dandick66

On 4/23/2024 at 12:28 PM, Keith H. said:

Thank you Dan D. 
BTW, I have a friend who I served with when I was in Air Force Special Tactics. You aren’t him are you?  He’s a Navy Seal and always went by Dan D. 
Wouldn’t that be a hoot!

Keith,

 I was the N6 at DEVGRU from 93-96.  Worked with the CCT’s/PJ’s STS guys.  Most were from Bragg or Hurlburt.  
 

7 hours ago, Keith H. said:

OK, I STILL cannot identify the “inline” 30 amp fuse for my Kwikee steps. 
Could someone send me a picture and location of where yours is?

I have a 2003 Signature Centurion if that helps. I have searched in my engine bay fuse box, my front street side fuse bay, my fuse panel in my bedroom, the small fuse box in my closet, my battery bay and under and around the steps themselves

If I knew what I was looking for, it might help. I only know what the blade fuses you push in look like. Not sure what an “inline” fuse looks like or what it’s “housed” in for protection. 
 Thanks for helping. 

Keith

Here’s a photo of an inline blade style fuse.  
 

15 hours ago, jacwjames said:

That's my next job is to figure out what is involved with each card.  I've read that with MudFlap you have to go into the store to show the code, which texted to you phone.  Besides having the card with TSD are there any other requirements. 

 

I do like the map that pops on Mudflap, gives a good view of access which is important when pulling toad.  When I look for diesel ahead of time I'll pull up google earth on my laptop to get an idea of access etc.  Most of the time that's good enough. 

The Sam's club nearest us ~25 miles away has good access and I usually fill up there on my way back home.  That way the tank is full waiting on the next trip.  But I've been to some Sam's clubs that has very poor access to the point I decided to pass trying to get fuel. 

I showed my wife the 3 different apps, she was not thrilled.  She is use to finding low prices on GasBuddy so at least I know she might do OK going that route.   But always to have options. 

With TSD, you just swipe your card at the pump.  There are several prompts.  You have to enter your control number, where you want DEF, and a couple of other things.  Then you just pump away.  There is no printed receipt, but I snap a photo for my records until I can reconcile the statement from TSD.  It is usually a day or 2 after the transaction.

I like TSD for the fact that you don’t have to go inside.  One time the reader was bad and I did have to go inside.  Also, with TSD you must use the card at least every 2 years. I believe this is a new requirement as it used to be 6 months.  I’ve read that you can call them and verify the card is active.  They will reactivate the card, but you have to use it that day.  They also have an emergency after hours number that you can call while at the pump.

You can find less expensive fuel, but you need to figure out if “the juice is worth the squeeze “.  I have a 100 gallon tank, so most of the time I never buy more than 75 gallons of fuel.  I always plan my trips and fuel stops.  Almost all of the truck stops on the Interstate are readily accessible.  I still look at Google Maps to see what the station looks like - is it at an intersection with red light, is the entrance on the right or left, etc.  I find it’s a lot easier to make a left turn entering and a right turn exiting than the other way around - takes some of the stress out of it.   

Looking at your interior controls, it appears to be a Ford system.  However, it looks like your blend control valve is GM type.  I believe the company that made these for Monaco is SCS or something like that.  I think they are out of San Antonio TX.  You should be able to find a sticker or on one of the AC components on the coach.

Based on my experience, Dorman is an aftermarket supplier.  Your blend control valve sure looks like the one in the Amazon link below.  Have you verified that you got the part number correct, or did you contact Dorman as Tom suggested?  He said he couldn’t find 604-6105.  Yours sure looks like a 610-106.  
 

https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Replaces-89018365-1994-2012-Silverado/dp/B07M7Z2JW8/ref=asc_df_B07M7Z2JW8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=330426419246&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16684606023890238269&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008394&hvtargid=pla-644927302503&psc=1&mcid=b5cd2f10870d3592bd521f1d981df9a8&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZmwBhD8ARIsAH4v1gXLLUJbigcSuorkPA5HLPLBthN6wzgHgOi5-Qbj4coBRchpgLj_Sm8aArJrEALw_wcB

Here is the official Rev drawing for my 2012 Diplomat cold water plumbing.  It has the part number for the water filter.  2012 Diplomat Sch Cold Water Plumbing.pdf

13 minutes ago, jad050 said:

Wow,  my part number is 1539-10399-19... your picture is  1539-10233-19...  pretty d*** close, -19 (match) is likely rev number and connectors match my pictures..  I can find your part number on web for sale at rvsupply (2 in surplus stock, but pricey)).  Nothing with my part number...   Will do a bit of probing, but might just buy board to keep this OEM (and this seems like critical part), and fix other board (I have lab techs that can do this wearing a blindfold).  If it is really loud, might add a momentary switch to silence alarm while I am sitting in drivers seat...  otherwise patch in new "annunciator"...  
Segue: how did you fined this?  I am the guy folks come to to ask how things work/ repair/etc...  I can usually find the needed webpage with a few details, like naming that tune with 3 notes...  I found nothing last night, was thinking of contacting Medallion today...    I watched Pete Townsend on Tonight show last night talking about Broadway show "Tommy"..  Line in my head is "I just handed my pinball crown to him!" 

