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Frank McElroy

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  1. Frank McElroy's post in Electrical wiring short was marked as the answer   
    The wiring diagram that Monaco used would have been the same as specified by Cummins.  Using Cummins Quickserve and your engine serial number you should fine a wiring diagram for the DPF.  Monaco did not have a separate schematic for the engine DPF system.
  2. Frank McElroy's post in 2007 Dynasty Intellitec MPX Module questions (12 VDC Distribution?) was marked as the answer   
    Your best reference document would be a set of schematics for your coach. (This was mentioned in replies to posts on another forum.) Circuits that use fuses and circuit breakers are all in separate wiring diagram schematics as individual circuits.
    You will not find a single document anywhere (other than in a set of wiring schematics) listing the hundreds of individual fuses and exactly what each one does in your conventional chassis 12 volt and house Intellitec 12 volt multiplex lighting systems.
    However, with that said, almost every fuse on the circuit boards in the FRB (front run bay) below the drivers seat, the RRB (rear run bay) and the Intellitec system in the bedroom closet has an LED light that will light up if the circuit is active and the fuse is good.
    The LED colors red, yellow, green have no meaning as far as colors go. They were for the wow factor and only mean that the circuit is on and that the fuse is good.
    What is important to know is where to look for a fuse based on the problem you have. For example, house lighting, water pump control, thermostat control, slide controls, you look in the bedroom closet house Intellitec system. Most anything else, chassis related, it's either the FRB or RRB 12 volt electrical bays. And then you have "hidden" fuses for things like solar in the battery boxes and other system fuses in the ceiling between the frame rails behind the cover in the storage bay where you'll find the transmission and Bendix ABS/ATC computers and your Aladdin databus interface. All these fuses will be in your set of schematics.
    Here is a link to a set of schematics.  Print out page 131 and pages 195-202 for Intellitec modules A-H, page 218 for the RRB and page 233 for the FRB.  (Yes, I know you have a 2007 Dynasty but the 2006 set of schematics will be close enough.) This will provide you with the fuse labels you need.  Also, become familiar with these wiring diagrams and how the electrical circuits work.  A wealth of information - more than you could ever imagine but you will need to know if you have a problem.
     
  3. Frank McElroy's post in Mixing Hydraulic fluids was marked as the answer   
    Tom - As a follow-up to our discussions, thank you for posting my offline comments.
    Bottom line - if you are starting the engine or driving in very cold climates (teens DF or below) use ATF or Transynd and NOT AW46.  Your hydraulic oil cooler will thank you.
  4. Frank McElroy's post in No power to Kenwood cameras, monitors,CB, and good time radio - 09 Dynasty CCM Kongsberg Chassis. was marked as the answer   
    Thank you for the kind words.  I'm sure your followup solution and how the troubleshooting was done will help others.
  5. Frank McElroy's post in Air loss exiting highway. was marked as the answer   
    It is very common for this tag axle regulator to leak air and when it does it will need to be replaced. 
    Below is a more detailed air brake system test that you should perform periodically.  
     
  6. Frank McElroy's post in Aqua hot for winter use was marked as the answer   
    Yes, you can use the aquahot to heat the coach with the fresh water system winterized.
  7. Frank McElroy's post in Gerard wind sensor was marked as the answer   
    You likely have a Girard Anemometer.  If it's the new style try removing the top and oil the shaft.  If the old style, Google Girard Anemometer and you will find lots of places to buy news ones.

  8. Frank McElroy's post in Dash Air Condenser Fan Not Running was marked as the answer   
    This fan is powered from the rear Kongsberg CCM located in the ceiling of the first bay behind the steer axle.  The panel between the frame rails will need to be removed to gain access.  Open the black CCM cover and the 30 amp fuse F2 and relay K3 are for the condenser fan motor.  Most times this motor goes bad and pops the fuse.
  9. Frank McElroy's post in How to remove the chrome cap on the tag axle on a 2011 Monaco Diplomat was marked as the answer   
    I use a short flat blade screw driver.  Look around the edge and you will see a place where the screw driver blade will fit in.  Once your push the blade in a bit the cap easily pops off.
  10. Frank McElroy's post in 2006 Dynasty ISL-400 Transmission Cooling Question was marked as the answer   
    Yes, that is your transmission heat exchanger.  Works like the oil cooler inside the block of the ISL.  Both are cooled and oil temps maintained at near the same temp as your engine coolant. 
  11. Frank McElroy's post in Rear axle flange nut torgue was marked as the answer   
    You should be able to find all the torque specs based on your axle model number it these files.
     
