix the leaks, looks simple enough.  I am wondering if they sell compression fitting instead of the push on.  Much prefer compression.   

Just now, Ivan K said:

The rod and valve in your pic is part of ride hight system and if that valve was leaking, it would be dropping both front corners.

Gotch ya thanks.  

Thank you!  

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Do you have hydraulic jacks?

Yes

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Do you have hydraulic jacks?

I know I should know this but I assume it has the leveling. Rr8r. The right front was dipping the most.   See photo, I’m assuming this is the leveling rod

I know I should know this but I assume it has the leveling. Rr8r. The right front was dipping the most.   See photo, I’m assuming this is the leveling rod

Okay good to know.   I sprayed the air bag pretty good n didn’t notice a leak.  Anyone know if the leveling valve can cause this? Or is there something else I should be looking at.    I’m going run out to the shop n c if anything has happened in the last few hours

So I went out. So far the RF is same at 40”. Lf is 41”.  R r is 41” n Lr is 42”.  I have lost 19lbs of air I’m sure because of the leaky valves    I guess I’ll see if it’s sagging in the morning.     All tires pressures are equal.   

Okay got back under. One line feeds an outlet at the hitch, that comes from the top of the unit.   
 

I’ll attach some more pics.  But from what you guys are saying it appears I have the AFO.   
 

I have always lost air over time but not like today.     So far it’s been a few hours n the right front is still 1” lower than left side but, it hasn’t gone down in the past hour.   
 

question…can the AFO cause the lean like that?   I just lubed everything n I’m pretty certain I didn’t mess with air lines.  

 one of the lines from the tank goes into a tee n one of the big green lines.  The other green lines disappears n looks like it headed to the front.  I’m assuming it feeds the front tank because I see a green line at the tank 

Thnx. I’m  the second owner.  Coach has sat for cpl hours now, the r-front is 1” lower than the left.   
 

I’ll see what I can see regarding the AFO system, I know what it is but I know nothing about it.   I’ll look in my folder but don’t recall seeing anything about the AFO.   

I don’t have the brake system on the toad. Just the brake buddy 

Good morning, I came out this morning n found the rig leaning heavy to the right.    First time for me. 
 

I aired it up n checked for leaks with soap.  Didn’t find any on the pass front.  I checked the rear and found a couple fittings with minor leaks, nevertheless they leak. 
 

one come from a valve on a  small black tank sitting up high. The other looks like a tee with two green hoses.  Will these green hoses unscrew from the fittings without damaging the hose?  
 

the fitting with the red hose is not the problem , it’s above it. 
 

I’ve attached a couple picks.  I’m surprised I didn’t see anything up front, I’ll give it some time and see what happens.    
 

thnx

6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter.  Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side.  See parts page.

I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. 

 

 

Inverter parts.pdf 6.79 kB · 2 downloads

Thank you!  

Thanks for the info.  It is the 8k I should have said that but it still early lol.  Attached is the box I referenced on if I can pressure wash it or not.  
 

The rig is kept inside my shop. Maybe I’ll wait until next winter to do the belt and thermostat.   Need to finish all the other yearly services before next month’s n looks for an air leak, it’s going to zero after a week or so of sitting. 
 

thanks again hombres. 

Don glad you found the issue, we too desert boondock with the grand kids and I'd hate to deal with that issue.   

Since this a generator conversation I just have a couple questions of should I or not.  I did a service on my Gen yesterday, while underneath it I noticed a square box that has what appears to be cooling fins just below the air intake.  It's dirty and the air nozzle wouldn't blow it off clean.  Can I use a pressure washer on that?   

Also I'm thinking it's time as a PM to flush coolant and replace thermostat, not sure what intervals this should be done but I haven't done it in the 8-years we've owned it, had 676 hours on it and the coolant is still bright and clean. 

Is there a belt of some sort that needs replacing as well?

Is is wise to blow things on the inside out with the air nozzle? 

Thanks, 

Problem solved.  So the fluorescent light causing the back feed has been replaced with led tubes. I Bypassed the ballasts. No more back feed    I replaced most of the smaller led lights as well. 

Clean all the connections and use dialectic grease on them  

Good morning, it all finished.   I will attach several pics of what I did.  First the new one would not fit where the old one sat, much wider n so only had one spot.  (Dry fit first).

 I ran the power wire out n up the frame n tied to existing wire looms.  In the battery compartment I allowed extra wire so the batt tray can be pulled out.   I ran the ground just out the compartment in front of the rear tire, all wire was in cased in plastic loom n then completely tapped. I ran automotive grommets in the steel where the looms exit,   I siliconed each exit point n painted the ground. 
I now place my hose where the old macerater was.    
On the hose I installed the protective cover n heat shrunk them to each fitting (macerater n dump connector)    I got this ideas off you tube.  After sliding on protective cover I slid a 2” heat shrink covering the protective cover n the fitting.  The shrink has a glue inside so should hold everything tight.  TIP: before shrinking put the hose on the attachments so the hose doesn’t shrink n let it cool before removing).  I stretched the hose n added 12” of protective cover to allow for bends. 

The instructions are great for wiring super simple. I used a 7mm wrench to insert the wire into the plastic casing it allows you to easily slide the wire inside. I used heat shrink butt connectors n the covered them with heat shrink   I used yellow tape on the outside to mark where I have a butt connector in the casing

I bolted the macerater to the floor, cut a small circle in the underneath foam n then painted the bolts.  

“Steven’P.  I didn’t have to remove the panel as mine sat below.  If you look at the pick of my panel to the left of the faucet you will see two cuts. Looks like the PO used a dremel n made an access to replace the water hose. Good idea if that’s all you’re replacing.  Otherwise the panel looks intimidating but it’s just a matter of loosening the facia screws. 
hopefully the pics will make sense of things.   
Any questions just ask away.   Unfortunately for me my water leak fix didn’t work on my drain so I’ll try one more thing, if it doesn’t work I’ll put a diverted tray in.  I couldn’t get the tank fitting off without removing the tank.  Dripping about 2 tablespoons last night.  One day if I feel ambitious enough I’ll remove the tank but for now I’ll live with it, too many other priorities. 

So I had the same problem with it taking too long.  I watched a video on the new turbo n it took less than 2 minutes to empty the tank.  Looking inside the old one, lots of hair (I wondered where mine went) definitely slows them down.  Others have taken them apart and clean them.  
I got the new one on sale and after reading the reviews n seeing the real time test I was sold. 
I hated waiting forever to empty, I could finish a cup of coffee.  Best thing is no messing with hose just push the button. 
I hope to be finished tomorrow, I noticed a leak from the water tank drain union.  When I blew out the compartment water came out the other side. 
apparently it has been dripping extremely slowly, I’m hoping the water I blew is residual.  Drying everything up tonight n cross my fingers in the morning that it’s not the tank.  
I had to fix that before installing the new macerater. At least all the wiring is finished, that was fun.      
I’ll update soon with pics as well 

I sure will!!

In doing some research it appears the wire can be used

I ordered up some mesh for the hose. Got the old macerator out very easy, but he new one can only go in one place.     
 

anyone happen to know electrical wire.  The batt wire is a 10 awg 600v mtv or mtw.   I have 10 gauge 600v mtw or  thhn    It’s not quite as flexible.   Will this work?   I bought this before I opened the box.  
 

both r 105 degrees dry or 75 degrees wet macerator is oil resistant.  Just don’t know the difference in mtw n awm   Difference I see is the one I bought has thhn n awm not mtw