Belt-line repair on '97 Dynasty; which rivets should I use?

[RoadTripper2084]

So I'm preparing to fix my loose beltline problems once and for all.  I've studied the youtube videos but am seeing a few differences on the types and even lengths of rivets used.  So before I place my order I wanted to get confirmation:

In this video:

...which is from a 2001 model (mine is 1997), he used aluminum rivets, .626" - .750" material length:

On this video:

...which is from a newer 2006 model, they uses 18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets, Domed Head, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.751"-0.875" Material Thickness. So slightly longer rivets (and stainless).

I *believe* both of these newer coaches use aluminum frames, and that the beltline channel material is also aluminum. Isn't there a concern of mixing stainless steel rivets with aluminum materials, couldn't that result in galvanic corrosion between the rivet and the frame+channel?

My '97 coach has a steel frame, and aluminum beltline.  Should I go with the 18-8 stainless rivets, or I could get aluminum rivets with steel pins for 1/3 the price.

Thoughts?

 

 

 

[timaz996]

"Isn't there a concern of mixing stainless steel rivets with aluminum materials, couldn't that result in galvanic corrosion between the rivet and the frame+channel?" I would say yes. And the quality of the "stainless" will matter. There is a difference in the quality of stainless material these days. Make sure it's not just an American company, but manufactured in the US. I've seen so called "stainless" that a magnet reacted to.

[Russ R]

This link tells you how and what to use. This is a post from Chris Talin of Talin RV. Who most consider to be the expert.  The rivets should be 304 Stainless 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1377453912350209/permalink/5292789360816625

[Benjamin]

Aluminum in aluminum should be fine, but not as strong as Stainless Steel.  Aluminum in a steel frame would be fine most of the time, but if there's condensation on the inside, then the aluminum will protect the steel, galvanically speaking, and you don't want the smaller piece protecting the bigger piece.  A SS rivet in aluminum will work best because the SS is more noble than the Al, so the larger Al surface will protect the SS, and they should both be a passive surface so the corrosion will be minimal, if you don't get salt or pollution on it. 

[jacwjames]

I had to repair a section of belt line, passenger side starting at about the bedroom window, all the way back and down and then forward ~15 ft.  Had to remove that section of belt line to fix a leak.  The leak ran down the rear belt line and almost every screw was rusted off and the one that weren't rusted off broke off when I tried to get them out.   Lots of rivets.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K8RPCVJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I bought stainless rivets, jobber packs of the right size drill, and a pneumatic rivet gun which made quick work of the job.  I followed the recommendations from @throgmartin, figured might as well listen and follow the advise from someone who made a living at it.. 

Edited May 29 by jacwjames

[RoadTripper2084]

30 minutes ago, Russ R said:

This link tells you how and what to use. This is a post from Chris Talin of Talin RV. Who most consider to be the expert.  The rivets should be 304 Stainless 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1377453912350209/permalink/5292789360816625

Thanks, but I'm not on Facebook.  Would you be able to re-post the contents here?

 

17 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

Aluminum in aluminum should be fine, but not as strong as Stainless Steel.  Aluminum in a steel frame would be fine most of the time, but if there's condensation on the inside, then the aluminum will protect the steel, galvanically speaking, and you don't want the smaller piece protecting the bigger piece.  A SS rivet in aluminum will work best because the SS is more noble than the Al, so the larger Al surface will protect the SS, and they should both be a passive surface so the corrosion will be minimal, if you don't get salt or pollution on it. 

Thank you for the detailed explanation, makes sense.  

 

47 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

"Isn't there a concern of mixing stainless steel rivets with aluminum materials, couldn't that result in galvanic corrosion between the rivet and the frame+channel?" I would say yes. And the quality of the "stainless" will matter. There is a difference in the quality of stainless material these days. Make sure it's not just an American company, but manufactured in the US. I've seen so called "stainless" that a magnet reacted to.

I'm sourcing these from these guys (Canadian) https://www.accufastinc.com since they are a bit more local to me here. 

[timaz996]

3 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Thanks, but I'm not on Facebook.  Would you be able to re-post the contents here?

 

Thank you for the detailed explanation, makes sense.  

 

I'm sourcing these from these guys (Canadian) https://www.accufastinc.com since they are a bit more local to me here. 

Use a decently strong magnet to check them for any magnetic value. That will tell you if there’s any iron content in the rivet.

[Russ R]

The Monaco Upper Belt Line video from May of 2023 you have is the proper way to do it.

[Paul J A]

Aluminum stretches under load. 

[RoadTripper2084]

Okay, I've got all my parts I think. Not sure when I'll start this but I plan on proceeding with the upper DS beltline, as it is in the worse condition. I'm going to try to do 1/3 segments at a time if I can (front 1/3, middle 1/3, rear 1/3). It'll just be me working on a ladder so will be slower going for sure.

I ended up with a full box of 500 rivets, paid for a box of 250 so not sure where they went wrong, perhaps the fellow who took my order said screw it and sent to 500 anyway. I'm sure my order is next to nothing compared to their commercial/industrial customers anyway.