Thanks...  JimD

Thanks, I want something loud an annoying...  I this thing is beeping I want to not be able to ignore it... 

I didn’t stay at a Holiday Inn, but I did help Al Gore invent the Internet. Haha. (I hope that was acceptable, Tom.) can’t remember where I found that file to download.  I might have got it from Medallion.  

I understand that you want to hear the alarm, but remember, that alarm will go off for a variety of scenarios.  Driving back from Florida in the rain a few years ago my entry door step switch got wet and set off the alarm.  Listening to the beeping every 2 seconds for hours on end is not pleasant.  Another time I had the “yellow triangle “ illuminate and alarm sound.  It cleared and then did it again.  I discovered that my ACM (after treatment control module) was on the fritz.  It wasn’t a critical problem, but again, that alarm was driving me crazy for hours.  I contacted Medallion several times by phone and email, but no one responded to the emails or returned the calls.  I finally got a human and explained my problem.  She got someone who was somewhat familiar with the system, but he said the guy who did all the work was no longer with the company.  He said he’d send me what info he could find and that he would contact the other guy.  Well, I never heard from the “other guy”.   I’ll go through my emails and find what they sent me.

As far as buying another board, if it was me, I wouldn’t do it.  There are a bunch of other options to get all of the data the Medallion displays, and more.  I started out with Scangauge D, then purchased BlueFire.  I also have the Servicemaxx software.  That is the official Navistar diagnostic software.  It has more bells and whistles than you can imagine.  You do have the Maxxforce 10, right?

Spray the fittings with penetrating oil and let it soak in before you tackle the removal.  

There has to be wires going to the back of the toe kick.  That is what turns the vacuum on and off.  
Several questions… When you unscrew the toe kick, how far can you pull it away from the wall?  Can you get to the back of the toe kick from another part of the coach?  On my Diplomat I think I can access the wires from the amidships bathroom.  If not, I think I could remove the convenience center control panel and see the wires in that cavity.  

If I understand your post correctly, you were able to find the 2 wires that run from the vacuum to the toe kick, but could not unscrew the wires.  You tried a multi meter on the wires, but no readings.  What mode was your multi meter in - volts, ohms, amps? 
 

Try this… Unplug the vacuum.  Set your meter to read ohms or continuity.  Touch the leads together and confirm that you read 0, or hear a beep/tone.  Connect the meter leads across the wires that you found.  Make sure you have a good, clean connection to the wires, not the insulation.  If the toe kick switch is stuck closed then you should read 0.  If it reads open “OL” on the display, then the toe kick is not what is keeping the vacuum running.  

54 minutes ago, jad050 said:

Wow, that was easy enough, that cover off you have great access behind dash...  first thing I saw was a wire bundle terminated with a molex connector hanging in air marked "alarm mudule"  thought I found it...  looked a bit more and cam up with more hanging connectors,  realized this is likely a "one size fits all" wiring harness..and some.models have an alarm feature..

I found the back of Medallion display panel with buzzer...   with the cover off I could hear the buzzer when key was turned on and stayed on until air was >60psi... but not very loud!!!  With dash cover on knowing the sound I  can almost hear it if I lean in. My 2005 knight I could here Low air alarm in back of coach with engine running...  need to go back with some connector probes,  hopefully the alarm is a unique feed to Medallion panel.  There are not that many wires for the number of lights on that panel...  and one connector feed the lid display...  I need a much louder alarm for this..

Will update again once I isolate what feeds buzzer.   Going to my local electronics store and see what they have.  I got lots of old PC beepers,  but I want louder...

JimD  

I actually put some electrical tape over mine because it was so loud.  It still is plenty loud.  I found the attached Medallion diagram.  Looks like the buzzer is pin 9 on detail G.  Just to make sure it’s the right pin, I would backprobe it with a test light and turn the ignition switch on and off.  See if the light comes on and off, then you’ll know you have the right pin.  You could probably just clip the wire and then connect your new buzzer.  I would not try to unsolder the buzzer from the PCB.  

2012 Diplomat Medallion(1) 1539-10233-19.pdf

32 minutes ago, jfasano88 said:

I will try it tomorrow   Very little room to get to it. Only enough wire for wall plate. Can’t get a screwdriver in there. I can cut the wire at the vacuum and can splice it back?

You could do that, but if that works then you will still have to get to the kickplate wire/switch.  

