just for fun

Thank you Frank, I found the schematics and looking for 2013 Endeavor . This site is awesome, what a wealth of info.

Wow Frank ! That is awesome, you are rite about the pics. I really should better document the repairs I've done to share them as you have. Pictures are much more useful and you take good ones. The slider in the sender was stuck so instead of risking having to do it again, $120, done. I am finding all the little things that could most likely be repaired, i'm just replacing and it can get a little expensive. With info like yours it sure makes the repair easy even if I don't have a clue. Thank you. Now do you know how to make the dash gauges light up?

Hi there, I also had to replace my fuel sending unit. It was a ISSPRO unit. Isspro is located in Portland, OR. I could not find the sending unit number anywhere and the REV group was no help. I had to wiggle it out of the tank enough and spin it around to see a number and go from there. The unit is a long as the tank is deep ( at least on mine) so it was like a carnival game to pull it up, spin it, see the number. I found the number, googled it, found ISSPRO, called em, $120. My tank runs from side to side. All I did was unbolt the straps ( 2 of them after lowering leveling jacks. key off, battery switch off and a prayer ) pull out all the fuel lines and return lines ( label em). Then I used 2 floor jacks to slide the tank to the side of the coach closest to the sending unit ( 1 jack at each end of the tank). I then raised the side with the sending unit just enough to get over the bottom compartment rail and lowered the other side so the tank will not hit the frame as it slides out. I pushed the tank out just enough to install the new sending unit. The tank slid rite back in and the straps were easy to bolt back to the support, You need to make sure the the rubber strips ( insulators) are between the strap and tank as well as the tank sits on rubber strips. My tank is 100 gallons and can be filled on either side. I'm not sure if they are the same style but it sounds like it, don't know why they'd change it. If this sounds like this will work for you, I can take a few pictures to make it a little more clear.

You have certainly done your homework sounds like. This kinds stuff is difficult to mix and match, you'd think it would be easier. I do have to thank you for posting those pictures and I hope everyone can see just how dangerous messing with these big guys is, know matter how well it may appear to be supported. I'm still look'n at those pics and gett'n chills. It'll be interesting to see the progress, please post periodic updates. Now I gotta get the vision of that monster coming down off that blocking. &#@(# WOW, thats the PG version of what I wanna say.

WOW !! You have some very big, Very shinny balls. Thank god knowone was hurt. I looks like it's definitely high enough now, I always get uncomfortable working around airbags especially on my pig. It's got a mind of it's own it seems. I keep mine in my shop as well and have all the goodies to keep it off my head and wont go near the bottom unless I've got jacks on the frame with the wheels dangling. I look at your pics and get chills, my wife would cut my nuggets off if she found out this happened to me. For some reason I want to scold you. I can see by your setup tho that you do know what your doing and more than just a tinkerer, sometimes stuff happens and the bigger the stuff your working on the bigger the stuff is when it happens. The crack in the bell housing looks like a good one for sure, without seeing the entirety of it I wouldn't rule out welding it. I've had some pretty big cracks fixed. As long as the welder knows what he's doing and stitch welds it without blasting on one part to much, the case stays true. I still have several 3000's but no 4000's. I'm not the definitive Allison guy, I have to ask why the 4060 versus the 4000 or even 3000. I've never seem a 3000 come apart In vehicles with multi pto ,tank trucks hauling way more weight than either of our coaches. The worst I've seen is lockup clutch burning and the usual suspects and even that is when they are in the 400k miles range. Darn tough transmissions. Have you thought of just buying a takeout engine and trans combo from a hot rod monster with all the controllers and fix'ns. Your sure eyeball deep in it and fearless enough for it. I think for Christmas I'll send you a helmet and body armor so we can all watch you get this moose to conclusion.

