Scotty Hutto

On 6/2/2023 at 10:38 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

Bilsteins. 

Probably should have sprung for the Source Konis, but my CFO didn’t agree. 🤣

10 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Which shocks did you go with, Scotty?

Bilsteins. 

Sorry for your loss!

Short version:

My Sheppard steering box has very little play (very unusual), so on Van W’s @vanwill52advice I skipped the TRW conversion for *my* coach.  Your mileage can (and will) vary. The good thing about a Sheppard steering box is that of its tight, it will likely never wear out in the life of a motorhome. The bad thing is that if it has a lot of play, there’s nothing to be done to fix it; you have to change it out for a TRW  

I did the Monaco Watts link from Mike Hughes @McHughes (https://monacowatts.com/) and rear cross bars at the same time. 

That’s really all I’ve done and my coach drives great!

Note: I *did* replace the oscillation dampers (shocks), but that had nothing to do with the steering / wandering. My coach would bounce like a trampoline after hitting bumps (bridge transitions, in particular). The new shocks did improve the bouncing a bit.  Slowing down and not being in a hurry all the time improved it a lot more. 🤪🤣

PS - For the record, Van’s advice on the order of suspension improvements to correct wandering are (based on my notes from the 2018 Gathering):

1. Steering box
2. Cross braces
3. Watts link

35 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I Would Not take my motorhome to any repair place that Was Not a Factory Authorized Service Center.  Here today, gone tomorrow.  Chuck B

I don’t think there are any “Factory Authorized Service Centers” remaining for Monaco Coach Corporation produced vehicles. I’m sure there are many orphaned motorhome product owners that would love to have a qualified mechanic to work on their coach.

There’s definitely a need. Looks like y’all are in SC…. In the Atlanta area an RV tech charges anywhere from $150-200/hr. 

I’ve considered something similar, but more along the lines of becoming a certified RV inspector. In the end I’ve just decided to take some diesel mechanic courses at the local community college - for my own edification, and to keep my mind sharp. It only costs about $100/credit hour, so for example the basic diesel mechanic class costs about $300. My point is if he’s passionate about doing this, there may be a less expensive path than $14k. 

I’m not completely out on taking the inspection certification course, but decided to back-burner that for now. 

Joel,

I’ve not dealt with that before, but I know there are those on here who have and will likely give good advice  

if insurance totals the vehicle, it may be worthwhile to pay for a third-party appraisal that includes all of your improvements to assist with negotiations…  I can tell you it is a negotiation, and typically the first offer you get from insurance will be a lowball offer. Be prepared with facts and information to negotiate.

The other thing that occurs to me is that if the insurance company won’t consider your improvements, you should remove as many as possible before relinquishing the vehicle to insurance. I realize the flooring can’t be salvaged, but other things can be removed and saved for your next coach.  

I had the same issue on my 2006 Dip. The 7.5a fuse for the ECM in my battery bay was blown.  It was in a fuse holder mounted on the sidewall of the battery bay.  A bit difficult to find, since the label had long since lost its ink. 
 

PS - my ECM worked fine and I could read it from the engine bay with Insite; apparently that fuse just powered the J1708 data bus up front. ??? 
 

18 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

Over the years i have accumulated a few posts on belt line repair and C & P'd them in a file. 

They are quite lengthily, so i don't know if it is permissible to post here. 

 

You are quite welcome to post them as a file, or post the text in this thread. We’re all about sharing info, so long as it’s not copyrighted. 😉

Yes, soft starts are available for home systems and larger commercial systems. They are also used on a lot of large motors for industrial processes. In industrial processes it typically has a lot to do with the capacity and protection of the plant electrical system. Those same things apply to a motorhome HVAC system.

They do reduce the initial draw of starting current (LRA, or locked rotor amps), which allows a ramp-up of current rather than an initial “spike”. This allows an HVAC System with RLA (running load amps) of 13-14 amps to run on a circuit designed for 15/20 amps. 

In theory, this reduces stress on multiple components.  Think of it as starting off gently from a stop sign rather than flooring your Corvette each time you come to a stop. We know intuitively that’s better for the car, but trying to quantify it?  No way. 

