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Windshield PS Shade Won't Go Down - Repaired


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This is a bit of an unusual repair story so I thought I'd share it.

Received a private message from a member with a 2007 Dynasty that the windshield  passenger side shade would go up but not down.  The driver's side shade worked just fine.  He correctly diagnosed the problem as being an issue with the Intellitec PCB #11 in the front run bay.  Not being able to find a replacement at a salvage yard, he sent it to me for repair.

I initially thought it was a failed relay but nope, a corroded trace on the PCB was the problem.  I fixed the board by adding a wire to the back side. 

This is the first time in a long time that I found a problem to be a bad trace on one of the PCB's in the FRB.  This is a good example of making sure power is getting to the relay before just assuming that you have a bad relay.

PXL_20240409_205824031.jpg

PXL_20240409_205759383.jpg

38040029 (Schematic, FRB Board 11).pdf

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Frank;

How do do with the Intellitec EMS board. I think I have a bad relay for Front AC. Had Board replaced and all is well. Of course the wallet took a hit. This is on a 2008 Monaco Camelot. 
Just figured I would ask so I would have a spare to carry around.

You guys are great.

Sincerely,

David Gomes

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2 hours ago, Seaplane said:

Frank;

How do do with the Intellitec EMS board. I think I have a bad relay for Front AC. Had Board replaced and all is well. Of course the wallet took a hit. This is on a 2008 Monaco Camelot. 
Just figured I would ask so I would have a spare to carry around.

You guys are great.

Sincerely,

David Gomes

Its is very likely that the relay controlling the AC is bad.  These relays aren't FLA relays designed to switch power to the AC units.  They were supposed to be controlling the low voltage input from the thermostat.  But that's not how Monaco wired them.  That's why we see a lot of folks posting that their board has failed.  Honestly, the power management system is a nice convenience but if you know your shore power output and what high draw units you have on the same circuit, you can manually do the same thing that the EMS does automatically. 

Now, if you want to repair your bad circuit board, I'd first measure the resistance between the power pins and the relay contacts and the relay coil to the controller to be sure the board is good.  If you hear the relay clicking but no power output to the AC then you know that the control circuit is good.  On the top of the relay, you'll find a part number.  A google search will likely get a hit.  There are a few good electronic supply houses where you'll likely find a direct replacement.  I like Mouser and DigiKey.  There are other good ones out there too.  The rest will depend on your soldering skills.  If you don't have a hot air soldering station, you'll need to first remove the solder from all relay pin connections with a solder sucker or braided copper solder removal wick.  Alternatively, most local computer repair shops would likely remove and replace the relay for you.

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Thank you Frank. We are heading North in a few days and I will take that information under advisement and  see if I could find one of those Computer Techs or circuit board shop to complete the repair for me. I’m not sure that my soldering skills would allow me to do that repair successfully. I believe I would be better off paying a professional rather than ruin the entire board.
You guys are awesome! Trying to keep the old Coach going, I don’t think I would be as successful as I’ve been without you fellas.

Sincererly, 

David Gomes

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On 4/11/2024 at 10:48 AM, Garry Donohue said:

That’s exactly what is happening to me. Except the opposite…The passenger shade is fine. The driver shade will go up, but will not go down.

@Garry Donohue

PM @Frank McElroy.  He is an electonics wizard.  He will repair and test the board.

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