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I have a water leak on my Sani-Con system at the elbow. It's where the barb enters the elbow. I would prefer replacing before I attempt glue repair. Part number and descrion along with the image.

(9)   70440 Barbed Elbow
(10)  70466 90° Elbow




Sani elbow.jpg


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Google is your friend.  One place has both.  $100 or so for the first and $75 or so for the second….another has the 70440 for under $10.  Crazy…one sight says special order but 15 sold recently.

Personally, JB Plastic Weld would be my fix.  Was used successfully a week or so ago on a black PVC drain pipe with a BIG Crack. I’ve fixed higher pressure cracks in underground irrigation fittings and it works and lasts….

Call Thetford and ask them for a price.

Unless you have a humongous joint or the fitting is stressed or crazed, should be easily fixable.

Good Luck…

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Hi Tom, I saw the $100 and $75 and ruled both out for obvious reasons. I plan to call Thetford in the morning and JB is my fall back. I wanted to check to see if I was missing another option.



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That part #10 is indeed a 90° elbow, but it’s simply 3/4 PVC with two short pieces of 3/4 PVC pipe glued in. The 3/4 PVC has a 1” outside diameter (“OD”) dimension that matches the inside dimension (“ID”) of the 1-inch SaniCon hose and the 1-inch clear plastic hose that connects to the pump.

The part #9 is a standard barbed fitting, a 90° elbow, I think 1/4” male pipe thread (“MPT”) on one side and 1/4” or 3/8” barbed on the other. 

Together, they should cost less than $10 at any home improvement or supply house.

The only tricky part is drilling and tapping the PVC elbow to accept the threaded end of the barbed fitting, and if entrepreneurs are charging $90 for that procedure, more power to them. I would think that I would buy a cheap pipe thread tap and die set at Harbor Freight or Amazon before shelling out $100, but that’s just me.

My “gray bypass” seemed to constantly need unplugging, so I eliminated it. I made a new “part #10” from stuff at Home Depot for a couple of bucks and put a simple plug in the bypass line for a couple of bucks more. Later, I redesigned the larger flexible hose (part #13 in the diagram), and eliminated the other end of the bypass as well.

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