The most prevalent failure mode for an electric motor is failure of the insulation in the motor windings. This typically occurs at start-up, when the surge of starting current stresses (tests?) the insulation. Failure occurs when the insulation fails and the motor windings short out (the “Magic smoke” and what you smell is the insulation burning.) So logic leads us to understand that reducing start-up current will extend the life of a motor. How much? That’s virtually impossible to quantify, because failure of electric motors is difficult to predict. 

As far as mini-splits for RVs, Bill Groves and I started working on a design for that about three years ago (I’m a ME with HVAC experience, and Bill was both an ME and an EE with electrical and electronics experience). We couldn’t understand why no one makes then, especially with the proliferation of lithium batteries and solar for boondocking. Unfortunately, Bill ( obviously the brains of the operation) passed away about two years ago, and I dropped the project. Maybe someone will take up that torch…

34 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Thanks that's a very helpful video!

Wondering if you worry about drilling "too far" as the drill seems to lurch as it clears the metal your drilling through?

Yes.  We were using a drill bit stop collar set at 1” but took it off to make the videos.

I have dealt with these folks before and they seem to have a very good handle on RV valuations.  For $99 they will give you a valuation specific to your coach.

https://rvpricingandappraisals.com/

The information we received back in February is that Lazy Days has shut the park down for renovation, and they do not know how long it will be closed.  It is my understanding, and @David Pratt can confirm since he deals with them first hand, that they may have an agreement with a third party to operate the RV park when it reopens.  I also understood that the office building has severe damage (insects, termites??) and will need to be demolished and rebuilt.  The RV spots are being reconfigured and they will likely reduce the number of RV’s the park will hold.

The new park, when opened will be considered a separate entity from Lazy Days.  Not sure whether the name might change.

1 hour ago, DavidL said:

At least on all RVs I have owned / worked on, the condenser / fan is in the front where it gets cool air flow.

The "only" AC parts on a pusher RV is the compressor / clutch / belt, the rear of the two hoses, and possibly the low pressure switch.

On *many* Monaco diesel pusher coaches, the condenser fan and receiver/dryer are close to the rear of the coach.  On mine it’s just behind the driver’s side rear wheel. 

Just a reminder that “your mileage may vary” based on what coach you have.  
 

——-

That said, it seems running 45’ of #2 AWG (minimum), devising a controls circuit, and increasing your alternator size to accommodate the coach battery charging and other electrical usage (est 160-200 amp) and AC (100A) would be a substantial task. Offhand I’m thinking a 300A alternator would be required  

If those items fit in your skill set and budget, I bet a *lot* of folks would be very interested in the end result. 

(PS - I’ve spent more than the cost of those items trying to find and fix the problem with my dash AC)

——-

On a somewhat related note…

I *finally* resolved my dash AC issues by replacing the compressor. The replacement compressor installed about two years ago had a bad shaft seal and would lose a charge in just 4-5 days. A bad compressor shaft seal is virtually impossible to detect, so based on advice of this group I purchased a new OEM compressor and had it professionally installed, which solved my refrigerant loss problem. I now have nice, cold dash AC, and with it working after sitting over a month, am confident it is fixed. 

10 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

@Scotty Hutto I like the noise chart. 👍 . . . but only 1 hr of motorcycle riding / day?  🤣

- bob

I’m sure a helmet abates the noise, or you can always wear earplugs (wait, that’s illegal🤣)

On 5/10/2023 at 1:40 PM, Martinvz said:

We have always found the a/c in the coach to be loud, especially in the bedroom. 
we recently purchased a Wacko RV AC Silencer and found that it makes a subjective improvement. After installation I downloaded a decibel app to my phone. The decibels were higher than I expected but overall better than before. 

From my May 20, 2019 post on the old Yahoo! Monacoers Forum:

I have the Wacko Products A/C silencer on my front (den) A/C and have had it for about six months. 

It is a fairly simple install (maybe 10 minutes) and has made an appreciable difference in the noise. 

