RecPro install

[jegall]

Looking for any information on replacing Penguin 11 with two RecPro  air conditioners on my HR Imperial .

 

[CMillet86]

What type of ductwork do you have? And what type of furnace do you have if any? 

[CAT Stephen]

Here is the litmus test to determine if the RecPro direction is right for you:

- Verify that you do not have heat provided by an Aqua Hot unit

          - If you have an Aqua Hot unit, stay with the Dometic Penguins

- Verify if your current Penguin 2 units are ducted or non-ducted

 

Also, keep in mind the Pros & Cons:

- Con: Ducted RecPro's don't like sharing duct work and will cycle off prematurely if their shared ducting is not separated  (Carefully placed duct tape is the solution)

- Pro: RecPro's are tremendously quieter than the competitors such as the Dometic Penguin 2 and are THE quietest rooftop AC units on the market today

- Pro: RecPro's can be controlled remotely if you purchase and setup a SwitchBot 

- Con: RecPros can't be controlled by your existing Dometic thermostat

- Pro: RecPro's are less expensive than the competition

- Pro: RecPro's typically don't need a soft starter when utilizing inverters because their startup surge maxes out a 15 amps unlike the competition

- Con: If you have an Aqua Hot unit for heating, you MUST stay with Dometic 

 

Answer the questions above so that Tom, Cmillet86, and others can guide you through the next steps.   Tom is the forum SME on rooftop HVAC changes as it is applicable to Dometic controller integration.

[jegall]

1 hour ago, CMillet86 said:

What type of ductwork do you have? And what type of furnace do you have if any? 

I have two Atwood gas furnaces also the penguins are heat pumps that I never use . When only one air conditioner is running I get a small air flow from the opposite duct so some connection must be.

[CAT Stephen]

Thanks for confirming that you have ducted AC.  As you have decided not to have the heat pump functionality moving forward, then here is what you should purchase:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-remote-control-ducted/

 

Keep in mind that the above unit is 13.5K BTU.  If you want 15K BTU cooling capacity, you will also opt in to the heat pump feature:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

If you opt in to the 15K BTU unit above, make sure that you select "Ducted" on the options.

Both the above units are slightly taller than your current Dometic Penguin 2.  RecPro does not manufacture their low profile units (Penguin height) for ducted applications.

You will retain your current Dometic thermostat as is for controlling your furnaces.  You will control your RecPro A/C units via their remote control(s).

You may optionally remotely control your RecPro A/Cs with your cell phone or tablet if you purchase a SwitchBot hub:

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-Hub-Mini-Smart-Remote/dp/B07TTH5TMW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2TN3HJJHDB9ME&keywords=switchbot%2Bhub%2B2&qid=1692804049&sprefix=switchbot%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-8&th=1

For additional sound level suppression and a tremendous increase in air flow, purchase a custom airbox distribution mainfold from RV Airflow Systems:

- https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/pages/the-details

If you elect to purchase the product above, you will need to call RV Airflow systems directly via (574) 536-2472 and order by telephone as their RecPro Manifolds are not listed on their ecommerce shopping page. 

After installing your new RecPro A/Cs, find an optimal place in your shared ductwork to seal off into two (2) separate zones using a high quality HVAC tape or take the low road and use duct tape.  Then enjoy the quiet performance!!!

 

Edited August 23, 2023 by CAT Stephen

[CMillet86]

1 hour ago, jegall said:

I have two Atwood gas furnaces also the penguins are heat pumps that I never use . When only one air conditioner is running I get a small air flow from the opposite duct so some connection must be.

If your furnaces are on separate thermostats that simplifies things on that end, but if you have ducted air that's another issue. There is a post on here from someone who installed some, his consensus was if you have ducted air don't buy them too much work. I just had to replace my rear and I was looking into it, but I have aqauhot heat and ducted air, so it was worth the extra $600 I had to spend to not reinvent the wheel. 

[Tom Cherry]

50 minutes ago, jegall said:

I have two Atwood gas furnaces also the penguins are heat pumps that I never use . When only one air conditioner is running I get a small air flow from the opposite duct so some connection must be.

