Maxxforce 10

[dandick66]

In my never ending quest to find air leaks, I removed the engine access panel in the rear bath.  After dusting off the valve cover, this label was revealed.  I’ve never seen anything like this before.   
 

[cbr046]

I guess you have to return the engine . . . .

- bob 😁

[Rick A]

Or the coach, but you can’t keep them both. 

[Gkwarner]

There were several versions of this engine that were offered to the off-road/military market and I know that some of those engines are still available today in new condition as surplus. These engines did not have all the emissions equipment that the RVs normally do. I suspect someone replaced the engine in your RV with one of these off-road engines, this would be an issue if you had to take it into an international dealer for engine repairs. 

[dandick66]

28 minutes ago, Gkwarner said:

There were several versions of this engine that were offered to the off-road/military market and I know that some of those engines are still available today in new condition as surplus. These engines did not have all the emissions equipment that the RVs normally do. I suspect someone replaced the engine in your RV with one of these off-road engines, this would be an issue if you had to take it into an international dealer for engine repairs. 

Well, I don’t think that’s the case since the engine serial number matches that of the build sheet.  

[just for fun]

Hi there, I'm new to this forum and searching for other RV's equipped like mine just to see whats out there, your post turned up. I have a 2013 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 43PKQ with the same engine. Mine has 47k miles on it and I have just done I'm sure more work than needed to the engine. Although the end result is amazing. If you still have the Coach I would be glad to share with you corrections I've made which now allows me to pull mountain passes pulling a enclosed 20' loaded car trailer with never exceeding 212 degrees with lots of punch in the pedal. The engine is a Maxxforce 10 9.3 liter international engine. AKA DT570. I've read people say it is a farm/ off road engine and thats not true at all.

The DT570 is used in all International semi tractors ( in different sizes, 470 and so on). Some of the work I've done would be considered the deep end of the pool however, in order to have a Coach that performs respectfully some things should be done. Several of the things are recommended by the EPA and corrections from International/ Navistar are off the shelf. I find that the DPF  ( egr/cat system) admittedly is not well thought out and a hurried addition to pass EPA muster at that time. The engine is fantastic and can run with the best of them but is choked by the emission system which was only used for a couple of years and changed to a DEF system. Forgive me if I'm sounding like a know it all.

I searched in vein to find out why my coach was such a lethargic turd that ran at temperatures that unnerved me on a 100 degree day while listening to the engine fan sounding like a wind storm fan, sucking all available power out of an already dogged engine. After hours of crazy searching I found most the information published by the EPA to undo a critical mistakes they made by  forcing emission controls so quickly on manufactures. The technology just wasn't developed enough and in turn created huge issues with trucking nation wide. The engine has 2 names both Navistar Maxxforce 10 and International DT570 however know where have I found these engines produce 405 Horse Power as stated on that tag near the front of the engine ( or rather the back, just above the bell housing). The international dealer found a dt570 that has 405 hp but not in a RV. Again, I only know what I found and you can be assured someone knows more. So if you still have the beast, let me know if you have any questions and I will be glad to share, you can truly end up with a RV that is really impressive at least by my standards, I like a little oomph and don't like having time to ready the news paper while going up hills and here in the PNW thats too much reading. Now I can wave at others as I chug rite up em feel'n like a big shot.

[dandick66]

Dave,    
I still have the Maxxforce 10.  I have 43k miles on mine.  I’ve had pretty good luck with my engine.  Had to change the ACM (after treatment control module) and this March I blew the turbo to CAC hose coming back from Florida.  
I would love to hear what you did to your engine to make it run better.

Dan

[just for fun]

