Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?

[Rthomp1122]

We have a Dometic NDA1202 Refrigerator in our 08 Diplomat 40SKQ. The refrigerator side temp is adjustable and is working great on both Gas and electricity. we're having trouble with the freezer. It runs around 25 to 30 degrees, and it is not adjustable.  It is supposed to come preset from the factory at 0 degrees when using elect. and 7 degrees when on gas.  It was working fine until about a month ago. There are no codes We keep the coach plugged into shore power when sitting at home. Does anyone have any experience with this model?

Thanks,

Rich

[96 EVO]

16 hours ago, Rthomp1122 said:

We have a Dometic NDA1202  Does anyone have any experience with this model?

Thanks,

Rich

Never heard of it. Thinking you may be talking NDA 1402?

Is the fridge level where you park?

[96 EVO]

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/dometic-freezer-temp-sensor-647379.html#post6798242

[diplomat don]

Don't know which Auburn your in but I would call ES Appliance Repair in Mesa AZ. Eric has been great to us and anyone we have recommended him too. Tells you straight up whether fixable or not. 480-207-8999 call or text. Good Luck, Don

[Tom Cherry]

Assume you might mean the 1402.  Had one.  It was not always the coldest and was very vulnerable, as to recovery, when you loaded the fresh side.  Replaced with a Samsung.

DID a LOT of things to it to improve it....  Attached is the Service Manual...the latest one.  You may or may not have run through the entire reset or reboot.  That should give you some codes....or at least it did on mine on occasion.  Do the complete reboot and diagnostic routine.... Good Luck.

This is also in our FILES.  Use Dometic as the Key Word Search.  Two Choices...  Click on Everywhere and choose FILES.  Then you will find the manual there.

BUT, if you want to search the TOPICS.  Use the Following   DOMETIC 1402 or DOMETIC FREEZER...  maybe some others.  This time us TOPICS and you will get all the topics and posts.  Don't remember if this has come up, but this would be the best research approach here.

BTW, if is a requirement of starting a new thread, to do a SEARCH.  This is how you do it, for future reference.

NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf

[Patricia Ferrara]

Hello Rich,

We also have the Dometic 1402 in our 2008 Diplomat (ice maker & dispenser died so we just recently removed both). We’ve also had some issues from time to time with both fridge & freezer not getting cold enough. Found that the automatic defrost cycle was not functioning, so we ended up with major frost on fins in fridge, & the freezer had solid ice in the top rear & right side. Took all day with a hair dryer to melt all of the ice & another 24 hours to get temps down enough to load in food.

Long story short: make sure you don’t have frost/ice buildup, and that your defrost cycle is functioning. Otherwise, you will have to do as we now do, and start a manual defrost cycle on a regular basis to keep it running properly. Eventually, we’ll end up replacing it with a residential unit similar to one that Tom Cherry put in his.

Best of luck!

Patti

[Rthomp1122]

Thank you all for the help.  I've got some research and testing to do.  Oh! My bad!  It is a Dometic 1402.  (Fat Thumbs) 

[rpasetto]

On 6/9/2024 at 12:29 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Assume you might mean the 1402.  Had one.  It was not always the coldest and was very vulnerable, as to recovery, when you loaded the fresh side.  Replaced with a Samsung.

DID a LOT of things to it to improve it....  Attached is the Service Manual...the latest one.  You may or may not have run through the entire reset or reboot.  That should give you some codes....or at least it did on mine on occasion.  Do the complete reboot and diagnostic routine.... Good Luck.

This is also in our FILES.  Use Dometic as the Key Word Search.  Two Choices...  Click on Everywhere and choose FILES.  Then you will find the manual there.

BUT, if you want to search the TOPICS.  Use the Following   DOMETIC 1402 or DOMETIC FREEZER...  maybe some others.  This time us TOPICS and you will get all the topics and posts.  Don't remember if this has come up, but this would be the best research approach here.

BTW, if is a requirement of starting a new thread, to do a SEARCH.  This is how you do it, for future reference.

NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf 3.05 MB · 5 downloads

Hello Tom,  Getting to the point with our Dometic NDA 1402 that I am planning replacement.  I had replaced a Notcold 1200 with a Samsung RF197 years back so am thinking in that direction again.  Looked over the 1402 to see how it differs from the 1200; I want to get it out with as less hassle as I can.  Looks like step 1, after removing doors on the NDA 1402, is getting the plastic trim around it off; then Not sure what I'll find after that.  Was there anything unusual/difficult in pulling out the 1402?

[Tom Cherry]

There are MEGA discussions about replacement here. I edited the title to have that as an option as there have not, memory, been any recent ones. Ordinarily if you searched, as below, you would have found info below and then started a new topic for you model. However, adding replacement is allowed due to the overall interest...as the gas units die.. Here is one searches....

Refrigerator Replacement in the search box. Click on Everywhere. Select Topics.  This provides all the posts where those two terms are used. Here is the result.

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/

Next, use Refrigerator and from Everywhere, choose Files.