I hope it helps. You said the case had a crack in it. Did an internal part cause the crack or was there an impact on the exterior from the drive shaft breaking or other? I've been in the world of transmission repair for a long time, past experience has shown me that OEM is always best and much less problematic, although sometimes difficult to source parts and all the goodies. I have seen many HD transmission with cracked cases from major internal failure ( rare ) to more common exterior impacts from drive shafts ( u joints breaking ) and the drive shaft beating the crap out of the tail housing, then the high centering and broken bell housings. I have more often than not been able to have the case welded ( aluminum or Cast iron) if the welder knows what he's doing and the repair work just fine. These cases are hearty and not diminutive little things. You can repair them, all of the force applied to them is rotational not bending. keep in mind I'm not a know it all and don't know the extent of your damage so my advise is only based on the cases I've encountered. Many shops like the big boys woun't mess with things like this. they like straight forward replacements. Keep life simple, finding someone who wants to experiment with swaps on a vehicle that big even if a book or manual says that combo has been used is risky. I don't and wount do it, I've got into too many things that at first seemed really straight forward and made sense only to tie up my shop and cause many headaches as well as just pissing the customer off because I'm the pro, I should know all these things. That coach is too big to take apart and try to put back together with things that were not there before, just because that donor transmission fits behind the engine doesnt mean it belongs there. Theres lots of cars sitting on sides of garages that are projects just like that, yours is what 30,000+ pounds. Can't just push it back in the garage and take another stab at it. I may be able to help you find parts if you want that a rebuilder can install. There are may companies in Texas that have older transmission parts for Eaton due to oil field rigs of that age still running around there.

Hi there, I found this. It's not the 4060 and the Allison site will help to check the gear ratios for the HD4560p for comparison to the 4060. The PTO on top can be removed and covered with a factory plate. The add doesn't mention the pad or controller for the conversion which you would need even for the 4060. Shot in the dark but thats the best I can do with a belly full of Turkey half asleep. Happy Thanksgiving btw Opps, I did say half asleep. "1995 Allison N14 (Stock # P-879)" copy and paste this

I hope you had a great day. Let me preface this with, not all maxxforce 10 engines experience this and just because it happened to me, I can't say this represents all of them, so take this with a grain of salt and I'm not a professional diesel guy. I bought this RV in July this year knowing there were issues from neglect of the previous owner. The body and interior are in excellent shape and the bones strong. I know automotive very well and have had another DP. The first thing I noticed with this RV driving home was the regen light flickered. Having no knowledge whatsoever of the engine or system at that time I was concerned. Any light is bad as well as looking at the engine temp running at 230 degrees, it just seemed wrong yet it seemed to run by design like that. Once I did some digging, rather allot of digging I stumbled on EPA corrections. I then started putting my hands of the RV. Just checking and looking for things, like leaks, signs of previous repairs, anything. Nothing was glaring at me, the first thing I did was change the oil. While I was under there, I noticed oil residue of the turbo intercooler inlet hose ( dirty oily dust around the hose clamp). After the oil change, I just loosened the clamp and wiggled the hose off, much to my surprise , oil poured out. The intercooler is the large radiator looking thing just to the left of the radiator on the driver side, the inlet hose clamp is just under the driver side rear bumper in front of the large mud flap if you have one hanging across the back. I let the oil pour out and was able to collect roughly 2 quarts. Thats where my research started in earnest. I found this is caused by the crank case ventilation unit recirculating engine gas blowbye, ( the cylinders as the go through the combustion have gasses that sneak by the pistons) this gas and oil mist is collected by this thing and fed back into the engine via the intercooler. This crank case vent is supposed to separate the gasses from the oil mist and needs to be cleaned at intervals much sooner than when I found it or it allows raw ( dirty) engine oil to enter the clean air system and through the turbos then entering the EGR system and this is a very bad thing I've found. Sorry for the long winded tale. I found that this raw oil entering the turbos and flowing through a system that is not designed for this dirty crank case oil let alone any oil at all, gums up everything, especially all of the emission systems. It then becomes in effect a potato in the exhaust pipe, there is tremendous back pressure which creates heat in a system that is already designed for tremendous heat and you have what you're experiencing now. The beginning of hell with a Maxxforce 10 emission system, that you can find easily. It's a cascading thing. This is where I started https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10115440-9999.pdf. Once this was done I started chasing just where this oil migrated to. Going up stream, the EGR was totally plugged but had not yet thrown codes, the EGR mix box was coated with dirty sticky black crap oil residue as well as all sensors. Then with great horror, I realized the turbos must be worse. Theres 2 turbos, 1 high pressure and 1 low pressure and as you can see, they suck something fierce to even look at. being in the automotive field there was no doubt as much as I denied it, gotta fix it now before my although in the world of Rv's like this, it was cheap, for me it was a hell of allot of money that I didn't want to lose because I denied the facts. So after more research i found solutions, none of which were what I wanted to find and with no other info from any other owners to verify what I was about to do really sucked. Here it is, Some things I will share over email but not on such a public venue, not illegal and acceptable under certain circumstances like this, conditions were the engine will fail if corrective action isnt taken. These are also outlined by the same nhtsa publications but the companies that facilitate some of this may not want notoriety. Don't know, dont wanna know. I did these things first, very easy and obvious points of problems ( amazing how stupid the system is for anyone to think it was a good idea for anything other than destroying engines, stuff a sock in your mouth and go for a jog kinda stupid). Once these very easy steps were done, here is the absolutely crappy parts. remove and clean the EGR mix duct, now the really crappy, remove the crank case vent, clean and install the bypass kit you can get from any International truck parts dealer ( and anyone who says if you screw with the engine International woun't help you is nuts). While you have the crank case vent off ( super crappy coming up) remove the turbos. There isn't enough room to take the turbo system off as a one piece ( and it's about 50 pounds) so take the high pressure off first, then the low pressure. Of course this is much easier said than done but if you tackle it I will be happy to give you a step by step.Once the turbos are out, you will be able to see just how much baked on oil has choked the impellers. It was a crap show all the way through, I found that all the hoses and belts were on their last leg due to the heat these things run at and It seems I caught this just before I would tell a much different story. The first trip after all this yuk, Disneyland of course. We live in Washington State and driving south for 1200 miles is the most beautiful scenery yo could hope to ever see, especially along the Oregon Coast. Now taking that trip in just about the biggest RV you can get your paws on after doing all that crap, that know one said for sure will work in it's entirety, priceless. Lots of hills, some say mountains, for more of the trip than flats. I figured if it's gonna go sideways it's gonna be grand, so be it. Ran perfect, never got above 212 degrees, trans temp the same, ambient temp through most of the trip was from 75 to 103 in cali. Engine fan never engaged fully, the cooling system is designed for crazy heat and without it you'll never get hot. Total success, may sound stupid to most but 65-75 the whole way while on the highway ( of course I put new rubber all the way around and arguably to fast) and ran with the best of them. I have no idea if anything I did increased the engines output, my concern was of reliability and longevity. Does it seem more powerful? yes is it factory, yes. did all this suck? absolutely yes. Worth it? yes. I feel the alternative was to get nickel and dimed to death until finally forced to get rid of a perfectly awesome looking RV which I could in no way sold it without telling the onlooker what I know about it. Karma. Sorry for the novel but I wish I could find this before I began my journey from someone who didn't get so chatty. Let me know if you proceed cautiously with yours by checking the intercooler inlet, if you have similar results at that time as I did, we can trade emails or numbers and I'll be glad to help with info. They are great RV's and I haven't seen another, maybe lack of repair info or cost to repair but well worth the effort.

