dandick66

I realize this post is a little old, but I wanted to give my input.

I purchased my 2012 Diplomat with a Maxxforce 10 in December 2017. It had 21,000 miles on it.  In August of 2018 I was in Camping World and they had an oil sample kit on the clearance rack.  I did a sample and the result indicated that the aluminum was high and I should change the oil.  
I changed the oil and put it Rotella T6 synthetic.  The coach had 27,000 miles on it then.  Since then, I’ve submitted samples and everything is good.  They say to drive 2500 miles and submit another sample.  After the last sample, they said to drive it 1,000 miles and submit a sample.  I decided that was long enough on the oil and filter - 6 years and 16,000 miles, so I changed it even though it was still testing good.  I used Rotella T6 again, since I had enough of it in the garage.  
 

10 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I have been using JG Lubrication for coolant, engine, and tranny. 

My plan is to do a service on the tranny when I get home, take a sample and send it in.  I was planning on sampling anyway, I believe I still have some sample kits at in my garage. 

Jim,                    
You certainly didn’t help it,  but I doubt you did any real damage to the transmission.  If the total transmission capacity is 12 gallons and you had to add 3 gallons, that’s 25 percent.  Think of a “regular “ car engine.  They used to be 5 quarts and you could run them 1 quart low forever without any fear of damage.  Well that’s 20 percent of the total capacity.  You should be safe, but for peace of mind, pull a sample and send it to JG Labs.  They’ll be able to tell you whether to change your fluid or not, and what kind of wear was on the fluid. 
Good luck and enjoy the rest of your trip.

10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Got to have one of those cameras! Could use it at the Monacoers Gathering if we ever have another one scheduled again.

I hope you have deep pockets.  $16k.  https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/teledyne-flir-si124-ld-industrial-acoustic-imaging-camera-for-ultrasonic-leak-detection.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7JOpBhCfARIsAL3bobeUlmFT8JwmQTgpBPzflxfgpFUgqLQ7QVOoUPXu4zUBCsnuDkvOptwaAmOgEALw_wcB

On 9/29/2023 at 9:01 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Nelson  84365a  or  Baldwin PT951 is what @Gweedo  posted.  According to your manual, you have the same system.  3.5 Quarts.  There are pictures of the “external” spin (like an oil) on filter, which @Gweedo doesn’t have.  So look at Gweedo’s pictures and then verify you do NOT have the additional filter.  

https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/BALDWIN/PT951

if you google Baldwin PT951 there is a plethora of what to use.  My recommendation is that you do the following….  Get three paper towels.  Buy a quart of a known brand of Dexron III/Mericron 5 ATF.  This is what you need for your hydraulic Lippert Jack system.  Always good to have spare fluid.  

Remove the dipstick from your power steering hydraulic system.  Let it drip on one towel.  Maybe do that a few times  or let it drip on a piece of white plastic or even the top (assuming you have white) of your washing machine or any white appliance.  Then pull a sample of your Hydraulic jack fluid.  You KNOW that is ATF from the manual.  Finally, a few drops of the AW46.  ODDS ARE….the two ATF samples will look the same.  But, I think a highly UNLIKELY IF…but this is MONACO….After Navistar took over, that you have AW 46.  

NOW…  Do the math.  Gweedo said the 3.5 qt was the capacity when he flushed.  That is 112 Oz.  He or maybe someone else, here, or on the same topic, in another tread or post or topic said they only added 3 - 4 oz (half cup) to replenish the oil that was in the filter.  That is only 3.5%.  That little bit, assuming you did not pump out or drain the reservoir, is not an issue.  So, IF YOU HAVE RED ATF, I’ll bet you really can’t tell the difference….so let it be.

NOW, IF you did drain the reservoir or whatever is in your system is not “red” or “tan/yellowish/straw” colored….then maybe Monaco forgot and used motor oil.  Bottom line…if your jack oil and the power steering (hydraulic) samples look the same….drive on.  But, you could pump Or syphon out the reservoir and add back Transynd (original TS-295 or new TS-668) and then rest a little easier.  

IF it is a “horse of a different color” or if it is AW46, then I would follow what Gweedo did.  i would only flush once with a non synthetic ATF….then drain and replenish with Transynd.  

That’s my “shot” at an answer….if you keep adding, by draining or emptying the reservoir, Transynd, then after the next service, forget it…..it will last forever….

 

 

 

On 9/30/2023 at 9:52 PM, 96 EVO said:

Tom, as you can probably imagine, when it comes to hyd systems, I believe nothing they printed in their manuals!

My manual shows my coach having the tall reservoir with 3 stacked filters, and only the spin-on filter if my coach came with a CAT engine! I'm also supposed to have AW-46.

Wrong on all three!!!

I have 0 interest in looking up another models manual to decide if it could be correct or not 😁! 

