2010 Dynasty Internal MPX Switches. Help or Suggestions? Thanks

[Stephen D]

Problem with internal switches 2010 dynasty I’ve put my coach indoors for the winter on hook up I don’t winterise it because I keep heaters inside and in the lockers I put the hot water heater on for a few days as it was very cold just to be sure my son come in before and said the docking lights were on when I went into the workshop one side and the rear were on when I went into the coach all the internal switches were illuminated orange as if everything was switched on when I tried the lights they come on and just keep going through dim to bright dim to bright sometimes on and sometimes not you cannot tell what’s on til you try it like whe water pump you don’t know if the hot water is on til it gets hot or not sometimes all the switches start flashing anyone got any idea’s I’ve had to turn the isolator switches off the coach has the kongsburg system but I’ve never had any problems with it I live in the uk so there’s no tec or anybody with a cadet diagnostics tool 

thanks stephen D 

[Frank McElroy]

40 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

Problem with internal switches 2010 dynasty I’ve put my coach indoors for the winter on hook up I don’t winterise it because I keep heaters inside and in the lockers I put the hot water heater on for a few days as it was very cold just to be sure my son come in before and said the docking lights were on when I went into the workshop one side and the rear were on when I went into the coach all the internal switches were illuminated orange as if everything was switched on when I tried the lights they come on and just keep going through dim to bright dim to bright sometimes on and sometimes not you cannot tell what’s on til you try it like whe water pump you don’t know if the hot water is on til it gets hot or not sometimes all the switches start flashing anyone got any idea’s I’ve had to turn the isolator switches off the coach has the kongsburg system but I’ve never had any problems with it I live in the uk so there’s no tec or anybody with a cadet diagnostics tool 

thanks stephen D 

I would first unplug from shore power and then disconnect the batteries - wait a few minutes then reconnect them. This in effect will reboot both the Intellitec house lighting and the Kongsberg dash multiplex systems.  Also make sure you don't have anything pressing the Intellitec keypads like a pillow or bedding next to the nightstand keypads.

[Stephen D]

Thanks frank it 10pm here now il try that in the morning hopefully that will fix it il keep you posted 

[Tom Cherry]

On 12/8/2023 at 4:45 PM, Stephen D said:

Thanks frank it 10pm here now il try that in the morning hopefully that will fix it il keep you posted 

Follow Frank’s advice.  He is our Intellitec GURU or perhaps one of the best of our “members who understand” the system.

I would offer a little more specifics….as sometimes folks don’t fully understand. Frank will say OVERKILL, but it has helped folks in the past.

• Disconnect from Shore.  Genny OFF. Remove the fuses from a solar controller or the battery leads or “climb up and cover the solar panel”.  You need to kill all DC
• Turn off the House and Chassis battery switches
• Open the battery box(es).  Remove the internal jumpers between all the house batteries.  Don’t mess with the chassis. Take a picture if you are not familiar with how the Jumpers are connected.  We have had folks that cot confused….doesn’t hurt.
• I’d wait a few minutes….take a 5 minute break.  That allows any electrical gremlin or stored charge to dissipate 
• Press a button and hold for 10 seconds or so on every switch pad….probably not needed…but that will discharge and bleed off any stored charge.
• Make sure, like Frank says that there is no pillow or book or anything leaning on or pressing on a switch pad.
• By the time you go in and press a random button….including the one in the service bay….the gremlins will have died.
• Reconnect the jumpers….Positive to Negative….see your pictures.
• Switch on the disconnects….you can mess with the solar later.  If you have good batteries…and they are charged….otherwise plug into Shore.
• Then watch the switches or the lights,  Should come up fine.  Then test each keypad.  They should turn on and off.  If OK….test a dimming circuit .  Test a fan…then the oump. Whatever….NOTE any switch or circuit that might be acting up….write it down….that will be critical for folks to help further.
• Restore the solar….

[Stephen D]

Thanks frank and Tom I did the overkill sure to be sure which always make sense to eliminate all possibility’s and it’s reset and all looks well I’ve only just reconnected so let’s see if it re occurs on another note we have no techs in the uk so I think I need to acquire the necessary equipment ie cadet diagnostics and what els is needed so I diagnose problems if needed so any help in acquiring said equipment please also I think I need to have some necessary spares wile they are still available like front and rear modules and spare switches what ever you think would be wise to have in stock on this side of the pond if I can be pointed in the right direction to please

thanks again for you help  

[Frank McElroy]

The chassis multiplex system has been obsolete for years.  There are a few rear CCM modules that can be purchased from stock but front CCM and all the dash switch modules are only available from salvage yards and they are almost impossible to find.

Read this 12 page thread and pay attention to my posts.  I have links in how the system works, modifications to fix the SmartWheel 5 VDC supply, fuses to prevent a circuit board fire in the front run bay and how I repaired and reprogrammed the Eaton dash switch modules.  I know it's a long thread but it contains everything you'll need to know.

On the house Intellitec system, there are a few of us on the forum who can repair and reprogram them.

[Stephen D]

Hi frank i was already on with  doing your recommendations I’ve bought the 5v transformer to fit ready for when it’s needed and I’ve bought the lower amp trip switches to fit lucky enough I had disconnected the auxiliary 12v compressor a couple of years ago because it kept running as there must be an air leak but I am having trouble finding it so that may have saved the coach from a fire I will go back through your post for anything I’ve missed or mis understood thanks again for your help Stephen D

 

[Frank McElroy]

You might have a dirty reed valve inside the head of the air compressor.  See my post on Feb 12 on how to clean it.

 

[Stephen D]

Frank I am going through all your pages know I bought my 2010 dynasty bishop lV 39ft new unused from Paul evert rv fresco at what I thought was a good discount price till now I don’t know when the build was started but it had a navstar sticker on it so weather they finished the build or just inherited it from the bankruptcy I don’t know but weather it’s a Friday afternoon coach and being in the uk we’re there are know dealers did not know how everything is supposed to work like the house batteries don’t charge from the alternator I figured this is because the battery bank of 4 L16 trojans would be to much for alternator and the BB booster never worked proper if engaged it would not disengage unless you turned the house isolator off and it never boosted anyway and as I added another 2L16 trojans to make it 6 I thought the same it would be to much for the alternator so just start the generator if they start to go down at night after the solar has stopped working wile driving sorry to be a pain but there’s no one over here with a kongsburg dynasty that I know of but like I’ve said even though it’s a kongsburg coach I’ve had no trouble other than I’ve used a few banks of house batteries and minor rv parts like water pumps as you would expect

thanks Stephen D