Hi there, I'm new to this forum and searching for other RV's equipped like mine just to see whats out there, your post turned up. I have a 2013 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 43PKQ with the same engine. Mine has 47k miles on it and I have just done I'm sure more work than needed to the engine. Although the end result is amazing. If you still have the Coach I would be glad to share with you corrections I've made which now allows me to pull mountain passes pulling a enclosed 20' loaded car trailer with never exceeding 212 degrees with lots of punch in the pedal. The engine is a Maxxforce 10 9.3 liter international engine. AKA DT570. I've read people say it is a farm/ off road engine and thats not true at all. The DT570 is used in all International semi tractors ( in different sizes, 470 and so on). Some of the work I've done would be considered the deep end of the pool however, in order to have a Coach that performs respectfully some things should be done. Several of the things are recommended by the EPA and corrections from International/ Navistar are off the shelf. I find that the DPF ( egr/cat system) admittedly is not well thought out and a hurried addition to pass EPA muster at that time. The engine is fantastic and can run with the best of them but is choked by the emission system which was only used for a couple of years and changed to a DEF system. Forgive me if I'm sounding like a know it all. I searched in vein to find out why my coach was such a lethargic turd that ran at temperatures that unnerved me on a 100 degree day while listening to the engine fan sounding like a wind storm fan, sucking all available power out of an already dogged engine. After hours of crazy searching I found most the information published by the EPA to undo a critical mistakes they made by forcing emission controls so quickly on manufactures. The technology just wasn't developed enough and in turn created huge issues with trucking nation wide. The engine has 2 names both Navistar Maxxforce 10 and International DT570 however know where have I found these engines produce 405 Horse Power as stated on that tag near the front of the engine ( or rather the back, just above the bell housing). The international dealer found a dt570 that has 405 hp but not in a RV. Again, I only know what I found and you can be assured someone knows more. So if you still have the beast, let me know if you have any questions and I will be glad to share, you can truly end up with a RV that is really impressive at least by my standards, I like a little oomph and don't like having time to ready the news paper while going up hills and here in the PNW thats too much reading. Now I can wave at others as I chug rite up em feel'n like a big shot.