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=refrigerator&quick=1&type=downloads_file

In the TOPICS, start scrolling and reading. The ones with 25 - 60 posts are chocked full of information.

The FILES dates back to one of our founders. It also has information as you will need a DOOR LOCK...since none of the RES REF come with such.

Having done mine...here is an bullet outline of what I know, others have posted, and my own experience.

• Measure MANY TIMES. You probably has an Aquahot.  That simplifies it. The Res Ref were common in the 2008 Dynasty, so this is NOT as big a deal as early models.
• You have a subpanel, so you use the ICEMAKER receptacle. SIMPLE.  Others in lower models have a more difficult issue in that the single GFCI controls the ICEMAKER. NOT GOOD. That is prone to tripping. RESEARCH IT. But the fix is to isolate the Icemaker line by pulling the LOAD Romex off the GFCI. Replace the GFCI, out of general maintenance, as well, as the AGE POORLY. If the OUTLETS near the sinks are on ONCE piece of Romex and the Icemaker is on the other (with other ones up front), then you move the ICEMAKER Romex to the LINE side. Problem solved. Still SAFE and meets NEC.
• The factory units, circa your year, came with a 2,800 Watt Inverter. The stock 2,000 Watt works. SO, USE IT. Most of the Modified (Magnum ME Series) work OK with the RES REF...Samsung is fine. Read the manual or call other vendors and ask is a PURE SINE WAVE inverter is required.
• REMOVE ALL THE INTERIOR insulation attached to the walls or the gas refrigerator. DO NOT PUT ANY insulation back. Air Circulation is needed for proper operation. The insulation was to keep your conditioned HVAC inside and prevent possible CO fumes. 
• FOLLOWUP ON THE ABOVE. You have to INSULATE the Bottom Refer Access panel. Also the SIDE louvers, if they are in the side Frame. Simply...the NEW Energy Star REF were NOT DESIGNED for outdoor use...COMMON COMPLAINT. Lowes sells all sorts of Styrofoam insulation...and also Garage Door panels. Use a Serrated knife and cut blocks to go inside the louvers. A dab of Gorilla glue with laminate if you need more layers. When the Foam in the louvers is flush with the backside...you can use a THIN Panel of Styrofoam (cut out for the latches to work) and also metallic HVAC tape. Be Creative...we all have done this. Use a layer of tape on the backside of the frame if louvers are there.
• Do the TOP VENT, if you have one.  Otherwise, pull the Roof Vent off and stuff in the PINK Stuff.  You have GOT to shut off the outside air. NOW the sides and top and bottom must be CLEAR so that the interior conditioned HVAC air circulates.  JUST LIKE AT HOME.
• MOST installers pull out a side window and use a lift and slide the refrigerator INSIDE...doors OFF. Some folks will manhandle in through the door...often having to pull the passenger seat. USE THICK Quilts (Packing) to pad the dash. Tape in place. Many have wedged them in and destroyed the dashes...but OTHERS do it with ease. 
• Once inside and assembled...extend the SIDE, if on one, and then fit in the refer. NOW if NOT on a slide, the UPPER VENT on the side is your  FRIEND.  You have to secure through it. Pull out all the sheet metal as that was for the FLUE...not needed. 
• Next is SECURING. Many ways.  NEVER, EVER drill into the side panel of a modern refrigerator. COILS in there. I had a vertical strip (1X1) and then added a second on the other side. I used a short piece of SS (had that...Aluminum would work) of "ANGLE. I had TWO pieces of the angle. One was cut down so that when you would PULL, if needed, the RES REF out, the top of the angle would clear the top frame. USE 3M VHB tape, the CLEAR...not the Black Auto. Has more PEEL BACK (180 deg) strength. I used an Oak 1 X 1 that was the width of the interior compartment, less 1/2". Then it gets tricky to explain. You are going to put in the REFER. You put the cross piece on TOP of the refrigerator...and it goes or rests against the BACK SIDE of the Vertical side strips. OR  just move the cross piece towards the front of the REF...and the side vertical strips with stop it. NOW...The Angle was maybe a 1" X 4". The angle fits UNDER the cross piece with the 1" side up. If you SLIDE each piece under the cross brace or piece.... A small squeeze clamp for small C clamps are used to keep the short side of the cross piece attached to the front side of the cross brace. NOW, with the Cross Piece pushed forward...against the vertical strips... MARK the FRONT EDGE of the ANGLE on top of the Refrigerator. BINGO.  NOW pull it our. You then use Double Stick Tape and laminate the angle to the top. TOTALLY COVER IT.  Then, you fit the cross piece in place. The ends are against the back edge of the Vertical pieces. The back edge or side of the angle is against the cross piece.  Drill TWO Holes in the angle.  Put in two #10 Wood screws (Hex head) and screw in. The REF is locked so it will NOT MOVE FORWARD.
• Then, dealer's choice on the back bottom. You can use angle on the sides or wooden blocks...just secure it so it doesn't move BACKWARDS or towards the outside wall.
• NOW...on MINE (the Camelots) the Dometic was on a SHELF.  Then UNDER that shelf, on the inside, was a drawer. The shelf had to come out...so that the Samsung would fit. AGAIN...Plan and MEASURE. I KNEW that if the drawer was removed and the cross rail cut off flush with the sides of the cabinet frame...it would FIT. BUT, the installer FORGET to take it all OUT. He cut the shelf off and used it as a BACKSTOP for the Refrigerator. GREAT... OPPS... AIR Circulation. I used a 2 or 3" hole saw and cut holes, maybe with 1" separating the sides, on that shelf. AIR can circulate and all is well.
• NEVER, as they did back in the dark ages when a conversion was done....DO ANY FACADE or dressing up the front cabinet. THAT restricts air flow. Some folks had auto trim shops make up vinyl strips and such. Others made finished frames. BAD...DOUBLE BAD. The Refrigerator runs TOO HOT. Don't sweat the sides or top. ALLOW FOR AIR.
• Next, there is a file on DOOR Locks and many have fabricated. I chose to order one from Amazon. The individual that made them has a web site and we talked.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/91_fridgefixer.php

