Dr4Film

3 hours ago, saflyer said:

OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.

 

Or, you may be looking for something that you don't even have in your coach.

Mine are NOT backlit on my VIP Smart Wheel.

Every coach can be plumbed differently.

it is the owners responsibility to research their own coach as to how it is plumbed and wired.

What may be correct for one coach may not necessarily be how it is plumbed or wired in ALL coaches.

That was one of the very FIRST things I did once we got our Dynasty back home from Salt Lake City. As a result I found that the consignment dealership had mis-installed and mis-wired the two GFCI Circuit Breakers in my main power panel. That mistake could have cost us one of our lives! I also found that there was no water check valve on the inlet side of the shore water hose when the water pump is active. I generally have the water pump on ALL the time regardless of whether we are hooked to shore water or not.

I agree, if you have 120 VAC power to parts of the coach THEN your transfer switch is working as it should unless the Relay inside for the shore power is not transferring one leg due to poor contact. And that is providing that every thing you had listed above is all on the same leg.

Otherwise I would be looking elsewhere for your problem.

Have you downloaded the Aqua-Hot Installation Manual for model 100-04?

If not, I would do so and review parts of that for possible clues.

42 minutes ago, snowman said:

Dr4Film, Where do I contact and I have done a bunch of searching and cannot find any numbers 

 

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-MANABLOC-760000

Manabloc will custom build whatever you need,  just contact them directly.

Those buttons on the VIP Smart-wheel never lit up on my previous Windsor and now my Dynasty.

Sorry, can't help you but good luck chasing down what the previous owner most likely could never fix.

Downloading your wiring diagram for your coach would be the FIRST thing I would do. Then peruse through them to view the diagrams pertaining to the headlights, etc.

The diagrams are in the download section of this site.

If people's air filter is getting wet or saturated with water from rain, my guess is that the drain holes to allow any rain water to drain out of the air inlet system are clogged. OR, the location of the air inlet hose from the air intake cavity to the engine has been placed in the wrong area (too low) allowing water to enter the air filter.

Those type of air filters are NOT designed to get wet.

If they are getting wet then that condition needs to be corrected.

The air filter on my previous Windsor was always bone dry.

How did the Filter-Minder react to the old air filter on all of your previous trips before changing out your air filter?

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

  There are SOME manufactures that state, unequivocally, that having  TWO Surge Suppressors, one plugged into the other, actually DEFEATS their ability to function.

I totally disagree with those "manufacturers".

So far, no manufacturer has technically explained why you should NOT do it. To me it is a sales pitch and nothing technical about it. I will continue to daisy-chain MOV's as I have done for the past 20 years or so. After all, THEY have daisy-chained MOV's inside their devices so if it's OK for them to do it inside then what is the "harm" to do it outside?

MOV = Metal Oxide Varistor

The heart of many surge protectors available today is a small electronic component called a metal oxide varistor (MOV). The role of the MOV is to divert surge current, however, MOVs wear out with use. As more surges are diverted, the MOV's life span shortens, and failure becomes imminent.

Does that support your air leveling system?

Is this what you are looking for?

https://tinyurl.com/bd754wvh

14 minutes ago, Jetjockey said:

I have an electronic”sniffer” device that detects leaks as small a 1 psi. It has come in very useful to locate and eliminate leaks. I have seen it detect air leaks I cannot hear by just walking g around the rv slowly.

 also has detected leaks soapy water did I not. I do not like some liquid leak detectors because they  corrode brass fittings. saves a lot of trouble shooting if  I go to a shop. 

Care to share??

The Aux compressors have a 99.99% failure rate. I recently had my HWH Aux Compressor Platform completely removed. I am rebuilding it this summer with all new components then it will be installed inside in an accessible location out of the weather where it can easily be serviced.

Lesson learned, our coaches are snowflakes, same year and model may have a completely different set-up. It's best to do your own investigation to discover exactly how things work.

I would recommend using acparts.com in Texas.

https://www.acparts.com/

That's where I purchased the compressor and dryer for my previous Windsor.

I need to contact them once again to order the correct parts for my Dynasty.

9 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:

Lots of great information on this topic.  Thanks for everyone that contributed.

