Replacement Whirlpool Micro/Convection/Fryer failed. Any ideas?

[djlgnd]

unit is a whirlpool micro/convection/air fryer everything works but not generating heat. What is wrong? How do I rectify?

Help with ideas and solutions

[Tom Cherry]

Suggest you start googling and use the Whirlpool Model Number or name.  Lots…..way LOTS of information on basic Microwave repairs out there.  The specifics here are largely for the OEM Sharps.  

YouTube is cluttered with more HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT and FIX….than you could view, non stop, for a week,  Amazon usually has all the common parts.  Fuses are first….then the diode(s) and finally the “Magnetron”. WARNING….replacing a magnetron without following instructions and testing the interlocking door and seals can be hazardous….especially to anyone with a pacemaker….

In the US, these are mostly THROWAWAY.  But some shops will work on the Convection models. Your biggest, or perhaps the most common issue.  Where are all the hidden or are there HIDDEN side screws.  Monaco mounted the OEM several different ways and some had hidden screws from the side cabinet driven into the main metal cabinet.  NOT ALL did….but don’t be surprised if you pull all the top retaining screws and it doesn’t “drop down”.  It HAS to be out for service…

Good Luck.

[djlgnd]

It is Brand new right out of box, i am thinking not enough juice need a bigger power cable

Just now, djlgnd said:

It is Brand new right out of box, i am thinking not enough juice need a bigger power cable

i have a danby unit that has same features but is counter top and it works just fine. but it is smaller and no fan or vent

[jacwjames]

What amperage breaker is used to feed the microwave, the wiring should be sized for that breaker.

My coach is a 20 amp breaker.  Most residential microwaves require a 20 amp breaker, I installed a GE Profile microwave convection unit in our house and I sized the wiring that was recommended, which was 20 amp. 

East test, get an extension cord rated for 20 amps, plug it into an outlet from an outside source and see if the microwave works.  If it does I start checking connections in the outlet that you plug the microwave into and any J-Boxes that the wiring may go through. 

[Tom Cherry]

The 2003 Camelot is not a DUAL IN/DUAL OUT. Odds are....it has a 15 or maybe a 20 amp pin or maybe a "switch" breaker or fuse on the inverter.

Please take a picture of the side or the panel of the inverter that has two breakers or fuses....you may have a Magnum with pin breakers. 

THEN....look at the specs on the NEW microwave.  What is the power requirement? The Microwave circuit is a dedicated on coming from the internal subpanel or "splitter" in the Inverter.

If you have ordered one that is too large or "overloaded", then odds are...it would have tripped these sensitive breakers. I would run a test. Get a dedicated #12 Gauge extension cord and run it from the house or a suitable receptacle....IF YOU NEED 15 Amps, then fine...or if you can find a 20 Amp. 

I really wonder if your "NEW" out of the box microwave has an internal issue.  Would NOT be the first time.  NOW this assumes that the new Microwave is plugged into the dedicated outlet in the cabinet above it.  If it is running off the GFCI then that 20 Amp could be slightly overloaded when you need full power.  BUT AGAIN, the breaker on the inverter should trip. You probably have a dedicated, NON INVERTER, Block Heater.  Check the location.  Check the Circuit Breaker rating or size. 

I am a bit suspicious....at first, the posts indicated a failure after use.  BUT, now, if this is an out of the box failure, you need another VOLTAGE Source to test...  The problem may be internal....so since it it new....warranty.

NEVER PIN A PROBLEM on MH wiring without testing an appliance on a KNOWN or good residential service...  THIS has happened before and the time and trouble and expense of chasing the issue or ghost....was extensive and frustrating....

 

[djlgnd]

19 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

The 2003 Camelot is not a DUAL IN/DUAL OUT. Odds are....it has a 15 or maybe a 20 amp pin or maybe a "switch" breaker or fuse on the inverter.

Please take a picture of the side or the panel of the inverter that has two breakers or fuses....you may have a Magnum with pin breakers. 

THEN....look at the specs on the NEW microwave.  What is the power requirement? The Microwave circuit is a dedicated on coming from the internal subpanel or "splitter" in the Inverter.

If you have ordered one that is too large or "overloaded", then odds are...it would have tripped these sensitive breakers. I would run a test. Get a dedicated #12 Gauge extension cord and run it from the house or a suitable receptacle....IF YOU NEED 15 Amps, then fine...or if you can find a 20 Amp. 

I really wonder if your "NEW" out of the box microwave has an internal issue.  Would NOT be the first time.  NOW this assumes that the new Microwave is plugged into the dedicated outlet in the cabinet above it.  If it is running off the GFCI then that 20 Amp could be slightly overloaded when you need full power.  BUT AGAIN, the breaker on the inverter should trip. You probably have a dedicated, NON INVERTER, Block Heater.  Check the location.  Check the Circuit Breaker rating or size. 

I am a bit suspicious....at first, the posts indicated a failure after use.  BUT, now, if this is an out of the box failure, you need another VOLTAGE Source to test...  The problem may be internal....so since it it new....warranty.

NEVER PIN A PROBLEM on MH wiring without testing an appliance on a KNOWN or good residential service...  THIS has happened before and the time and trouble and expense of chasing the issue or ghost....was extensive and frustrating....

 

thank you, i have 2- 20 amp breakers on the 2012 inverter and a dedicated line, . could it be a weak breaker? going to do all the above and again thank you

 

22 hours ago, jacwjames said:

What amperage breaker is used to feed the microwave, the wiring should be sized for that breaker.

My coach is a 20 amp breaker.  Most residential microwaves require a 20 amp breaker, I installed a GE Profile microwave convection unit in our house and I sized the wiring that was recommended, which was 20 amp. 

East test, get an extension cord rated for 20 amps, plug it into an outlet from an outside source and see if the microwave works.  If it does I start checking connections in the outlet that you plug the microwave into and any J-Boxes that the wiring may go through. 

plugged above in the cabinet have dual 20 amp breakers on converter, thinking a weak breaker. thnx for the info