I tested noise level before and after with dB Sound Meter app, and it went from 90 dB average to 84 dB @ 1’ from air intake. VERY noticeable difference in noise level to both my wife and I. She can now hear the TV without it being on full volume when the A/C is running, and it looks a heck of a lot nicer than my 12 year old, warped, yellowed original cover. http://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji6.png

——-

BTW, even at 84 dB, that is still pretty darn LOUD (but it was at 1’ from the unit)
 

Just to confirm Tom’s info, I was an HVAC engineer in a prior life (for commercial systems, not RVs) and our standard “generic” design parameter for air conditioning systems was a 20° ∆T, (specifically from 75°F to 55°F. )

That ∆T may be higher or lower based on actual temperature and humidity conditions at the intake. 

——-

I have considered the RV Airflow design, and based on experience with duct design (there is no “design” AT ALL to the ductwork in our coaches) believe it will reduce resistance and turbulence at the fan exit, which should reduce noise (primarily caused by turbulence) and increase airflow without negatively impacting airflow across the coils.

I plan to add it to the front unit in my coach.  The rear unit acts as a white noise generator for my wife to sleep, soo I don’t want it too quiet  🙄

By the way, I have spoken with their engineer and these units are compatible with and complement silencers, such as the Wacko RV AC Silencer. 

On 5/9/2023 at 9:57 AM, MotorcycleMike said:

 

Nice looking coach!

On 5/9/2023 at 7:37 AM, Dennis N - 2005 Windsor said:

For those of you that have replaced the carpet with plank flooring, did you notice a difference in sound volume when you were driving down the road? Our carpet is getting bad and we are debating hard flooring or carpet.  Thanks, Dennis - 2005 Windsor

We had 2006 vintage carpet for the first 4 years and engineered hardwood for the past two. I didn’t notice any difference in sound levels (traveling or stationary), although logic says there probably was some difference. We have two large dogs that travel with us (Great Pyrenees), and it’s a lot easier to clean up the coach with hard-surface floors. 

For our situation, the hardwood floors were a great improvement, but as always, “your mileage may vary” based on your situation…

Hey gang, could I get recommendations on alternator rebuild shops, preferably based on first-hand experience. (Also preferably in the southeast; Atlanta area would be awesome!)?

I have a 200 amp Leece-Neville alternator (off of a 2005 HR Imperial) that I would like to have rebuilt as a spare for our upcoming trip (August - Sept).

Also, any thoughts on the wisdom of rebuilding this one as a spare vs. just purchasing a new L-N (about $500!)

I can purchase the rebuild components from L-N. Is rebuilding it myself a viable option? (I don’t have a bearing press or equipment to easily test the rebuilt alternator.)

…and yes, I’ve searched the internet with no good results  (in my experience, most folks that still rebuild something like an alternator don’t have much of an online presence)

Thanks,
Scotty

PS - I’ll add any good recommendations based on first hand experience to our “Services” section, regardless of location.

Re-tried troubleshooting step 3.  No backflow through the pump, so I ordered a brand new diverter valve. 

Will report back with results once installed. 

Further update…. Replaced the city water diverter valve.  Still have the issue with fresh water tank filling (on city water) or pump periodically cycling (with city water off and using water from tank).  Going to re-try Tom’s troubleshooting step 3 (no valve on inlet) to determine if the new diverter valve is leaking (that is a possibility, as this was not a brand new valve)

for the record…

- I’ve traced out all water lines in the coach over the past month this has been happening, and I am confident I do not have a leak in the coach  

- I do use a good (Watts) pressure regulator (with gauge), and maintain pressure around 55 psi+-  in the coach when on city water.  The Remco 55Aquajet ARV pump provides slightly higher pressure.

- The coach is certainly useable, but the freshwater tank filling and/or pump periodically cycling is annoying, and I’ve got to keep on this until I resolve it  

On 4/17/2023 at 7:40 PM, tmw188 said:

Did you call Remco?

Yes, I did. They were easy to reach and helpful. 

On 4/21/2023 at 4:29 PM, Bill R said:

@Rikadoo  This is great info to know.  I am contemplating getting the Onan-Cummins AGS as well.  In a conversation I had with their tech group last year, I was told there are plans to have the app also be WiFi compatible and not just Bluetooth.  So access could be from anywhere.  I am hoping that will be sooner than later.

Ditto.  The wifi would make it very useful for me.  Bluetooth...  yes, but not quite as much.