Believe I posted a while back I called their 'Tech' support, while they still had support, and questioned why my AW-46 had a red tint to it. After a few seconds of though, the guy told me Monaco 'sometimes' added red dye to their hyd fluid!

He didn't sound very convincing, and I didn't believe a word he said!

My one and only experience with Monaco 'Tech' support!

I've had better luck with forum's like this one ever since!

And of course Harry, my '08 Camelot / Scepter Guru 😉!

 

Sorry for the delay in responding - I’ve been working on home projects.  
Based on the info in my owners manual, I don’t think the drip test will work.  According to REV, they add pink dye to the AW46.  It does say the capacity is 3.5 quarts, though.  

On 9/28/2023 at 8:51 AM, jacwjames said:

That requires higher math.

Here’s some “funny math”….

On 9/27/2023 at 10:06 AM, dandick66 said:

A couple of years ago I noticed the fluid was a little low in my 2012 Diplomat.  I checked the manual and it said to use AW46, so that’s what I added.  
I have no idea if my manual was wrong.  Could I have caused any potential damage to anything by adding the AW46 if it was supposed to have ATF or 10-40?  Everything seems fine and I have not had to add any more fluid.

 I do not have a hydraulic fan and as far as I know the power steering is the only thing hydraulic other than the slides, which have their own reservoir. 

I guess no one wants to take a shot at answering this??
 
Here is the filter info for my Diplomat - according to the manual - who knows if it’s right!
 

Unless I’m missing something in the math, you drove 2840 miles and spent $1577.78 for fuel.  This comes out to $.55 per mile.  Much more palatable than $2.12/mile

A couple of years ago I noticed the fluid was a little low in my 2012 Diplomat.  I checked the manual and it said to use AW46, so that’s what I added.  
I have no idea if my manual was wrong.  Could I have caused any potential damage to anything by adding the AW46 if it was supposed to have ATF or 10-40?  Everything seems fine and I have not had to add any more fluid.

 I do not have a hydraulic fan and as far as I know the power steering is the only thing hydraulic other than the slides, which have their own reservoir. 

When you said you located the headlight relay and it had no power, do you mean you tested for 12 volts on pin 30 with the headlights turned on?

I looked at the FRB diagram for my 2012 and it indicates  VCB 11 is low beam and VCB 12 is high beam.  Do you have voltage there when headlights are turned on.  Next check VCC 1 (high beam) and VCC 2 (low beam).  VCC 1 and 2 are fed from VCB 11 and 12.  

 

I have the Garmin 780 and  it’s pretty good for the most part.  However, I don’t fully trust it.  I try to look at my route with Google Maps using the satellite view before I start my trips.  
I figure you’re pretty safe on the interstates since they have to accommodate big rigs.  If there’s construction or a road closure the DOT has to consider that.

Just for fun, try getting directions to the TA Petro in Manning, SC from 95 South using Google Maps.  The TA is located right off of 95 Northbound.  Google Maps has you get off at the exit and turn right, and take a local road North for several miles, cross over 95, then turn right again and follow that road to the TA Petro.  The correct route would be to turn left off of 95 South and then cross over 95 and the TA Petro would be right there.  If you use the Apple Maps, it routes you the correct way.  
                    
Trust but Verify!!

It might be the headlight switch itself.  The clearance and tail lights will work when the switch is pulled partway out for “parking “ lights.  Maybe the switch isn’t making a good contact when it’s pulled all the way out for headlights.

Bob,

Glad you found the problem and got it fixed.  I had a similar issue with my Maxxforce engine, but didn’t post it here as just about everyone here has a Cummins or Cat.

Here’s the link to my IRV2 post.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f122/maxxforce-10-won-t-start-600575.html

Dan

On 9/22/2023 at 4:40 PM, cbr046 said:

So I finally pinned down a problem to an intermittently bad relay.  The FRB Monaco Box 2 is filled with Tyco VJ28-95F24-S01 relays.  Right next to it in Monaco Box 1 is filled with Omron 7866 relays.  They appear to be the same, including the 20A NO / 10A NC current specs.

My guess is these were just assembled at different times with the fl"avor of the day" relay that purchasing acquired.

At $14 the 7866's are ~$6 less than the VJ28 relays on Amazon . . . and then there's Nilight . . . . a 5 pack for $2.80 each.  Sounds like a bargain (until I'm on the side of the road 400 miles away).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=relay+12v+omron+7866&crid=3L59AJ0VH7OB8&sprefix=7866+relay

or search for VJ28-95F24-S01.

Are these relays all the same?

- bob

FWIW I’ve had good luck with the Nilight relays their other products.  