Cat has laid out a very concise and informative plan.  I will add or probably "amplify" the sticky issues....so that you can have a successful installation.

Cat has said "Aquahot".  I think that means "A HEATING DEVICE" as in a Furnace OR an Aquahot.  The controls ARE interchangeable...and you CAN control EITHER, just like you do now with the Dometic 5 Button system.  The thing to remember...  The FURNACE contacts on any Dometic are the INFAMOUS BLUE wires that work off the Dometic Controller.  You MUST salvage (assuming they are working) the Controller from EACH unit you replace.  The 15K are on the roof and the 13.5K are in the plenum.  You MUST also mark and identify the incoming wiring and phone cords to each.  You will also have to cut off the pigtails that connect to the actual Penguin compressor and fan.  You must also have the diagram for HOW they work...it will be in your prints...but Monaco only did it one way...and that is simple.

Bottom line... you must identify the POWER (12 VDC) into the controller that has to be left intact. You MUST also retain the phone cords so that the lines stay plugged in.  The only other task is to find the Furnace wires or the "Blue connections" There is a pair of wires that go directly to where the HEAT is.  Matters NOT if Furnace or Aquahot.  You have to reconnect these wires to the Controller.  So, the controller has one 12 VDC, 2 Phone line and the TWO Heat Wires.  NOW, you can remount the 13.5 Controllers INSIDE the Plenum.  Just like before.

The SUCCESSFUL 15K use a "box".  We have a full post on that with the Amazon PN and such.  The member mounted it (the controller inside the box or enclosure) inside the Plenum...just like the 13.5K.

If you do that, and follow the wiring and understand that only THREE wires (Power and two leads to the HEAT) are needed...and don't blindly demo out and cut wiring helter skelter, your system will work.  

NOW the Caveats.  The controllers are OLD.  They are STILL available....but we are seeing MORE controller failures as time passes.  That is a recent (maybe in the last two years) development...strictly USE and AGE.  This is the OLD (CC or 5 Button style).  The NEW Penguin II uses what Dometic calls CC2.  It STILL needs a controller in the plenum for each unit.  BUT, it is the NEW technology.  The OLD 5 Button will not work with it.  BTW, they are scarce and now sell upwards, "refurbished" for $175.  PERSONALLY, if I were doing a Rec Pro, I would use what is working.  BUT, when the first failure (thermostat or controller), I would seriously consider the costs...and I would probably convert both Controllers to the NEW CC2...and then decided on the MicroAir or the OEM Dometic 10/12 button NEW thermostat.  Your call after you look at prices of the MicroAir or the Dometic and features.  

THEN, if you do the install correctly, and KNOW the way the Dometic MPX works, your heating system will work fine.  Folks have done it...but they ASKED first and then fully understood HOW TO INSTALL.  Based on what I have read elsewhere, the folks like Cat and @CMillet86, based on Cat's recommendation, are "smarter" than MOST RV techs.  Very FEW of them really understand or master the Dometic MPX.  BUT any good "electronics buff" with some intrinsic understanding of WHY and HOW the MPX works...can do it.  

The ALTERNATIVE if you need HEAT (Furnace or AquaHot) is to find the terminals on each unit (assuming two furnaces and one AH) and run a pair of wires up a wall (wiremold) and install a Honeywell Line Thermostat WITH an ON/OFF position.  These sell for around $50 - $75 and will provide control for heating....just turn off the OTHER system and both would be fighting each other...THUS the Honeywell Tstat with and OFF...many don't have this.  A Coleman RV regular thermostat will work....IF you understand how to also run 12 VDC to operate it...and install a relay at the furnace.  Those thermostats send out a PLUS 12 VDC...NOPE...not gonna work.  You have to have a DRY (not voltage) set of contacts....and that is exactly WHAT is on the Dometic Controller.  Not mythical...but often misunderstood and it has taken several of us a long time to study, help others and "fix" their problems.

That's it...

15 minutes ago, CMillet86 said:

If your furnaces are on separate thermostats that simplifies things on that end, but if you have ducted air that's another issue. There is a post on here from someone who installed some, his consensus was if you have ducted air don't buy them too much work. I just had to replace my rear and I was looking into it, but I have aqauhot heat and ducted air, so it was worth the extra $600 I had to spend to not reinvent the wheel. 

