Gweedo

Wonder if they’re using a bypass system. I had the fs2500 on my pick up. Really only needed to change filters, a lot of fleets use the system to extend their intervals.   

I would strongly encourage you to google "why you should change your oil"  you will find numerous articles/reasons why and the damage that will happen to your engine. These engines are way too expensive.  I change my oil and filter and both fuel filters every year regardless of the miles, 1k miles 10k miles doesn't matter.  But that is a decision for you to make.  I would read the manual and follow their recommendations.   

If you decide to change your oil and filter, you may consider using a stiction cleaner.  After reading a few articles on why you should change your oil you'll understand why IMO a stiction cleaner is necessary to use.  

Safe travels!!

Are you saying you went 6 years without changing your oil n filter? 

I pressured washed several months ago, doing it again and checking makes sense.   I keep the cylinder's clean with silicone.  I should have looked when I saw the leaking on the driveway, but I was more concerned to move it off my new driveway.  I assumed it was from the cap because of the amount.  looking the the one valve that appears wetter than the others, I can see wet seepage under it.  I'm assuming these have an o'ring or two.  My thinking is there is a leak causing a loss of pressure to get the jack all the way up.  

Good morning, did a search and couldn't locate a specific match.  Couple trips ago the left rear jack wouldn't retract quite all the way, left about an inch down.  I extended it and then retracted it with my grandson pushing up and it retracted all the way.  Last week when retracting the control pad was going crazy blinking, couldn't start the rig,  after a few on/off with the key it worked normal but the front jack didn't quite retract.  couple up n down and they all seated.  (I have since watched the power gear videos on the system)

So when checking the fluid level I noticed one valve appeared to be leaking and maybe a second, hard to tell with the seepage. So my question is, will this leaky valve cause the above issue?  are these rebuildable or just replace them.  I'm thinking if one goes the others aren't far behind, so I will repair/replace them all.  I have attached a few pics.

Also the cap for the tank has never seated all the way down, threads have always been exposed.  Is this normal, it fits tight but when I parked it at a slight incline on my driveway it leaked fluid out.  I put some Teflon tape on it for a better seal, just need to know if this is normal.  

Thnx

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

So, your reservoir tank DID have the band around it, that you remove to get at the internal filter?

Like Tom, the top of your tank doesn't look like mine. But, my rad fan is hyd driven.

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

So, your reservoir tank DID have the band around it, that you remove to get at the internal filter?

Like Tom, the top of your tank doesn't look like mine. But, my rad fan is hyd driven.

No band, one center bolt with a spring and washer pushing down on the one filter, top pops off.  I don't think the reservoir holds 2=quarts.  it's only 8" tall

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

Even with two hydraulic fans it takes a tank like this to fit 35 quarts. There goes the manual accuracy again.

Holy cow 35 qts.  that's like when I did my trans.   I Purchased 4-gallons @$53, glad I get to take 2-back.  Thinking of doing the TRW, but don't have the time right now, leaving Wednesdays, gotta start looking into those now. 

4 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Holy cow 35 qts.  that's like when I did my trans.   I Purchased 4-gallons @$53, glad I get to take 2-back.  Thinking of doing the TRW, but don't have the time right now, leaving Wednesdays, gotta start looking into those now. 

KLCDenver gave me great info and the amount,  to be honest I thought even having a small reservoir just the length of the lines would take that much.  

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Wonderful write up.  Now, one follow up question.  i have the smaller, single filter reservoir, however your top looks a little different.  That reservoir only holds maybe less than 2 gallons or 7 quarts.  My manual, which I don’t know whether to believe or not, say 35 quarts, initial fill.  OK, NOW there is, 7 gallons in the pump, coolant fan motors. oil cooler, lines, etc.  Hard to fathom.

SO, THE TOTAL for your system, after you drained it, was less than a gallon.  You have a conventional water pump & fan, not hydraulic.  But the steering sector and lines are the same.  

Just to confirm, the 3.5 quarts were for the entire system and not just the reservoir.  Thanks

That is correct, 3.5 quarts give or take a cpl ounces.  I do not have the hydraulic water pump or fan.

Update all finished: 

So I believe it contained hydraulic fluid based on the smell and fell.    I broke loose the two lines at the steering box and allowed it to drain over night.  Then I used air through the return line at the reservoir to blow out residual.  Blew air through pressure side but could not get it to come out the other end, so rather than pushing the limit and not wanting to take a chance on damaging the power steering/seals I elected to flush with trans fluid.   

I re-attached the lines at the steering box, then removed the return line (the smaller of the two) from the bottom of the reservoir and zip tied it to keep it pointed down into a bucket.  Filled reservoir 1/2 way, had a buddy  start the engine for a few seconds and watched the fluid go down to make certain it was the pressure side.  Shut off engine, filled again started engine and kept pouring until the ATF fluid pushed out all the original oil.   Did a few more quarts for good measure.  Filled up the reservoir, installed filter and ran up to temp while checking for leaks.  All is good.   

