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Girard Patio Awning goes Out not In


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A few months ago I had a problem with my Girard Patio Awning (G2000?) stopping before it was fully retracted.  I called Girard support and the told me to bypass the current limiter box and then re-adjust the "out" and "in" limits with the hex tool.  Did that and all was OK... for months.  Yesterday, awning goes out not in... tried it a few times... waited then tried again.  It had been out for a few hours so I don't think it's an overheat issue from bringing it out then in multiple times.... 

Anyway I brought awning in manually.  I'm now on the road, not ready to do any tests but wonder if anyone has had this issue after bypassing current limiter.

Has anyone had this issue?

 

 

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Mine acted a lot like that except I could tap on the control box and sometimes get it to retract. Turned out to be burned contacts in a relay on the control board. 
Can you hear the relay click when pressing the switch?  
My theory is it takes more current to retract the awning which stresses the tiny relays. And I suspect that bypassing the current limiter makes things worse. I had a sketchy current limiter and also a sketchy relay which was fun to diagnose... Instead of bypassing the current limiter I lucked into their updated ‘adaptive’ version on eBay. 
The little relays are discontinued and nobody domestic has them in stock. But you can find them on eBay shipped straight from China. I’m (edit) NOT tremendously skilled with a soldering iron, but I was able to replace the two relays. It’s pretty tight on the board and I was just barely able to replace myself. 
Takamisawa 4pins JV12S-KT Relay. There’s a very similar relay available domestically, but it has a higher current trigger coil. My electronics friend said the circuit board could probably handle it, but I didn’t want to risk it. 
Cheers

Walter

Edited by wamcneil
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Guest Ray Davis

 I had a similar problem one time .  I went to a hardware store and bought a simple door bell push button sw and bypassed the problem putting power           straight to the motor .    That was some yrs ago and I don't remember specifically where I connected the wires but it worked .    The push button sw is still       there but we don't use it much anymore .   I should dig into it like Walter did and repair or replace the control , maybe someday 

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4 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

 I had a similar problem one time .  I went to a hardware store and bought a simple door bell push button sw and bypassed the problem putting power           straight to the motor .  ..

Yeah... that was plan-b in case I ruined the circuit board with my ham-fisted soldering...

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