Dr4Film

I am removing the HOT Big Boy and installing the Blue Seas ML-ACR in its place. No longer have to deal with having something that hot in my Rear Run Bay (aka RRB) or not working requiring to R&R it every so often.

I installed a 6-Way Trailer Tow on the rear of my Previous Windsor in addition to the 7-Way that was already there. My Saturn Vue has separate Turn and Brake Lights and I wanted to keep them separate.

I simply tapped into the Factory 6-Way to accomplish that task.

I also added a 12 VDC Charge wire to the 6-Way on the back of the coach.

The existing 7-Way had a convertor to combine the Turn and Stop lights. The only thing I added to the existing 7-Way was a Blue Electric Brake wire as I wanted to tow a 30 foot trailer or just my car.

Dang varmints!

Hope that it ends up to be something simple.

Is it possible to shrink-wrap the connector?

FYI....

I am here at Josam's today having the balance of the required work done on the remaining air bags that needed to be installed, Leaking HWH 6-Pack Valves replaced with new o-rings, new front Ride Height Valve and the HWH Air Compressor Platform removed so I can rebuild it this summer and install it in a more accessible location. They will combine the air lines that would go to the compressor platform together so the leveling system will only work with the tank air.

I should be good to go for many years to come with a fully operational HWH Air Leveling System that will actually hold air.

Have you read through the NotSoCold Service Manual Ice Maker Section to review the Troubleshooting steps?

3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

How do get the door to close if it’s straight? I don’t consider myself lucky, just shade tree enough to understand how it works and what it takes to adjust it as opposed to replacing or removing to tighten the center rivet or replace with a gas strut.

I simply give the middle of the arm a punch with my hand then grab the door handle to close.

The scissor arm on our 06 Dynasty is just loose enough to allow me to lock the door open by sliding that little tit under the top arm so the arm is perfectly straight. The door will stay open unless it is very blustery outside and the wind catches the front of the door.

I am happy with the way my scissor arm operates. I must be one of the lucky ones.

Give the starter a good rap with a hammer to see if it will turn over. Also check the connections at the starter to make sure they are clean and tight.

Shouldn't have to remove any upper panel if it is installed like all of the other older Sharp microwaves.

Remove the two grease screens. You should now have access to the head of a very long bolt that secures the microwave to the rear mounting plate. You may also have two hidden screws that need to be removed, one on each side of the microwave . You need to look up into the same opening where the screens were removed. Look closely on each side to see if there are any sheet metal screws holding the sides of the microwave to the adjacent cabinets.

Have another person ready when everything has been removed as that microwave is very heavy. Slowly lower the front to a padded cover on your counter. The lift the back edge off of the back plate, plus unplug the unit before lowering to the counter.

It would have been helpful if you had included a photo of your current screen door latch. However, this is the one that is in my previous Windsor and current Dynasty.

https://tinyurl.com/29394kpm

If you happen to be anywhere near Orlando FL sometime in the future and no one can pin down the source of your 'clunk", I am positive that Barry (shop manager) from Josam's will know exactly where it is emanated from if it has anything to do with any chassis component.

They have a special machine where they can get below the chassis in a pit while the coach sits on special shaker pads to observe and identify any loose components.

I use this 12 VDC splitter for powering my devices. Purchased at Amazon.

https://tinyurl.com/2wvkjvaf

I would do whatever you recommend to your coach. We all have to make our own choices and decisions, then live with the consequences. However, what you are recommending is fundamentally incorrect for an RV.

I had a RV shop in Scott LA install the Samsung RF-197 in my previous Windsor back in 2012. They closed off the roof and side vents completely as they are sources where road dirt and dust can enter the fridge compartment. That fridge is still working to this day 12 years later.

The Samsung residential fridge receives its cooling air from the bottom of the fridge to cool the compressor and evaporate any water in the collection tray from defrosting. It then escapes around the top and sides, hence the reason for clearance in those areas.

Those two vents are needed for any RV Absorption type fridge but are NOT needed for any residential. In fact, if left open to ambient air you risk dirt and dust entering the fridge compartment which will be impossible to clean plus the fridge will stop functioning when the outside air temp drops too low. Another effect that will occur when the outside air temp in very high is your rooftop AC's will have to function more to offset the hot outside air entering the coach.