My system is a smaller reservoir with one filter:  Nelson  84365a  or  Baldwin PT951.  I prefer Nelson because there are at least a 3rd more holes

I used Transynd 668:  Total was 3 1/2 quarts, I flushed the system with 4 quarts of a cheaper brand (not much)  that is compatible with Transynd.

Air pressure:  I used about 30lbs PSI, with a rag over the tip to prevent moisture from entering the system, put a rag at the other end to prevent blast of fluid

After filling I ran up to temp "Before" turn the front wheels side side twice, this helps bleed trapped air.  

Get a friend to assist.

I received a lot of good advice (on the forum and PM) from everyone, took a little from each and I was successful.   Simple DIY just make certain not to run the system dry!  Air is your enemy!!!

Thanks for all of the advice, I really appreciate it! Safe travels..

Lmao

Actually feels n looks more like hydraulic 

Two line from the reservoir lg n small looks like they go to pump the one into steering box n back to reservoir.  Anyone know which is low pressure side.  I have a 50% chance of being right.., lol just don’t want to get blasted.  

Gotta laugh I guess, went back to check manual, one paragraph says filled with 15-40 at the factory very next paragraph say check level and top off with Dextron aft.  

Just now, 96 EVO said:

Sorry, I changed out my transmission.

I was just showing you have choices when it comes to TES-668 spec ATF 😉!

Okay gotcha,  did my trans last year.  thnx

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Just changed out my factory filled Transynd, with a Allison approved 668 spec ATF.

Here's a list of fluids you can chose from, so, you can shop around for the best price!

https://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/approved-fluids/on-highway-fluids

Hey thanks for sending the info.  just picked up 4-gallons of 668.  how much did you use?  

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Just changed out my factory filled Transynd, with a Allison approved 668 spec ATF.

Here's a list of fluids you can chose from, so, you can shop around for the best price!

https://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/approved-fluids/on-highway-fluids

how did you flush yours, I think your system is much larger than mine.

Thnx, I used transynd in my trans n I believe that was #295, I'm seeing 668 now.  Good idea on using less expensive to flush, not sure how much the entire system holds so I will buy a 5-gallon bucket and replace the filter again after flushing.  

I guess I'll go with the 668, it's the same thing but only better now.  

Moderator EDIT

This new tooic was just a “follow up” or what the OP decided to do.  It had to be edited and then merged with the original topic.  

FOR ALL MEMBERS INFORMATION….

PLEASE do not create a NEW TOPIC.  Use the original.  Doing the housekeeping to tie the two topics together so there is one cohesive discussion is cumbersome and creates extra work for the staff.

THANKS

END of EDIT.

…..Good morning, I recently posted a question regarding the type of oil I have in my power steering unit and I received a lot of great info.  However in light of this info and not knowing for certain if I have engine oil or hydraulic oil, and, the fact I added several ounces of oil to the system and possibly contaminating the system, I have decided it's best to transition from oil to AFT just in case.

Tom Cheery furnished a lot of info and Frank McElroy has furnished me with some very good advice on draining and a lot of other important info to consider, thank you Frank and Tom. 

I am wondering if anyone has done the transition, about how much fluid it took, what filter you used and how you drained the system.  

my reservoir is 8" tall with two lines coming off the bottom, I do not see a spin on filter and I have a rear radiator.

Thanks, Guido

I agree with, I only have one filter.  And even the filter looked really good, light shined right through it.  I'm letting the filter drain so I can get a good look at it.  I will do my best to get a definitive answer on which fluid was used.  At the very least I will contact some reputable shops and get their opinion.   Thanx again for the info I'll take all I can get.

27 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....NOW, Here is one question....  and I am flagging our expert in swaps. but FIRST...I think I misunderstood you or perhaps we misunderstood each other. Here is a picture of your reservoir that I lifted from an IRV2 post....using your Nelson PN from your manual.  What I MEANT....  MOST FOLKS PUMP OUT the reservoir and get it EMPTY....then the put in the NEW Filter.....and fill it back up.  The best method is to get the dipstick to the right level (Cold or Hot....).  THEN, you pop the cap.  Measure DOWN from the top to the level.  Pump that sucker out (get a hand pump or a marine oil pump kit that fits on your drill...or a big hose and then, carefully, use it like we used to to steal gas.  LOL.  NOW, that it is empty....put in the NEW filter.  THEN refill to the proper level.  You are Exchanging or removing contaminated oil...  I can't guess but again, maybe the manual was wrong...but it does say...  3.5 Quarts....NOW, I hope that clears up what I was saying about doing the maintenance....  NEXT UP....I am flagging or asking our resident expert on swaps to chime in.....see below...

@vanwill52

This is a 2007 Endeavor....an Elkhart Coach, supposedly the TWIN of the 2007 Diplomats.  It has, supposedly, on a 3.5 QUART capacity of the Hydraulic oil.  That sounds puny.. Maybe the Tech Writer used QUARTS when he mean Gallons.....but WHO KNOWS.  I can't get a read on the capacity from the picture above.  ANYWAY...  I ASSUME that when you have done swaps, that you drained the system and then went back with Dexron II ATF since it has a TRW steering sector now.  Can you elaborate a bit...