I have a 2005 HR Endeavor 40DST with a Duotherm 13.5k in the rear (original) and a Penguin 1 13.5k in the front (replaced by original owner 8 years ago.

I have a few questions.  Instead of going with Dometic is there better brands that are more reliable? 

Has anyone tried Coleman, Advent Air, or others?  Are the Penguin 2 ACs the best and most reliable from Dometic?  

Anything is possible providing you have the time and money to circumvent the factory wiring and control systems for your AC/HP and furnace and install all new wiring and control systems for the new AC's, etc.

Basically, they are correct. The main differences are Omega I has the Alligator Aluminum Guard attached to the side of the coach that the fabric and roller tube rolls up into. The Omega II has the fabric guard and roller tube attached to the top of the slide. As the slide moves out the fabric unrolls from the guard. They both have the ? question style arms that create a window awning when needed in addition to the slide topper cover.

In Regards to springs, either a right or left spring will work in the Omega I or the Omega II. However, the Omega I came from the factory with a right side spring and the Omega II came from the factory with a left side spring.

My spring was replaced in my Omega I by a service technician who brought the wrong spring by mistake. He removed the right side broken spring and installed the left side new spring in the Left Side. It's been like that ever since and still works to this day for the new owner of my Windsor.

@Steve P Both of my pressure washers come with multiple different nozzles. I use one specific nozzle for doing the roof at a close range so it gets sown into the pores of the unpainted fiberglass to get all of the crud out and clean it to a pearly white. Then when cleaning the coils of the AC's I use a completely different nozzle that does not damage the fins of of the coils plus keep it at a safe distance. It's all a matter of "common sense".

As far as leaks, if your roof is sealed well then you should have no worry. However, if it isn't then I would take care of that FIRST by removing all of the OLD sealant and redo all of those areas with Sikaflex 715 White Sealant.

Now get yourself some 303 Protectant and spray those lenses 3-4 times a year and they will stay that way.

https://tinyurl.com/nhjerfx8

16 hours ago, John C said:

Now I know why, because my coach doesn't come with a door, so my coach has a corner much higher than that of yours. If I don't do anything, the 30" door will be 4" over the cabinetry. Looks like I will have to cut the corner so the door can move 4" extra inside toward the wall.

Thank you!

This confirms what I had suggested earlier in that the original owner must have made a custom change to the coach when it was built requesting no door in that location.

Just to add on to this "Check Your Base-plate" before travel thread of my recent discovery.

I had towed my 2006 Saturn Vue for the past 15 years. I recently switched vehicles back in early March to another 2006 Saturn Vue in much better condition that was already setup for towing with a Blue-Ox Base-plate. I checked the 6-way connector, it all worked correctly. I moved the RVIBrake Charge device over to the new car along with the RVIBrake seat brace for the brake unit to rest against. I also installed my dash, 30 amp, bypass switch to the lower left dash area.

Well, after closing up the house yesterday, then moving the coach out onto the access road to hook up the car. I got everything out to start connecting the car to the coach. I get my set of Blue-Ox pins out then sprayed some T9 Boseshield onto the pin and receiver and placed it into the receiver to lock it in place. Well, WTF!!! The pin was not locking into position. It would simply rotate around and around. Holy CRAP!!!

Well, as it turns out, I had no idea that Blue-Ox would make different types of pins for their base-plates. My old base-plate had used "short-short" pins whereas this base-plate uses "short-long" pins. I made a quick call to the Hitching Post in Ocala to see if they could help me. It was 3 pm by then and they closed at 5 pm so I had to get on the road NOW!

I had my wife drive the car while following me in the coach. We got there at 4:45 pm. They had the pins that I needed so $106 dollars later and an extra 85 miles of unnecessary travel plus diesel and we were back on the road to New Hampshire for the summer.

There isn't anything noticeably different between the two vehicles except that my old one was FWD and this new one is AWD. The front ends of each car looked exactly the same.

BTW, when I installed the new pins, each one was "leaning" to the passenger side of the car versus having the slot for the tow bar connector ideally straight up and down. Obviously, the fabricator at Blue-Ox must have had a few too many beverages for lunch before welding the pin receivers to the base-plate. Luckily, the tow bar connectors do compensate for their manufacturing error.

All is well!