dennis.mcdonaugh

You can replace the o-rings on the valve?

I'm not sure what o-ring you are talking about. I have the whole housing and it comes with a metal gasket - its the new version with better valve handles. I've used a blank coolant filter (Fleetguard WF2122) since since I switched to OAT coolant over ten years ago. Here's a picture of the where the leak falls on the ground. I was wondering about reusing the coolant since its only a few years old. I can strain it with a paint strainer and cheesecloth before putting it back into the engine.

After driving the coach for its yearly inspection, I noticed a small wet spot under the engine a couple days later. I did a cursory inspection when I changed the oil and filter, but saw no wet spot or drips on the bottom of the engine. A few days later the spot was still there. A more thorough inspection revealed I may have a leak in the valve for the SCA canister, the one you can shut off to replace the canister. Luckily, I have a new one in the box on the shelf. Anyone have any idea how much fluid I’m likely to lose changing out that valve?

That's a good price too.

You can get it lots of places. This is is pricy, but do a search. https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/815-4324710010.html This is the cheapest one I saw that actually said Meritor or Wabco on it. Beware of cheap knockoffs. https://www.finditparts.com/products/11914822/wabco-4324803417

I take mine out every 5 years or so and rebuild it using the upper and lower parts kit. Even though I serviced it regularly, a rubber seal gave up and it leaked air. It’s not hard to get out. Most fittings are brass, you might spray the mounting bracket. I have both kits on my bench waiting for me to install. It actually might be easier to just buy a new air dryer every 10 years.

I just changed the oil, oil filter, coolant, air filter, and both fuel filters. For some reason my generator has a Racor fuel filter on the back of the generator too. Its the kind with the plastic bowl for trapping water so I'm assuming one of the two POs had an issue with fuel contamination. I need to clean the spark arrestor too, thanks for reminding me. I ordered a belt so at least I have one with me if mine breaks.

I've been running Peak OAT coolant in the coach since about 2008 and continue to run regular coolant, Prestone this time, in the generator. Carrying the left over quart of Prestone antifreeze doesn't seem as big a deal as the procedure you have to go through to change to OAT coolant in the generator.

That’s not the recommended coolant for my 24 year old Onan generator. Nothing wrong with it, but most of our generators are not wet sleeve design and don’t require SCAs in regular coolant or an OAT coolant.

The manual says drain, flush and replace coolant every two years - that seems a little excessive to me. When I bought the MH in 2016, I changed the coolant with Prestone and the label said it was good for 3 year so I went with that. I changed it again in 2019 and used Peak this time which had a label that said it was good for 5 years. So 5 years later, I just replaced it again with Prestone, but now the label says its long life and good for 10 years. What's everyone else doing about the change interval on their generator coolant?

I replaced mine about 5 years ago as two of them cracked. I went with regular light bulbs instead of LEDs. Both the clear squares that were for backup lights on the Blazer were red on my lights so I painted the clear spots red on the replacements.

I don't know if this has been covered before, but Cummins offers a 10% military discount on on-line parts orders. You have to use IDme to verify your eligibility. https://shop.cummins.com/SC/

No, that gets discouraging right away.

I got a little over 4 years out of my pair of detectors - they both quit within a month of each other. Normally I get 5 years of life out of one. When I was replacing the one below the stove, I blew its 1 amp fuse. I had done this before and it took me a long time to find the fuse that time. You'd think I’d remember where it was, but nope, and it took me a long time to find my notes. I finally did locate them and the fuse is in the rear run bay in a 2000 Dynasty. One of the replacement detectors was labeled 2022, but this shouldn’t be an issue because I think the clock starts running when it is powered up right? I wonder why the fuse isn’t with the other house fuses in the bedroom?

I normally keep up with maintenance yearly, but I didn't change any fluids the last two years since I didn't drive it 30 miles in that time. I have the ISC and use Mobil Delvac Heavy Duty diesel oil from Walmart for $14.82 a gallon.

I ordered the 20V De Walt grease gun from Amazon. I went with the kit that comes with the case, battery and charger. Since I have other De Walt cordless tools I can use another charger and battery.

We really haven't used our motor home in two years. Over that time, I've sort of kept up with maintenance, I put a new chassis battery in it last year when I drove it over for its yearly safety inspection and I've kept up with re-caulking the roof and things like that, but I have not been doing most of the maintenance as it came due since we weren't using it. Now I'm doing all the deferred maintenance at once. Holy cow have prices gone up! I'm starting at the front and working my way back to the end. I going to end up spending close to $1500 just for parts and fluids. The upper and lower service kit for the Haldex Pure Air Plus air dryer is over $275 from NAPA. The cheapest I could find the engine air filter is $190 for an AC Delco unit from Amazon. The fuel filters are over $100 for the pair of Fleetguard replacements. Oil and oil filter are over $130. The generator oil and oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and antifreeze are over $100. Transmission oil filters are right at $100 and a gallon of Transynd is $50. Has it really been three years already? The three filters for the hydraulic reservoir are $100 and 5 gallons of AW-46 hydraulic fluid is $75. Finally, 20 quarts of gear oil for the differential is $400. That still leaves miscellaneous things like grease for the chassis, PAC brake lube, Dexron transmission fluid for the hydraulic systems, windshield wipers, and fan belts.

Well, I think you guys answered my question. I didn’t know dewalt made one, I have other dewalt tools so…

Anyone have a recommendation for a good, durable pneumatic grease gun. I've bought a couple, one $50 and one closer to $100 and they both worked great for a couple years. The seals started leaking after only three years in the cheaper gun and the more expensive one quit pumping grease. The both worked great when they worked, especially after I installed the locking nozzle. I've been looking at the Milwaukee cordless gun, but I wonder how much pressure it can exert. Most of the pneumatic guns can apply upwards of 6000 PSI.

We’ve been pretty lucky. Our auto insurance renewal only went up $75. It’s the home owners insurance I’m really worried about. Between skyrocketing building costs and natural disasters, there’s a lot of pressure to raise rates. Wildfires have replaced hurricanes as our number 1 natural disaster. Hurricanes do more damage, but they don’t happen every year. There are hundreds of wildfires annually.

That’s dirt cheap.

Is that $340 for the whole year??!!

I just received my renewal notice from Foremost and my policy went up $300 this year. Our policy is through Farmer's insurance.

My coach is now 24 years old, I paid $47K for it almost 10 years ago. If it’s totaled, I don’t want a 24 year old replacement, I want reasonable compensation and for them to pay to haul it off. I’m thinking it won’t take much real damage to total a 24 year old coach given parts availability and labor costs.

Homeowners rates in Texas rates have risen substantially the last couple of years, mainly due to a high claim rate because of weather. I thought it was mostly caused by hurricanes, but turns out its wildfires. The town of Fritch, in the panhandle, was ravaged this week for the second time in 5 years. I had a roof claim for hail damage of almost $40K a couple years ago, but my rates didn't go up last year. I'm dreading this year's renewal. Having a recent claim makes it hard to change companies.