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I'm looking at upgrading the audio on my rig.The books say that it has the Aladdin Jr. setup. I was originally going to swap in a silver leaf set up since the Aladdin system is not working. I'm now thinking of putting together a home theater setup as a brain and then adding other elements as needed.

 

I already need to swap out the weldex because it only works when it wants to. The Aladdin system monitoring is nice to have but not a necessity. Would prefer to have proper audio and video when I want it. Currently it is just insufficient.

 

I'm looking for any schematics on the alladin system to plan how I will butcher it. uh... Integrate

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Is this about Audio (the title) or of Automation? or both?  Alladin Jr is automation, so is Silverleaf.  Not sure what Weldex is other than a company.

Alladin is a camera system...

So, I hope I can help, but what's the task?

And, the above systems noted - is that the parts you have already decided on?

What functionality are you looking to support?

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Things to fix:

- Camera system - Currently a weldex monitor with 3 cameras

- Audio - Replaced auto head unit and looking to fix overall audio quality

Like to have:

- a better coach monitoring system for tanks, engine data, etc

 

Aladdin is video but much more than that. It is a full coach monitoring and control system. It is linked to cameras, engine data, tanks, Audio, and a few other minor elements. The only reason to mention it is the hope of converting to silverleaf will fix the audio issues (Creature comfort)Also. I somewhat doubt this is the case.  Silverleaf is a minimum of 2K for the transfer material. With no guarantee a prior owner didn't cut necessary wires or systems.

 

Bypassing the system is easy enough but I wish to use all current wiring to make it easier. Therefore knowing the Aladdin schematics will help to know what wires will be adapted to my needs. It will avoid cutting the wrong wire and exploding my internal bomb.
 

Audio is my primary target but really I'm fixing all creature comfort electronics due to coach age. Electronics are far better than in 2006. I'm just looking for the right data to make proper decisions and prepare my strategy.

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I am a very serious autophyte.  Bose is my choice of equipment because of it's sound quality and compactness.  When we went full time we moved our Bose systems into our coach.  I installed the 5.1 system in the front of the coach.  The bass/amplifier unit lived behind the drivers seat against the side of the sofa.  The 2 front Bose speakers were installed above the dash with the center speaker under the front center TV.  I used the 2 speakers that came with the coach that were in the ceiling in the kitchen for the rear speakers because they were sort of "fill" speakers for the 5.1 sound.  

In the bedroom I used my Bose 2 channel system.  I have a Bose wave radio that I used outside.  When we came off the road in 2010, I moved the systems into our house.  The 5.1 system was installed in the den.  In 2012 a power surge due to a thunderstorm with a lot of lightning took out the 5.1 system.  I still have the 2 channel stereo system in my man cave bedroom and the Wave Radio in our bedroom.  

I wish I had today's technology because of the easy install.  I have a Bose Sound bar under the main TV in the den.  Chuck B. 2004 Windsor

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Thanks Chuck. My coach has a 5.1 system with poor quality. upgrading the head unit with a better amp improved the sound slightly. The sub in the coach is not filtered so it receives full range sound, making it a muffled mess. Will need to think on the strategy to make sure I have enough inputs for the plethora of devices today.

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1 hour ago, nvrtoofast said:

i actually think I have a full Aladdin system but in my file it has the Aladdin Jr. book. I am a tad confused.

 

Module "should" be under the dash removable cover. It will be printed on it whether it's the Jr model.

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Ok, Audio:

"Serious Audiophile"...there is a very wide definition of that....we have installed speakers that were $500K....that's pretty serious.

So, lets assume we aren't trying to be "serious" and are trying to put in  an audio system that is at the cost/ performance sweet spot ie: you could spend three times more and it will sound a little bit better.  And 1000 times more and it will sound amazing.

First is the plan.  For example:  in my RV, there is now a Joying head unit.  I chose that because it's like a smartphone running Android OS.  So you can add apps.  My RV automation user interface runs on it as an "app".  That allows me to control "everything" which is a much more capable alternative for the Aladdon / Rozie / Silverleaf stuff.  The Joying low level outputs go to quality car amps (I use Hifonics) to quality "home" drivers (I use Dynaudio and Focal).  All in custom enclosures sized to fit the spots.  Two 12" woofers for bottom end (Dynaudio), 4) 6.5" midranges (Focal) and 4) ribbon tweeters (Alpine). 

Because the myServer automation "App" is installed on the Joying, I control all media volume etc. via the myServer 6 control system.

Then there is the camping audio.  I use a Denon HEOS two zone Audio / Video Receiver. This is connected to the Samsung TV in the front and the LG TV in the kitchen via HDMI cables.  The LG has a splitter with another HDMI to the outside future TV location.  The Denon also feeds the four house speakers and two exterior speakers.  The Denon is controlled via my myServer 6 automation controller.  HEOS is all streaming music also controlled by myServer via ethernet.

There is a second Denon AVR in the bedroom with 5.1 speakers and a LG OLED TV.  All controlled via myServer automation system. 

Next month our new SmartRemote will be used to control and monitor everything and be the primary remote for TV channel surfing.