4 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

I did what you said and it is working. But now it won’t turn off. I use the breaker to turn it on and off  any ideas 

John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

 

It might be the kickplate switch.  There has to be a wire from the kickplate switch to the vacuum.  If you disconnect that wire does it turn off? 

56 minutes ago, jad050 said:

Thanks for all the info and suggestions.  I'm traveling right now,  will be back to RV in a couple of days....

One last question,  does the top of dash pop off, there are no screw holding a access plate like my last rv.  

Thanks,  JD

Yes, it lifts off.  Lift it up and towards the windshield.  

3 hours ago, jad050 said:

Yes,  I get digital display of Low pressure(s).. is this pointing me to 'alarm'?  Is this a replaceable part or am I looking for a pcb board?

What happens when you turn the key on?  Do you hear an alarm/buzzer/annunciator?  If you do, then your problem is with the air sensor system l. If you don’t, then your problem is more than likely the buzzer/annunciator.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Yes.  At that point, when you get the idiot light….you should have noise.  Now comes the “hunt”.  Whether you have a PCB with a “wired” remote buzzer or a surface mounted beeper is the question.  There were 3 maybe more vendors used by Monaco.  We have, I think, 2012 Diplomat drawings. The question is…..did Monaco use the same vendor or another.  Faria, ACTI, Medallion are 3 brands that come to mind….IIRC there may be a third one.  Get your phone out….you may need to purchase one of the wireless “probe” or snooper cameras.  They have an LED light as well and are on a flex line.

Pull the dash access cover..  Get a picture (cell phone)  or snooper camera of the backs of the instrument cluster and gauges.  TYPICALLY….There is a main cluster.  That has one or two multipin connectors….maybe 10 - 12 wires….and maybe 2 of them.  These are the inputs from all the sensors and such.  They feed the “main brain”.  It will be the largest cluster.  There may be side or other clusters next to it.  This brain sends out the other gauges inputs.  The brain also lights up all the idiot lights as well.

GET A PART NUMBER (S) from each cluster.  Also find the two air line sensors….they have a 1/4” line to each.  These are the pressure transducers….that go to the brain.  ACTI has them on the brains PCB.  MEDALLION is remote or not on a cluster.  UNFORTUNATELY most of these clusters are old and the vendor doesn’t have in stock or fix.  ACTI was a upper end brand….

START googling the PN and maybe there is a brand or logo. Then you call the vendor and give them enough info to locate THEIR prints.  GREAT TO HAVE.  They will tell you ANNUCIATOR is remote and replaceable or on a board.  Usually, a shut off beeper means a 100% BAD alarm condition….and a tech started getting creative…

NEXT QUESTION….OR an ASSIGNMENT.  Read the manual….thoroughly.  Does any other “function” use the BEEPER.  Typically, switch off….headlights ON…AN ALERT.  Have you EVER heard an alarm?  Do you have an “IDIOT” light that is always on?

THERE is no “cookbook” answer to how your gauges work.  Detective work….find vendor name.  Find the series or model.  Get the vendors prints on the incoming and outgoing wires.  Find out where the pressure transducers are.  Find out where the beeper or annunciator is…

AS stated earlier….  If the gauges WORK…..THEN you have a WORK AROUND.  Put a “T” in each line.  Install a 50 PSI switch on each line.  Hardwire a 12 VDC ALARM OR BEEPER.  

Thats it….good luck.  Keep us posted.  If you get prints, then PM @Frank McElroy  Send him the prints and any digital manuals or such and he will put them in the files for others to access….

I looked up the 2012 Ambassador brochure and the dash is identical to my Diplomat.  That means you do indeed have the Medallion system. The alarm should go off when you turn the key on.  It will also go on if you open the door with the engine running.  There are other situations that make it come on - high temperature, engine warning, etc. Like I posted above, you need to determine if your problem is the alarm/buzzer or the air sensors before you start digging into the dash. 
 

 The alarm/beeper/annunciator is surface mounted to the PCB.  You could probably unsolder it, but if it were me, I’d clip the wire at the connector and wire in a new buzzer/light combination device. 

My 2012 Diplomat has the low pressure alarm.  Your problem might be the alarm itself, not a sensor. 
Do you get an alarm (beeping sound) when you turn the ignition switch on?  If so, your alarm is working.  When you start the engine and the air is low, the Medallion display should alternate between “Front Air Low” and “Rear Air Low”.  Do you get those readings?  
The alarm for the Medallion system is on a PCB behind the instrument panel.  

When mine didn’t work, I dismounted it and took it apart.  I rapped on the circuit board relay with a plastic screwdriver handle and it’s been working fine for over 5 years. 
Try that and see if it works.  