You should definitely change out the Monroe shocks.  The Monroe’s on my 2012 Diplomat were terrible at 35,000 miles.  I went with Bilstein.  They made a big difference in ride quality.  
I did have problems locating the correct part numbers.  I got the number of the shock and couldn’t locate it on the Monroe website.  I emailed them and they gave me 2 different part numbers and neither one of them was the correct shock.  You might want to check the parts list and see if your shocks are listed - mine were not. 

You might want to try your local Ace hardware.  I know most of them make screen frames.

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I did not go back with anything, just keep it washed. 

Same here.  No special treatment.

I was able to remove my Diamond Shield with minimal use of solvents, etc.  I only had 1 small patch of paint that came off and it was under the front curve - not noticeable.  
You might want to try this first.  If you can’t get it off, or the paint starts to come off, then go with your original plan. 

Your signature says you tow a 98 Grand Cherokee, but you write up mentions wanting to tow a pickup.  
I originally had a dolly then changed over to flat towing.  Flat towing is definitely easier to connect and disconnect, but the dolly wasn’t terribly hard.  
After experiencing a breakdown once, I decided I will never use the coach without a tow vehicle attached.  
If you’re traveling cross county you definitely don’t want to take a chance on being “vehicle less”.  

You should have one of these between the wet tank and rear tank.  It allows air to flow from the wet tank to the rear tank.  When the governor cuts off the compressor, the valve allows approx 10 PSI to flow back to the dryer (purge).  Then it seals and prevents air from going  from the rear tank to the wet tank. 
 

You can pick up one of these to test your cable and connections.  
 

iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool https://a.co/d/3m3ixxJ

For $10 it might be easier than trying to figure out if you have a bad cable/connector. 

23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

A bit contrary to the previous post....so read both and then try this.  Progressive DOES specify that this IS a Data cable....but you have one....to verify....

Here is what I THINK I understand.  First..  Since you have the internal remote...  Pull out the internal display and then look at the ends of the wires or the number (6 or 4) and the sequence.  Then do the same on the other end (from the internal.  

Based on my limited knowledge...there used to be, in IT, what was called a Twisted Pair.  So, if you have a 2 pair (4 wires) cable and wanted to used it for DATA, you took a 4 wire Phone cable and then "reversed" had a different color sequence on the other end.  A phone cable is the same....

Now, there are, and you can order them, the RJ11/12 cables.  These are 3 pairs in this one versus 2 pairs in a phone cable.  

SO....look at the original cable.  Then, see how the ends are or are different and try that...or order one from Amazon...

My gut, and don't depend on it....the Progressive is a 2 pair...but the ends are different...and that is why is is a data cable...but you have the means to do that.

Twisted pair is just a term for the wire sets being twisted together instead of straight runs.  The twisting helps reduce interference and cross talk.  Can be used for voice or data.  
 

You could buy a junction block like this.  Plug your good end into it you’ll be able to determine what wire goes to terminals 1-4.  Then just take the other end of the cable and make sure you wire it the same when you use your crimper for the new connector.  
 

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tel-Products-AT468-4-Conductor/dp/B005M1YQ98/ref=asc_df_B005M1YQ98/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194024095585&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13725825128469133732&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008394&hvtargid=pla-311062674930&th=1

23 hours ago, camelot said:

My rear bedroom slideout has a small 4x10 in. rot on the outside when I put it out. Looks to be right where the rollers hit the bottom. 

I see you’re in Palm Bay.  That’s only about 3 hours from Brooksville, where Talin is located.  They can determine if you need a new floor or not.  They’ll install the Guardian plates and see if you have any other problems.

We have the Splendide stacked washer and dryer.  The washer works good, but the dryer is slow due to being 110.  I would think you’d have a problem getting one of those combo units through the door.  I agree with Dennis - put this on the back burner until you get your feet wet and lear/deal with any other issues and problems that might come up.  In the meantime, do a lot of research and see if you can find a smaller sized washer and dryer that you can fit in the door and work on if necessary.  

When the compressor cuts off, do you see a 10 PSI drop in the first 30 seconds?  If not, then your PCCV (pressure control check valve) is defective.  
Open your wet tank drain valve.  You should not see any drop in pressure in your front and rear tanks.  If you see a drop in the rear tank, then again, it’s the PCCV.  If both tanks drop pressure, then it’s probably the shuttle valve (one way check valve).  
I just went through finding and fixing a bunch of leaks this spring.  I had a defective PCCV, shuttle valve, and several brake hoses were leaking.  
I discovered that Monaco didn’t make a lot of changes to their air systems over the years, so you can look at most of the available drawings for hose connections, sizes and colors.  I’ve attached the drawings for my 2012 Diplomat.  
Good luck. 

18623342_B (Schematic Pneumatics DEKA 43ft) Model (1).pdf

My 2012 Diplomat has the drain tubes.  One of them is missing the “duckbill” on the end.  I’ve looked for replacements, but it seems like either the cost or shipping is ridiculously expensive.  I need to google and find a source.