I hope you had a great day.  Let me preface this with, not all maxxforce 10 engines experience this and just because it happened to me, I can't say this represents all of them, so take this with a grain of salt and I'm not a professional diesel guy. I bought this RV in July this year knowing there were issues from neglect of the previous owner. The body and interior are in excellent shape and the bones strong. I know automotive very well and have had another DP. The first thing I noticed with this RV driving home was the regen light flickered. Having no knowledge whatsoever of the engine or system at that time I was concerned. Any light is bad as well as looking at the engine temp running at 230 degrees, it just seemed wrong yet it seemed to run by design like that. Once I did some digging, rather allot of digging I stumbled on EPA corrections. I then started putting my hands of the RV. Just checking and looking for things, like leaks, signs of previous repairs, anything. Nothing was glaring at me, the first thing I did was change the oil. While I was under there, I noticed oil residue of the turbo intercooler inlet hose ( dirty oily dust around the hose clamp). After the oil change, I just loosened the clamp and wiggled the hose off, much to my surprise , oil poured out. The intercooler is the large radiator looking thing just to the left of the radiator on the driver side, the inlet hose clamp is just under the driver side rear bumper in front of the large mud flap if you have one hanging across the back. I let the oil pour out and was able to collect roughly 2 quarts. Thats where my research started in earnest. I found this is caused by the crank case ventilation unit recirculating engine gas blowbye, ( the cylinders as the go through the combustion have gasses that sneak by the pistons) this gas and oil mist is collected by this thing and fed back into the engine via the intercooler. This crank case vent is supposed to separate the gasses from the oil mist and needs to be cleaned at intervals much sooner than when I found it or it allows raw ( dirty) engine oil to enter the clean air system and through the turbos then entering the EGR system and this is a very bad thing I've found. Sorry for the long winded tale. I found that this raw oil entering the turbos and flowing through a system that is not designed for this dirty crank case oil let alone any oil at all, gums up everything, especially all of the emission systems. It then becomes in effect a potato in the exhaust pipe, there is tremendous back pressure which creates heat in a system that is already designed for tremendous heat and you have what you're experiencing now. The beginning of hell with a Maxxforce 10 emission system, that you can find easily. It's a cascading thing. This is where I started https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10115440-9999.pdf. Once this was done I started chasing just where this oil migrated to. Going up stream, the EGR was totally plugged but had not yet thrown codes, the EGR mix box was coated with dirty sticky black crap oil residue as well as all sensors. Then with great horror, I realized the turbos must be worse. Theres 2 turbos, 1 high pressure and 1 low pressure and as you can see, they suck something fierce to even look at. being in the automotive field there was no doubt as much as I denied it, gotta fix it now before my although in the world of Rv's like this, it was cheap, for me it was a hell of allot of money that I didn't want to lose because I denied the facts. So after more research i found solutions, none of which were what I wanted to find and with no other info from any other owners to verify what I was about to do really sucked. Here it is, Some things I will share over email but not on such a public venue, not illegal and acceptable under certain circumstances like this, conditions were the engine will fail if corrective action isnt taken. These are also outlined by the same nhtsa publications but the companies that facilitate some of this may not want notoriety. Don't know, dont wanna know. I did these things first, very easy and obvious points of problems ( amazing how stupid the system is for anyone to think it was a good idea for anything other than destroying engines, stuff a sock in your mouth and go for a jog kinda stupid). Once these very easy steps were done, here is the absolutely crappy parts. remove and clean the EGR mix duct, now the really crappy, remove the crank case vent, clean and install the bypass kit you can get from any International truck parts dealer ( and anyone who says if you screw with the engine International woun't help you is nuts). While you have the crank case vent off ( super crappy coming up) remove the turbos. There isn't enough room to take the turbo system off as a one piece ( and it's about 50 pounds) so take the high pressure off first, then the low pressure. Of course this is much easier said than done but if you tackle it I will be happy to give you a step by step.Once the turbos are out, you will be able to see just how much baked on oil has choked the impellers. It was a crap show all the way through, I found that all the hoses and belts were on their last leg due to the heat these things run at and It seems I caught this just before I would tell a much different story. The first trip after all this yuk, Disneyland of course. We live in Washington State and driving south for 1200 miles is the most beautiful scenery yo could hope to ever see, especially along the Oregon Coast. Now taking that trip in just about the biggest RV you can get your paws on after doing all that crap, that know one said for sure will work in it's entirety, priceless. Lots of hills, some say mountains, for more of the trip than flats. I figured if it's gonna go sideways it's gonna be grand, so be it. Ran perfect, never got above 212 degrees, trans temp the same, ambient temp through most of the trip was from 75 to 103 in cali. Engine fan never engaged fully, the cooling system is designed for crazy heat and without it you'll never get hot. Total success, may sound stupid to most but 65-75 the whole way while on the highway ( of course I put new rubber all the way around and arguably to fast) and ran with the best of them. I have no idea if anything I did increased the engines output, my concern was of reliability and longevity. Does it seem more powerful? yes is it factory, yes. did all this suck? absolutely yes. Worth it? yes. I feel the alternative was to get nickel and dimed to death until finally forced to get rid of a perfectly awesome looking RV which I could in no way sold it without telling the onlooker what I know about it. Karma. Sorry for the novel but I wish I could find this before I began my journey from someone who didn't get so chatty. Let me know if you proceed cautiously with yours by checking the intercooler inlet, if you have similar results at that time as I did, we can trade emails or numbers and I'll be glad to help with info. They are great RV's and I haven't seen another, maybe lack of repair info or cost to repair but well worth the effort.