8 hours ago, Bigdogracing said:

So interesting things happening. We are using the RV today and found a. Few more things happening.  The slides wouldn’t work, like no power even though it had power.  Waited a few minutes and then suddenly started working.  Same with the step cover- wouldn’t go back in but then we just waited and kept pushing the button and then suddenly started working again. So def something electrical.  Also, now turning off the chassis battery isn’t killing the engine.  My appt is not until April 1 -  so just wanted to to post this in case something else comes to mind from your experts.  I am thinking it might be the BIRD or the Big Boy- wondering if I go buy new ones and replace and try that at all? Thanks

So how are you getting the engine to shut off?  Are you connected to shore power?  If so, try unplugging and see what happens.  

2 minutes ago, Bigdogracing said:

Yes I think that is correct.  I have slept since then LOL

Well, if it still dinged with those disconnected, then it’s probably not that relay.  Still won’t hurt to try it, though.

2 minutes ago, Bigdogracing said:

I will try that but need to say that even with what I did yesterday once I turn on the chassis batteries the dash starts dinging without the key so it’s getting power from somewhere it shouldn’t I think. 

Is the dash dinging with both of those relays disconnected?  

Ok, so that second to last relay might be bad. Try switching the connectors of those 2 relays.  In other words plug the inboard most connector to the second to the last relay and plug that relays connector to the inboard most relay.  

If the gauges and ignition switch works, then we’ve isolated the problem.  If that relay is bad, the engine may not start, so don’t get alarmed.  
 

Post the results.  

Ok, I think we may have some progress.  Try reconnecting one of those relays and see if the coach acts “normal”.  If not, disconnect that one and reconnect the other one and see what happens.  You may have a bad relay.  This will help us isolate which of those 2 relays is potentially bad.  
Let us know the results.

20 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Hopefully you'll get 8 non-stinkers!

My first pair of M-144's stunk something awful when warm!

I had the same experience with the Toyo’s - smelled like a barnyard.  I thought I drove through something on the way home from the tire place.  Fortunately, the smell went away, but it took well over a year.

Ok.  Here is another idea.  The attached schematic is from Navistar, not Monaco.  I’m assuming you have the Maxxforce 10 engine. Look at the top 2 relays I’ve circled in red.  These relays are located in the RRB next to the battery tray (photo attached).  Try turning both sets of batteries off and then disconnect the connection to the 2 most inboard relays.  Then turn the batteries back on.  The engine won’t start, but I’m curious to see if the gauges cycle and everything turns off properly when you turn the key off.
Those relays are for the ECM power and ACT power.  I know for a fact that if the ECM relay isn’t working properly the engine will shut down.  I can’t remember if the gauges 0 out or not.
Let us know the results. 

1 hour ago, Bigdogracing said:

Once the house batteries are turned on the dash automatically comes on without the key, even being in the coach. Also, that behavior doesn’t shut off until the house. Batteries are disconnected so it’s something on the house side. I’m just not sure how to figure it out, we’ve changed all the relays that we can see all the fuses all the easy stuff.

Is everything “normal” (coach starts and engine stops) when you turn the house batteries off and leave the chassis batteries on? To me, that’s a critical step in troubleshooting this problem.  

8 hours ago, Bigdogracing said:

Ok, that makes sense on the F17- sorry you had to dumb it down for me.  I feel like I am on info overload here as the days go by!

The relay that shuts down the engine is the third from the left on the top row.  The gauges did reset when that was done as well- in fact, that is the only way to reset them. 

I am not smart enough to know how to fully test the ignition wires since they are not individual and feed into a plastic harness.  CAn you help me know how to test the ignition wires and then the ignition itself?  Google isn't helpful with these RV ignitions that I could find anyway.  

Everyone here is so helpful and I appreciate you all!

If you remove the dash pad/cover you can see the ignition switch.  There are 4 wires.  As I posted on Saturday, looking down at the switch, the top wire/connector is battery and has 12 volts at all times.  To the left of that wire/connector is the “run” terminal.  It should have 12 volts when you turn the key on.  I would remove that wire and see if you have 12 volts on the terminal with the ignition switch off.  If you do, I would say you ignition switch is bad.

30 minutes ago, Bigdogracing said:

Correct, putting in the spare relays did not change anything as far as that goes. However, I still have that one fuse slot in that relay cluster that is not getting any power from the board. 

I will try to remove the ignition with the engine running and what that does. One other thing- I would think that the engine is controlled by the chassis batteries and not the house batteries, but when trying to shut it off, I turn off chassis battery power first, the engine stays running- it only shuts off when house battery shut off is engaged - is that odd?

If you’re talking about F17, it only has power with ignition off.  Since your ignition won’t turn off, you won’t see power at that fuse.
 

What relay did you remove to shut down the engine?  Did the gauges return  to zero when you did that ?

Did you test for power at the switch and wires as I suggested on Saturday?  If so, what were the results.  You need to start methodically troubleshooting the problem.  Start at the ignition switch.  As I stated before, it is readily accessible.