Thanks for making me SMARTER.  I did NOT fully understand, and Cat pointed it out...the issue of "Cross talk" inside the ductwork...but it SURE MAKES SENSE.  OK...to expand or say what I THINK I know...and this comes from several talks with Dometic.  Monaco typically has TWO ducts....one on each side,  If you turn on the REAR AC and put the fan in HIGH and use the paper or whirlygig or an anerometer, you will FEEL (if you close off the vents along the run, the AIR from the REAR, coming out the fartherest VENT in the Front.  THUS the CROSS TALK.  NOW, on the OTHER SIDE, typically, there is a SHOWER. So Monaco blocked or cut off the other side.  My Shower is on the left side as I walk back and at the wall before the Bedroom door.  So, my rear LEFT side Duct is strictly a Bedroom.  There is a Duct in the Hallway, as I exit the living/kitchen on the left side inside the hallway where the shower it.  That connects to the Front...  On the OTHER SIDE (Drivers) the duct runs FULL LENGTH....and there is CROSS TALK.

Excellent point and it clears things up.

Thanks to both you and  @CAT Stephen

Good info for others.

I hope I also clarified how, YES, both and Aquahot as well as a Furnace (or two) CAN work properly with a RecPro if you understand the logic and are careful...

Good comments...we Moderators appreciate such...and this HAS been a topic that we have talked about on the phone to fully understand so we can give fact or clarify misconceptions.

[1nolaguy]

I replaced two Penguin II A/C units with two RecPro (Houghton) heat pump-A/Cs about two years ago. Here is what you need to know before making a decission:

As noted by others the RecPro is quieter and more versatile, uses a bit less amperage (especially on start up). The remotes are handy, especially when you are in bed.

Install: Depending on your roof thickness you may not be able to use the provided bolt or may need extensions. If you go back and check previous blogs on this subject under my handle I posted details about this. I ended up having to buy additional metric coupling and threaded bar to extend the 4 main bolts in order to reach from the inside flange to the roof mounting. As I recall the bolts provided are about 6" in length but required length for my roof, which also has a slight curve, was about 8". Also, if your roof is not flat, with the provided foam gasket the unit can accommodate up to about 5 degrees of pitch. If you have a pitched roof you will need someone on the roof and someone inside in order to secure the bolts through the ceiling. Not knowing this in advance added greatly to the time of the project and in my case to the cost as I had hired a mobile tech to do the install.

Also - The Rec Pro unit is stand alone with internal thermostat at the ceiling fixture. It will not tie into the 5 in 1 wall mount controller that is mounted on your wall. As a result you will also loose control of your furnace. I am still working on finding a solution to this but since we avoid cold weather camping and are generally with hook ups the heat pump does the job when needed.

Also - If you have a ducted system and you are planning to install 2 - 15000 btu units you may, like me, find that when running both units one may cause the other to cut off. This is because very cold air from one travels down the duct and if there is a leak or by pass in the divider baffle cold air will bypass the baffel and cause the thermister in the second unit to freeze up and cut off the second unit. This is more an issue in highly humid areas like the gulf coast and Florida.

All that said I am still pleased with my RecPro A/C purchase. Its just that knowing these things in advance can save you some time and headaches.

[jegall]

3 hours ago, jegall said:

Looking for any information on replacing Penguin 11 with two RecPro  air conditioners on my HR Imperial .

 

Need to add I now have a Micro air 357 installed I would like to use it to control both furnaces only .

 

[CAT Stephen]

 

9 minutes ago, jegall said:

Need to add I now have a Micro air 357 installed I would like to use it to control both furnaces only .

 

Yes, you can retain the Micro air 357 to control the furnaces.  Follow the lead of @Tom Cherry to the letter and share your bumps in the road in this forum.....

[nvrtoofast]

Really Like the RecPro units. So much so, I have a 15K unit in a box in the garage. If anyone needs one out there just reach out.

All the info needed is in the thread above.  And well laid out too.