https://www.facebook.com/FridgeFixer/

He is great. He now sells on Amazon. I will tell you, as many will, it WORKS and is easy to install.  MANY folks use other methods....so whatever floats your boat.

That's IT...now..

You WILL need to run the Genny about 2 hours every 24 Hours. You WILL need to replace, assuming you boondock or spend a night or so in a Walmart or other....the PUCK Lights. LED draws WAY LESS. You will NEED to operate the REFER on an ENERGY SETTING (reduced power). You will NEED to turnoff the ICEMAKER.

Doing the above keeps your batteries a LOT stronger.

You will be OK with a Four Bank House set...assuming, as usual, you maintain them. Here is a FILE on Battery in the Files section that describes how to get up to 10 years from Flooded.  AGM is nice, but if you abuse or don't set the Inverter properly...they die quicker. LITHIUMS are a whole different planet...

 

[rpasetto]

I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall.  However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow?  is fastened to the case of the refer.  Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any.  Also where else it is fastened in?

[96 EVO]

Rick, I'm sure there are members that have removed that exact fridge, but they are not responding!

I have that fridge, but I'm not prying off that trim piece just for a look!

Hopefully bringing your thread back to the top will get a response.

[rpasetto]

28 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Rick, I'm sure there are members that have removed that exact fridge, but they are not responding!

I have that fridge, but I'm not prying off that trim piece just for a look!

Hopefully bringing your thread back to the top will get a response.

I thought someone would remember or have the installation docs... But I found it here,   Instructions for installing into enclosure starts on page 5. The fastening locations ae not where I'd thought.  Might be useful for others.

https://documents.dometic.com/media/download/103912?templateId=0

[96 EVO]

Good find!

Let's hope Monaco followed the manufacturers mounting directions, which I found while removing a Sharp microwave, they didn't always do!

[Tom Cherry]

12 hours ago, rpasetto said:

I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall.  However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow?  is fastened to the case of the refer.  Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any.  Also where else it is fastened in?

The Dometic slides OUT.  You push it from behind or pull it out.  There is NOT, at least on mine, any MONACO facade.  Just an opening. Then you take off the doors.  Then get it out (window recommended).  Bring in the new one...doors OFF...  

Remove the insulation or the walls or if it was on the Dometic...it is GONE.  Add the vertical strip...my "interior cabinet" had one...NO REASON..but it was what made mine WORK with thy custom designed brackets. The installer said that the shop (it was a BIG shop...maybe 30 bays) was going to do this from now on and they took pictures and a video.

They were NOT aware of the need to INSULATE and close off the outside access panels.

As long as you can SLIDE OUT or pull or get the Dometic out....go from there.

YES...been there... MEASURED....designed the holding system....drew up a sketch....told the installer to use this..but if there was a better way...do it.

It worked...the only issue was they did NOT cut the shelf that the Dometic was on correctly. They should have realized to take it all the way back to the outer wall. I saw that...and just fixed it myself.

[scottknight]

Just to mention I found from other document's solutions (Norcold) that changing the location of the clip on thermoststate from one fin to another changes the cooling in the freezer \refrigerator, freezer getting the first cold energy then the regulation is in the refregeration portion . There is a method to retrieve error codes from digital readout on front of refrigerator temp readout. My risk is the firebox on these units. I discovered color changes of inside liner when cleaning bottom bin inside refrigarator which looks to be close to location of propane firebox. At that time i increased the space between the firebox and the wall of the refrigarator and keep that lower bin full of water bottles ( not too proud of this solution water bottles fire suppression) but keep looking at the efficient of going electric only. I read where people remove slides\ windshields 2 piece and i need to replace gaskets due to age \ partial dissemble \ front door and remove passenger chair use moving blankets conversion kits ect. I have a window next to the front door that might work. I have also seen burned up MH carcasses parked. I do have concerns about propane refrigerators. May need chair lift for wife so i dont want to use window option yet. 05 Knight . 37 ft MH, furnace under refridgerator . The rv  industry has made improvments in some of their products that help with decisions we as owners know it is how much $$ it takes to do it!