Scotty Hutto

1 hour ago, hmosey said:

Hello Everyone,

We purchased a Monaco Windsor as a project Rv, we have never owned and RV and trying to DIY this RV back to life. We have exterior damage which includes the trim piece( i will attach a picture). i contacted the dealership and they told me the trim was obsolete. Can anyone recommend how i can fix this issue? Where i can get this trim part? It looks like i need aluminum track and the rubber par?

 

Thank you in advance.

@throgmartin Chris, can you help?

I used Proflex on mine. Others will hopefully chime in, but I believe you should use butyl tape to actually set the window, then seal with Proflex. 

@pwhittle has a 2005 Sig (not sure if it has the ISM500).  He has the Insite software and could get a PDF of the parameters. 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyI_RpPOvUu/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Just to pile on… during my recent 6,000 mile RV trip, my fuel gauge stopped working about 1,000 miles into the trip. It’s always been very accurate… the rest of the trip I calculated fuel use and kept my tank at 1/2 (50 gal) or more. Got pretty good at it 😁

Email the form to Centroid and worked through troubleshooting (via email) with Joel in tech support. I learned a lot… MOST reading problems can be corrected by working with them.  In the end, my electronics in the head were bad (they are conformal coated and sealed in epoxy, so no repair), so I replaced it. Here’s a link to the form used:

http://www.centroidproducts.com/zTroubleshootingMonaco.pdf

The good news is a new sender was only $169, and the new ones are self-calibrating and more accurate (hey, technology does improve over a 17 years period. Sometimes). Bought it here (note: I didn’t link to my specific sender, because yours is likely different unless you have a 2006 Diplomat)

https://rveliteparts.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=Centroid*

Installed it today and all works well. 

@Ken Thompson Do you have any more? If not, where did you get the aluminum extrusion?  Long story short... my screen got run over and I need to make a new one from scratch... 

On 10/10/2023 at 7:43 AM, Dr4Film said:

Got to have one of those cameras! Could use it at the Monacoers Gathering if we ever have another one scheduled again.

Oh, we'll have one.  Somewhere, sometime.  Hopefully in 2025, but at the moment we're waiting to see what comes of the resort formerly known as Lazy Days... 

Frank,

Simply amazing! I’ve learned so much from you!

I’ve had similar experiences with my Garmin RV780. Most recent:

- Heading to Fort Mountain State Park in GA, rather than taking the straight shot up Hwy 52, it routed me down several “Big Rig Unfriendly” back roads, including 5 miles of dirt roads. (I specifically have unpaved roads as an avoidance)

- In Cody, WY, traveling down the main drag (4-lane, RV friendly), it wanted me to turn off and route through neighborhoods for two blocks, then get back on the same road. 🤷🏻‍♂️

My point? I’ve learned to check my route via another source, usually my old-school (and sometimes slightly out-of-date) printed atlas (remember those?) or at least another routing engine like Waze or Google maps (not RV friendly, but good to check road construction and detours), or the RVLife GPS app (RV Friendly, but not quite as “slick” as Waze… yet. It’s new, and they are improving it rapidly. I used to use CoPilot, but now prefer RVLife.  I don’t know that one’s really any better than the other, I just prefer the RVLife interface. YMMV.

I typically will have Waze running in the background (behind my TPMS app - or I’ll have Debbie fire it up on her phone) and will check it if Garmin wants me to do something that seems sketchy. 

On my 2006 Dip, the connector in the FRB only provides connection to the Bendix brake system and (I believe) the Allison ECM.  I think it’s a J1587 (?) interface, but the same connector as a J1708.  

Those connections are only available with the Bendix and Allison software and proper connectors to a PC. I don’t believe a scangauge will connect to them. 

Check out this thread, and in particular the info on Lisa Bauer. 
 

https://bauerrvupholstery.com/
 

I’ve found almost every kind of slide at Rockler (http://rockler.com). Not sure what length, etc, but I would check there. Might not be KV, but I called KV about a year ago and was told they didn’t make that model any longer. 

I also searched the OEM part number 08411635 on REV’s parts site, but they don’t have them  

The OEM description is “Drawer Slide, 24" Full Extension 200#”

Northwest RV *might* have them   They aren’t listed on the site, but they have a large inventory of Monaco brand parts that aren’t listed…

https://www.nwrvsupply.com/?s=Drawer+Slide%2C+24"+Full+Extension+200%23&post_type=product&type_aws=true

Finally, here’s an idea for an alternative…

https://www.rockler.com/accuride-3634ec-150-lb-over-travel-drawer-slides-with-easy-close

I agree with Don that the original Monroe shocks are likely worn out. You suggest you try http://shockwarehouse.com.  They might sell just the bushing. Another very helpful site is https://sourcerv.com

I think both places will likey try to sell you new shocks, but it’s worth a try. 

I also have a Flag Pole Buddy and am very pleased with it!

My daughter is a firefighter on the Haz-Mat team for Dekalb County here in Atlanta. They cover spaghetti junction (I-285 & I-85 - the busiest place in ATL) and if a Tesla catches on fire, they don’t even try to put it out.  They just try to keep the concrete cool so it doesn’t ruin the bridge or roadway…

Interesting Q&A by Mike Sokol on lithium batteries.  

https://open.substack.com/pub/rvelectricity/p/will-my-rv-lithium-battery-catch?r=1w1wi8&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email

Bob,

Good points.   When a coach sells, the owner is supposed to let us know, and we remove the post. 

Let me think about how to improve this. Suggestions are welcome…

The first step will be to clean up old posts. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Beautiful coach!

Just find a way to fix whatever breaks with whatever you have on hand… 😁

Your pic isn’t quite big enough for me to see if it’s like my coach…. But in my Diplomat, the wood trim piece covering the track comes off by removing 2-3 screws (mine are covered by plastic caps). That gives you full access and visibility to the slide mechanism. 

Judging based on the position of the plastic lever, it looks like it may have simply come “unclippped” from the trolley that rides on the slide track. If so, just lift the door so the pin fits back in the plastic lever locking mechanism, and close the lever.  

Hope that helps. 

Just a short additional update… came over the Big Horn mountains in Wyoming heading from Buffalo, WY to Cody, WY. Went from about 4,700’ elevation up to 9,645’ at the pass…. Temps never got over 203°F, and then only for a few seconds.  Stayed in the 188-194°F range most of the time. 

Right at 2,200 miles so far on the trip.

Very pleased with the performance of the new RSH brass/copper radiator so far. In 100°F temps in Nebraska, engine temp stayed right around 183°F; transmission stayed about 5-10°F cooler. 

9 hours ago, Paul J A said:

Scotty; Curious if you have ever done what i suggested in my post on this subject on July 19th???

If you have, what condition did you view??  

I have not. By the time I saw your post they had already pulled my old radiator. My old radiator was almost completely plugged  

It’s a great tip that will help everyone. Thanks,

Scotty

Thanks Loel!  Always good to have more alternatives available!  Thanks for sharing. 

I can confirm the 2006 Diplomat does not have drain tubes, so I suspect the 2005 would not, either..