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2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges


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I have a 2005 Camelot 40 pdq and I need pictures of how two of the dash gauges are wired up. Oil pressure and volts gauge. Any pics would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges

Odds are....they are Medallion.  There is NO Monaco Prints that I have seen or found...and the 2005 was one of the unique years where the Scepter, Camelot and Windsor were all the SAME MH...just badged differently. I also pulled the owner's manual and the Sales Brochure as well looked at the gauge cluster....IT "LOOKS" like a MEDALLION cluster...

SO, the only way to get an REAL information, unless someone can take specific shots and that MUST be from a 2006...not other years.

Use your Phone or get a spy camera.  Get the Name and Model or PN from either of the two large gauges.  Then do some googling or call Medallion.  They will have prints and they will send you a layout of the connector(s) on THEIR END.  That will have the Pin Out or the description of which input goes where.  

FWIW...I think and am pretty sure...that the Large Gauges have a Pigtail that runs to each of the smaller gauges.  Thus, there is NO direct connection from Monaco to them.  The large or multipin connections go to each...and then, they branch out to the individual gauges.

That's my experience...but who KNOWS.  Regardless, no matter what Brand you have, Monaco never provided any "CONNECTION" inputs....or if they did, they were very limited...So I'd do some snooping and identify the Brand and Model Number and then pester the manufacturer for prints.

Good Luck.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Dave Shackelford said:

I have a 2005 Camelot 40 pdq and I need pictures of how two of the dash gauges are wired up. Oil pressure and volts gauge. Any pics would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

OilPressure3.thumb.jpg.fb44fe0d1491775f2337614c92ee9fa7.jpgOilPressure3.thumb.jpg.fb44fe0d1491775f2337614c92ee9fa7.jpg

OIl Pressure 2.jpg

Oil Pressure 1.jpg

Edited by Dave Shackelford
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Dave,

You are not, unfortunately, getting a lot of response.  That is regrettable....but here goes...I spent some time this morning.

The Gauge you have, if you google the PN is listed on SummitRV Parts (Ebay).  NO INFO...just a NEW ONE.  DEAD END?  Maybe? But you might contact the seller and get information on the vendor.

At this point, again, you need to shoot a picture of the back of your gages and find the vendor... However, I kept digging.  

Here is a drawing from a 2006 Diplomat (Monaco was "standardizing" like mad)...and it should help you.

Blow it up.  There are FOUR connections on the gauge.  The two center nuts are the "MOUNTS" and are NOT electrical contacts.

The spade Lug on the top, next to the LIGHT is the SAME lead that goes to the others.  It is the DASH Gauge Bulb.  So, find a one on another gauge...and it will work. I don't know exactly, what the issue is...but this will work for BOTH...

The S Terminal on the LEFT is the SIGNAL from the Oil Pressure Sensor..  NOW, if that has been "cut or destroyed", then a lot of toning and tracing will be needed.

The "I" or the RIGHT terminal is Ignition.... or the 12 VDC.  The Oil Pressure sensor sends back a "regulated" ground signal....thus, with positive on the RIGHT, then the gauge will read correcly...

The Voltmeter is a bit of a "quandary" for me.  We have folks that know more about the gauge and such... However, if you follow the wiring...there is NO "S" signal.  There is a wire that goes back to a plug and it is labeled as VOLTMETER.  That MIGHT be the infamous "Alt-Fail" wire that drives everyone crazy.

Hopefully SOME will chime in.

That's it...

Good Luck...

dash cluster - Dip & Endeavor 2006.pdf

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Like Tom said, the I is ignition wire, it will be looped to all the other gauges also.  The L is light and will be looped to all the other gauges L terminals.  And the sensor goes to the sensor on the engine, you can connect that to ground and the gauge should go to "full/high" showing the gauge is working, and zero with the sensor terminal disconnected.  The light will need a ground, so I'll guess that the silver nut is where you hook the ground, but check the other gauges like water temp to see what the ground is hooked to.  On my Safari, the 12V grounds are WHITE! which takes me a while to wrap my head around.  Just saying that the colors from one motorhome to another could be meaningless, but you can trace the wires from the other gauges. 

The voltmeter shouldn't need a sensor, it just reads the I terminal voltage and grounds through the same ground as the light.  It looks like the "alt charge" warning light under the turn signal arrow in that diagram, and goes to the "alt fail" wire, could still be the same basic alternator warning light that's been around since alternators took over from generators and amp meters.  If that's the case, then that light must light up with the ignition on but before starting the engine, or the alternator won't charge on some alternators, it's also not totally reliable, the light can function but still not come on when the alternator fails, it measures the alternator excite current, not output volts like the volt gauge.  Being a 2005, it's possible that the alt charge light is computer controlled and none of this applies...

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37 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

Like Tom said, the I is ignition wire, it will be looped to all the other gauges also.  The L is light and will be looped to all the other gauges L terminals.  And the sensor goes to the sensor on the engine, you can connect that to ground and the gauge should go to "full/high" showing the gauge is working, and zero with the sensor terminal disconnected.  The light will need a ground, so I'll guess that the silver nut is where you hook the ground, but check the other gauges like water temp to see what the ground is hooked to.  On my Safari, the 12V grounds are WHITE! which takes me a while to wrap my head around.  Just saying that the colors from one motorhome to another could be meaningless, but you can trace the wires from the other gauges. 