I guess we will have to respectfully agree to disagree.

If you search for the dimensions of the 1210 Ultraline and compare them to the dimensions of the NotSoCold 1200, you should have your answer.

@Scotty Hutto That is an awesome glass dash display you have created.

If I didn't already have the SilverLeaf VMSpc, I would definitely be looking at installing the same system you have.

Based on what I know NOW, I will be shopping every time my policy comes up for renewal no matter what it is for.

I am so fed up with these companies gouging the pubic unnecessarily. Especially the ones that never submit any claims or have accidents or moving violations. The ones that should be paying are those that seem to go scot-free which then increases every ones rates.

I can only imagine the number of people here in the state of Florida that drive their vehicles with out insurance when it is MANDATORY to have insurance in order to register their vehicle. There is no follow-up to remove vehicles from the road when people cancel their insurance. I guess the DMV doesn't talk to the local law enforcement in order to enforce the laws.

You most likely won't find one at a salvage yard unless you purchase the entire seat.

Have you tried Veurinks RV and Northwest RV Supply?

Also there are various RV furniture places located in and around the Indiana and California areas.

Our founder, Bill Duckwitz, always preferred the Areo mufflers and had one on his coach.

https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389194-mufflers.html

Welcome to the world of RV Diesel Pusher ownership!

Thanks everyone for the advice and recommendations.

I ended up purchasing the Hadley Ride Height Valve from Amazon for under $50 and the Hadley Linkage Kit HPB450-3 I purchased from an eBay vendor for just under $25.

I appreciate the help you guys had posted.

My plan is to have Josam's replace the remaining 6 air bags, replace the leaking front Ride Height Valve plus repair any of the leaking HWH solenoid valves with new O-rings when I return for my appointment on March 27th.

Next winter I will rebuild the spare HWH 6-Pack Air Manifold that I purchased from Visone RV, then keep that as a spare. If I have additional air leveling issues, I can simply replace the entire unit with the rebuilt one, then take my time refurbishing the leaking one for a backup.

@Ivan K are you sure about the 1/8 inch air lines? The used HWH 6-Pack Air Manifold I purchased from Visone RV had 1/4 inch air lines to bags and 3/8 inch input air lines to the 6-Pack.

Thanks, @Ivan K ,for that information. Does it make sense to order new linkage?

Amazon has the H00450CE for under $50 plus it does come with various brackets. Haven't found one with just the valve body at a reasonable price yet.

https://tinyurl.com/fhsk3k57

22 minutes ago, Twomed said:

CE is compression fittings.  You need to eyeball yours and be sure.  Pretty sure ours are PTC (push to connect) but it has been awhile since I replaced one.  Easiest to see the front one with genset extended. 😉

@Twomed OK, that makes sense. I bet that the compression fittings can be removed and the PTC type fittings installed instead. Do you agree?

@Twomed Thanks for that information. The Hadley H00450 comes in a variety of configurations. Is the one that I need for my 06 Dynasty the H00450-CE or is it some other post letter configuration?

I don't want to order the wrong one!

Follow-up to my Ride Height Problem.

Had an appointment at Josam's last week to address my ride height problem. I am VERY embarrassed and mad at myself for not catching what they had found to be the main problem. It wasn't a Travel Height Solenoid valve that Barry (the service manager) had suggested when I talked with him on the phone. I actually had two air bags on the drive axle with holes in them!!! Holy crap!!!

Barry said that all 10 air bags need to be replaced as the rubber has deteriorated down to the reinforcement webbing. They had time to replace the four on the drive axle but I am now making an appointment to have the other 6 air bags replaced plus they found the front ride height valve leaking so that needs to be replaced long with a number of O-rings on the 6-Pack Air Manifolds will need to be replaced.

I have a follow-up appointment on March 27th to get the balance of work done.

My question for the members here is about the front ride height valve. Does anyone know the correct part number for the ride height valve for a 2006 Monaco Dynasty?

Thank you in advance for any help and information you can provide.