 

So, it all sounds great (not $500K awesome, but  better than just about anything you will step into) at a "reasonable" price (whatever that is to you) that can all be centrally controlled while driving (or sleeping or from the House, or from my phone etc).

 

There can be an infinite amounts of customizations and changes for any RV and budget.  The budget is key to give you real recommendations.  Everyone has a different perspective of affordable.

Edited by DavidL
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WOW!!!!!!!!!!!  Now that is a super audio system in a coach.  I know you are proud of it.  It must be nice to control your coach sound system while sitting on the throne in the potty room by fiddling with the flush lever.  My wife would not know how to turn on the system let alone operate it.    Your wallet must be so light that you do not know it is in your pocket.  JMHO

I decided to change my JMHO to just kidding, sorry

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5 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!  Now that is a super audio system in a coach.  I know you are proud of it.  It must be nice to control your coach sound system while sitting on the throne in the potty room by fiddling with the flush lever.  My wife would not know how to turn on the system let alone operate it.    Your wallet must be so light that you do not know it is in your pocket.  JMHO

I decided to change my JMHO to just kidding, sorry

The key to the automation system is to make it super easy for just about anyone to control a complicated system. 

What do I want to do (listen to Music), where? (drivers area), what to listen to?  Pick an artist / genre / song / channel, How loud?  change the volume from default.

Thats about it.

The stock system in the Newmar was very difficult to figure out because it was a bunch of parts that were put together with no control system.  I am pretty technical and it was difficult to figure out.

Anyway, it's good you share an interest in good sound.

 

The purpose of my response was the Budget is the main criteria for what the plan and how good the end result will be.  Since everyone has a different definition of "good", what we all agree on is a dollar is a dollar.  So, to the OP...do you have a budget?                     

Edited by DavidL
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DavidL,  All good points and good post.

The "Range" of install is always what must be considered. I don't have a set budget,  but want to find optimal performance for the dollar. I don't need to hear top quality audio when my youngest asks for "The wheels on the bus". But I do want to watch Jurassic Park without the sub rattling itself and ruining the T-Rex moment.

I like your set-up and it makes sense. My biggest reason for posting is trying to get out of running new cabling for the stereo. It's doable but a time saver if i can get around it. Current system has a 5.1 setup in the house side and links to 2 more in the bedroom. It also has 2 separates at the bed linked to the tv in the bedroom.

It's not a bad start. But the speakers are thin on sound and it seems as there is no EQ on any of them and no filters on any of them for range.

My thinking was similar to yours on head units, speakers and total cost. 

I like automation and was hoping to keep some of the features of the coach monitoring. Though my Aladdin was broke when I purchased and have never used it. Only know what I've seen online. Silverleaf seemed like a good choice for fixing and upgrading the Aladdin system. But I hear your skepticism. Please tell me more about "Myserver" and how you have it installed and its functionality. I'm interested.

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Know that the speakers are the biggest difference in sound quality.  So, get the largest drivers that will fit your given area (especially the subwoofer).  Size isn't certainly the only criteria but it's fundamental.

If you have a smaller budget, then replacing only the speakers will sound better than replacing all with marginal equipment.  You HAVE to have a budget for recommendations.  If you have $500K in mind, that's one thing.  If you have $200, that's completely different.  If you have $10K, that's another.   So, what's the budget.  There ALWAYS is one.

The next major criteria is where will speakers be, and what are the physical constraints for driver size and back box size and mounting to ensure no vibration transmission and certainly so stuff doesn't fall apart on rough roads.

Then ensure you have enough watts from the amp to drive those speakers to the sound pressure you want to listen to.  ie: some people never listen to the system "loud" and others like to crank it and rock the bus.  If the former, not many watts are required.  You just don't want the amp to "clip" which ruins the sound quality (and the longevity of the speakers).  Choose good brand names to simplify getting decent stuff.  So many brands are out there that are cheap but don't last and have crazy overrated specs (like watts and THD).  Steer away from amps that have zillions of advertised watts - because they don't and that's indicative that the hardware is garbage.

Note that an EQ is really there to compensate for a not so good system.  The better the components, the more natural the sound will be which eliminates the need to EQ.   EQ adds another noise source into the system. 

If you notice, I have a 12volt "mobile" system (the in dash Joying / Hifonics / speakers) system and the Denon based systems for general use when on 110volts (including on generator).  Which are you trying to upgrade?

For 110volt, Denon sounds like a perfect balance of features, capability, price, good brand name.  Make sure whatever you buy will physically fit and decide if you have to alter bezels etc to make something fit nicely.  Ensure you have ventilation.

The Denon has an included microphone to automatically setup the system for delay, volume balance all channels which makes that easy.  "Audessey" is their product name for that capability.

You might be able to reuse all of your wiring.  The biggest change was going from component video wiring to HDMI for the 110v system's TVs.  If you are on HDMI, then you are good.  If not, then lots will change to modernize the system.  Mine needed all of those upgrades so everything was gutted, rewired and replaced.  but I did all of the rewiring when the coach was completely apart for a rebuild.

Lots more info will be available on myServer when I can get around to writing that up.  http://allonis.com

Edited by DavidL
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