  12. Frank McElroy's post in Turbo Power loss Need help to diagnose was marked as the answer   
    You have a sticking turbo actuator or a sticking turbo VGT mechanism.  When you go from coasting or engine brake mode to acceleration and the boost goes to zero, the turbo is getting stuck in the engine brake mode as the engine ECM cycles the turbo actuator to clean out the carbon buildup..  After a few seconds, you should get boost back IF you take your foot off the throttle.  If you hold your foot on the throttle for more than about 20 seconds, a check engine light will come on saying that the turbo actuator is not responding.  If that's the case, the turbo and electronic actuator needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
  13. Frank McElroy's post in 2008 HR ISC - Sudden Dash Warning Light on - Can't Figure it Out -(SOLVED REGEN CYCLE) was marked as the answer   
    That is the HEST light.  The High Exhaust System Temperature light comes on during a diesel particulate filter regeneration cycle to warn you that exhaust temperatures are above 1,450 degrees F.  Normally it takes about 20 minutes for the cycle to complete. 
    Since it was only on for 5 minutes, you likely did not burn off all the soot in the DPF. 
    Your engine computer will determine if the pressure drop across the DPF is high enough to restart another Regen the next time you drive. 
    The best way to complete a Regen cycle is to drive at highway speed.  Speeds below about 40 mph, using the engine brake or climbing grades at full throttle will suspend the Regen cycle.  When the DPF dash light comes on it's telling you to drive the coach under conditions to do a DPF Regen.  (The DPF light doesn't necessarily mean the engine is actually doing a Regen.)
  14. Frank McElroy's post in Plastic "PUSH" Pop Rivets. was marked as the answer   
    Try page 140 of the parts list.  I know I bought way more than I needed a few years back.  If you need some, let me know and I'll send some to you.

     
    I think I actually bought them off amazon or Grainger.  Just can't remember.
  15. Frank McElroy's post in Adjust Aladdin voltage connected to Surgeguard ATS 40250 was marked as the answer   
    Take a look at the procedure over on irv2.
    https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/false-high-voltage-indication-surge-guard-40250-rvc-174405.html
  16. Frank McElroy's post in Glow Plug Torque Spec was marked as the answer   
    For your engine see page 61 - 11.0-14 ft.lbs. in the engine service manual.  For the Kubota engine see page S-12 in the engine service manual.  Here is a link to the manuals in our downloads files.
     
     
  17. Frank McElroy's post in Passenger slide extended 6-8" while driving was marked as the answer   
    Yes, you have a leaking valve.  Likely a small amount of debris is keeping it from fully seating.  When bringing in the slide hold the slide in button for a few seconds until you hear a pitch tone change from the pump.  This might clear the debris from the valve seat.  This file might help you if don't already have it.  (If you click on the title "HWH Hydraulic Flow Diagrams" you will get an option to download 9 individual files.  The last one is a diagram of the valve locations for the slides.)
     
  18. Frank McElroy's post in Another Air system problem was marked as the answer   
    My first thought is a sticking air governor.  Air up then fan the brakes to find the air compressor cut in pressure.  I bet it's way too low.
  19. Frank McElroy's post in New Dometic ACs and Stat but now no heat in bathroom was marked as the answer   
    Yes, I suspected that they didn't replace the 4th zone control board.  The old original board is not talking to the new circuit control boards in your new units.  In effect they need to replace the old circuit board with the same electronic board that is in your new AC units.  The manufacturer should have that specialty option just like Dometic did.
    Your 4th zone control board could be hidden in a wall almost anywhere but it will likely be in the wall behind the thermostat.  If your thermostat is mounted on a wall with a cabinet behind it, that cabinet will likely have a side interior wall that unscrews and the control circuit board is mounted behind that panel.

  20. Frank McElroy's post in Aquas hot blower in half bath won't come on was marked as the answer   
    When the aquahot motor for the main bath area is running, check to see if you are getting power to the motor in the 1/2 bath.  If you are getting power then the motor is bad.  If your not getting power to that motor, the problem is likely with the house Intellitec multiplex system (fuse, control module or wiring) feeding the fan motor in the 1/2 bath.
  21. Frank McElroy's post in 2008 Camelot AC Compressor Failure and Serpentine Belt issues - How to Proceed? was marked as the answer   
    There is a screen shot from the file Tom posted.  You might want to check fuse F26 in the front run bay.
    Here is a link to a complete set of drawings for a 2009 Camelot.  I suspect your 2008 will be close.
     

  22. Frank McElroy's post in Intellitec Multiplex System - What I Learned - Not That Complicated was marked as the answer   
    Thanks for the kind words.  You are correct.  Systems without the CPU's really are not that complicated once you understand how they work.  For your system, you were able to methodically figure out each keypad code, identify the blown fuse and identify where the previous owner basically modified the wiring to fix a blown fuse.  Your solution has now fixed your coach to factory new condition.  Well done!!!
    There are at least two members on this group who have software access to the Keypad modules and the CPU module.  Offline contact Paul Whittle or myself.
  23. Frank McElroy's post in Intellitec Multiplex Clear Plastic Button Panel Availability was marked as the answer   
    I see a few on Northwest RV supply.
    https://www.nwrvsupply.com/?s=Intellitec+keypad&post_type=product&type_aws=true
  24. Frank McElroy's post in Differential oil discussion - Type, Brand, Capacity, etc.capacity was marked as the answer   
    Dana has a list of approved gear oils.  Mine came from the factory with synthetic gear oil and I kept it that way when I changed it.  As Tom mentioned, Mobil Delvac 75W90 synthetic is on the Dana approved list as are many other oils.  Attached is their list of approved oils.  Just because an oil says it meets the spec, that doesn't mean Dana will put it on their approved list.
     
    DCVS-51049.pdf
  25. Frank McElroy's post in Entry door screens was marked as the answer   
    Ken - Thank you for sending me the info.  I'll include it in the next parts list update.  Much appreciated.
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