The voltmeter shouldn't need a sensor, it just reads the I terminal voltage and grounds through the same ground as the light.  It looks like the "alt charge" warning light under the turn signal arrow in that diagram, and goes to the "alt fail" wire, could still be the same basic alternator warning light that's been around since alternators took over from generators and amp meters.  If that's the case, then that light must light up with the ignition on but before starting the engine, or the alternator won't charge on some alternators, it's also not totally reliable, the light can function but still not come on when the alternator fails, it measures the alternator excite current, not output volts like the volt gauge.  Being a 2005, it's possible that the alt charge light is computer controlled and none of this applies...

Benjamin is probably correct.  Forgot that the ALT-FAIL is a warning light.  Therefore, any IGNITION ON wire, that is reading the Charging Voltage should work.  Suspect that the OTHER side of the gauge is going to GROUND....since it is NOT hooked up.

I also looked at a 2001 Dynasty that had the ENTIRE main wiring harness from front to rear.  There is NOT a single wire marked "VOLTMETER".  All the other usual suspects are there....such as the Oil Pressure wire.  SO...Ignition on the VOLTMETER is probably the correct hookup...

Would be worth a try...  I would actually HOOK it up.  The Ground for the "Gauge" Light is probably connected.  SO, LOOK at the Gauge, See the Tab from the light (black plastic).  Where does it go.  Probably to the one of the BACK Mounting Studs...  my GUESS...the one on the RIGHT.  Use your VOM.  Check that.  Then, take a 2 amp inline fused lead from an ignition source...put in on the I terminal below.

BINGO....or maybe VIOLA?  If the Gauge reads Volts...  Then that is IT 

NOW remember, that you also need the GROUND wire, from somewhere, on the Oil as well as PROBABLY the same terminal as the Volts.

Good Luck...  Let us know.

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1 hour ago, DZZippy said:

I think this will be of some use. You will have to zoom in and very slowly trace throughout but does have the gauges within the print. The first attachment was for 04 / 05 Model Years including your model (and mine). The second attachment is labeled "Imperial" Dash and may be of some usage.

05 Electrical Layout.pdf 596.2 kB · 4 downloads

05 Imperial Dash.pdf 366.36 kB · 1 download

OK....now THIS is becoming a real CHALLENGE....

Kurtis, Thanks for the Prints.

I blew up the Imperial.  The studs on the back are totally different....

BUT, I blew up the Color and then saved it as a Photoshop and then turned up the CONTRAST and converted to Black and White.  YES...That was an interesting experiment.

THEN, using a blown up image on the screen and a hand held magnifying glass.... I was able to find BOTH circuits.

OK...

@Dave Shackelford

The MYSTERY is solved.  The original post that shows HOW to run the wires for the meters are correct.  

The OIL PRESSURE Signal is a GROUND from the sender.  It is to be wired like my post....  All you have to do is find the wires and follow the instructions.  That is HOW it is wiredd.

NOW...to the PESKY VOLTMETER.  Benjamin and myself were correct.  ANY GOOD 12 VDC will work.  BUT, just to be sure...  If you blow up the B&W Print and keep looking....eventually, if you are persistent enough...you find the wire... VOLT METER.  That sucker, due to the orientation as well as finding the right level to "blow it up" to maintain resolution...so you can read with a hand lens....it's HOME is in Box #2.  I had to pull the manual.  On page 256 of the Manual, there is a legend or diagram of Box 2.  The wire is in the 4 fuses on the lower right.  It comes from the BACKUP LAMP FUSE.  Now...if you care to chase...that is about at the intersection of E and the mark between 4 & 5.  Follow "E"....actually the top bar of "E"....then trace of move it to where the mark between 4 & 5 are...That is BOX 2.  I can read Voltmeter...and it is hooked up to the BACKUP LIGHT FUSE.

SO, as Benjamin and I said....any IGNITION ON wire under the dash will do.  IF you want to go to Box 2....and then put a toner on the Backup Lamp wire (outgoing...with no power when fuse is off)...then tone that out.  ODDS ARE...you will find it up front.  

Now, I have NO IDEA as to why or how the wiring got removed and such...but this solves it.

NOW...on to another chase.  LOL...

DZZippy 05 Electrical Layout - PHOTOSHOPPED BLACK & WHITE.pdf

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Ok guys, Many thanks for the diagrams. I will go through them one gauge at a time and get them working.

many thanks,

Dave

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2 hours ago, Dave Shackelford said:

Found the wiring diagram to the 2005 Camelot 40 pdq. For your files….

Dave

IMG_0008.jpeg

Good DEAL.  The wiring in it is exactly like the one I posted early on.  SO…we agree.

Then, start probimg wires….hook it back up like Benjamin and I posted.  The Voltmeter lead can be ANY 12 VDC Switched ON lead.

Don’t know how the wiring and such got removed and “lost”.  If it were me….I’d go back to the Oil Pressure sensor on the engine.  Remove the wire from the terminal.  Use a 40 ft or so length of #16 or so hookup wire.  Attach it to it.  Take the other end up front.  Attach (alligator clip) to one of the DVOM terminals.  Then set the DVOM to OHMS or Continuity.  Start probing.  Once you have the BEEP (mine is audible as well).  That’s the OIL pressure wire.

Piece of cake from there on….

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