@Gweedo  My opinion is still the same.  IF you swap out the unit to TRW, then you use TRANSYND.  That is what the TRW Tech told me that they are using now for their "EXTENDED" warranty or high use units.  The difference in cost of the Transynd (Delvac would be OK), is insignificant....as in if you have a NEW system....then put in the best lubricant...and TRW says they use Transynd or any TES-295.

Just my thoughts....

 

Thanks

I am not swapping out the steering box yet, when I/if I do I will do what is required.    As for the photo that is what I have,  prior to changing the filter I looked at the oil and it looked like new.  Normally because I am annal I would change out all the fluid, but we are leaving and don't have much time.  so I gloved up and replaced just the filter and topped off the fluid cold.  Hope this helps clear things up.  

If it is hydraulic fluid and if the system is 3.5 gallons, I don't think a few ounces of oil will hurt it, at least I hope not.  I don't know if there is something out there that can tell the difference between the two.   

Thnx again

1 hour ago, klcdenver said:

I case you have a sheppard and want to change I have attached the instructions. This procedure works well, I did it about 6 months ago.

Sheppard to TRW swap.pdf 567.18 kB · 0 downloads

That is awesome, thank you!  I very much appreciate everyone's response.  the switch out info couldn't be better.  going to see what I have this morning.  If we decide to keep it (probably will) I will switch it out.  I noticed a bit more sea saw last couple trips.  

4 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

The TRW is adjustable and the Sheppard is not. An easy way to tell the difference is by how the Pitman arm is attached to the steering box. The Sheppard has a large nut on the end of the output shaft and the TRW uses a bolt to clamp the Pitman arm to the output shaft

4 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

The TRW is adjustable and the Sheppard is not. An easy way to tell the difference is by how the Pitman arm is attached to the steering box. The Sheppard has a large nut on the end of the output shaft and the TRW uses a bolt to clamp the Pitman arm to the output shaft

awesome thnx

Thank you guys for the info, now I'm a little more concerned just in case.   I did some research on the vin decoder, it was built in Elkhart,  Tom mentioned a nelson filter which I took out and replaced with a Baldwin filter, the only difference was the nelson had rubber on the endcaps and Baldwin were thinner gasket type material. 

I have the build sheets and nothing states anything about the steering or hydraulic system. Is there a website for this info?  Not a problem if I have to drain the entire system but I need to do it before our trip next week.  If it's oil then I'm good, if not...well you know. 

So now I'm going off where it was built and the info provided by the Rev grp.  I certainly do not to contaminate the system!!!!  Not sure how much the entire system holds, but I am estimating I added 5-6+ ounces of 15-40

TRW steering box, I have seen this mentioned several times, how do I determine what steering system I have. 

 The whole reason behind this endeavor (pardon the pun) was to change the filter I didn't know I had, and I could feel a slight jerking on the wheel, the fluid was down to the add line.  I've owned this for several years so I know it hasn't been changed.   

Thnx

Thnx Tom, I read numerous threads on this, they are all over the board, atf, hydraulic and oil,  which why I called the Rev group.  The person I spoke with furnished me the pdf which calls for 15-40 oil.  Now, when I opened the canister and removed the filter, my first thought was, it's regular oil, and smelled like oil and  that was before Rev grp responded.  One of the tech's there also worked for Roadmaster back then and remembered it being oil.   So I was comfortable toping it off with the 15-40, probably about 5-6 ounces.  I let it run for a bit and no noise or leaks.

Below is the email I received...

According to the attached (see pages 14-15 for the Endeavor) – this would have 15W40 engine oil in the hydraulic fluid reservoir.  I did confirm this with one of our technicians who used to work in the Roadmaster plant back then.

Hopefully that helps!

Best Regards,

 Denise Tucker

Senior Administrative Specialist

REV Recreation Group

PRIOR TO JUNE 2009, THE AMERICAN®, FLEETWOOD®, MONACO®, HOLIDAY RAMBLER®, BEAVER®, SAFARI®, McKENZIE®, AND R-VISION® BRANDS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AND THE ROADMASTER® AND MAGNUM® BRANDS OF CHASSIS WERE OWNED AND MANUFACTURED BY OTHERS. FOR CONVENIENCE, WE MAY OCCASIONALLY PROVIDE PRODUCT BROCHURES OR OTHER INFORMATION ABOUT THESE OLDER PRODUCTS THAT WE ACQUIRED FROM THE FORMER MANUFACTURERS. THESE DOCUMENTS ARE NOT UPDATED, APPROVED, OR MAINTAINED BY REV RECREATION GROUP. THEY MAY CONTAIN MISTAKES OR BE INCOMPLETE.

Rev group got back to me quick, calls for 15-40.  They sent a pdf I’ll attach for all 2007 models with all lube points n maintenance charts. 

2007 Roadmaster Lube Guide.pdf

I appreciate the response.  Now just trying to figure which oil goes in. Definitely not dextron in there.  

Sent an email off to rev group 

Thnx. 

How do I get the lid off??   
 

I’m assuming it just pops up but it’s stuck on pretty good.  
 

I got it off thnx