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gjh2916

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Posts posted by gjh2916

    Cleaning Cooling System

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    17 hours ago, jacwjames said:

    Back in 2015 I started to question my ability to interpret the strip tests I was using on my cooling.  I even contacted the local Cummins shop about a system flush and change.  The Cummins manager suggested I sent in a coolant sample for analysis, which I did.  The results came back great, looked like new so I didn't do a coolant change at that point. 

    But about 3 months after that my radiator was damaged by road debris and I had to have a new radiator installed, luckily my insurance covered it less my deductible.

    Jim where did you send coolant to get analysis

    Cleaning Cooling System

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    18 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

    Restore Plus. I was only worried about rust/scale. I did get about a solo cup full of gunk. 

    Regular Restore is for Silica, gelling. Ford (motorcraft) gold coolant was a culprit for clogged oil coolers in the 6.0/6.4 and the Restore was awesome at removing the gel, before you installed a new cooler, LOL.

    For me it was to ditch the SCA all together. I do my own maintenance and it was one less test, one less filter to carry/order/install.  

    I'm starting to develop a overheating problem, trying everything before pulling radiator. Tested coolant with 3 way test strips results 0/F equals 1.6 in green normal scale.

    Thermal valve is working properly. Was going to change thermostat and flush system.

    Dish network

    in Audio, Video, & Electronics

    Posted

    Yes I have ran a HDMI cable from cabinets over passenger seat to rear TV on my 2001 Monaco Dynasty. Also ran one from cabinets to front TV. From splitter that connects to Wally I went through cabinets to space behind the frig, then down to floor took the carpet cover off in the bathroom on outside wall at floor level, went through that space into closets then up to TV

    2001 Dynasty Starting Issues - Rear run bay issues?

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Gary,

    First. I edited the title for clarity.  In the future, please state the problem or issue in the title.  See the comment.

    Second.  I scrolled down and read the posts and have a suggest.....which is what Richard commented on.  The only way to resolve the problem is to read and understand what is going on.  The comments are very helpful. But, in the end, your trouble shooting and providing feedback is the best way.  Each of us has our own way of doing this. 

    My suggestion would be this.  The Lambert Maintainer is a "interesting" device.  It was an early attempt to keep the Chassis batteries maintained before the electronics and the MH industry evolved and there was a BIRD system that worked. By 2008 or so, Monaco was using two kinds....one for the Camelot and down and the other for the Dynasty and up. The Bi-directional Isolator Relay Delay or B.I.R.D. ® is a core piece of DC Management Systems that includes both a coach and a chassis battery.  I copied the last sentence from Intellitec.

    My explanation is for simplistic than technical. The Lambert was not a BIRD system. I prefer to call it a "Thief".  It robs or takes charging current from the HOUSE Bank (while on shore or Genny) and then syphons off a small amount....say 15 amps to keep the Chassis Bank charged.  YES....they fail. YES...there are cheaper ones that replace it like the "Ampl-Start", but in the end....they depend upon circuitry to work. The issue is that if there was a SOLID connection between the batteries or they were JUMPERED at all times........and the House ran down, you would not be able to crank the engine. The Battery Boost system, which is NOT part of the Lambert, is designed to be able to "CONNECT" them.  Read your manual. This is NOT a "starting solenoid".  You hold the boost switch in for the specified number of cycles and times and you put a surface charge on the Chassis bank by "robbing" or taking away power from the House.  Thus, when the Chassis batteries are LOW....you MIGHT be able to start. That Solenoid only carries or is rated for maybe 200 A and you need or use 1200 amps when you crank. If the Chassis was dead....then you would totally (OK....maybe not the first time) arc or burn up the contacts.  

    Reading all the comments....my advice would be.  Disconnect the Lambert from the system.  Use you picture as a "how it used to be" and pull the upper and lower cables off and remove the center one and tape over to prevent arcing.

    Now. Use a single Jumper cable and put it between the Positives on the House and Chassis.  That is actually "Jumpering" them. If it starts OK....then disconnect the Jumper.  If NOT, then, as folks have suggested, you have an ignition issue and NOT a charging issue. When you are driving, remove the Jumper....but keep it handy.  When the MH is plugged in and the Inverter/Charger is charging the House, put the Jumper back on.  Therefore you are charging BOTH banks.  BEFORE you start the MH, when you break camp.  Disconnect the Jumper and remove it.  If it starts OK, then you PROBABLY do have a weak Chassis bank.  EDIT….  The Lambert was designed NOT, hopefully, to run down the House.  Use the Jumper ONLY in storage IF, you have power.  It is critical that you understand this…and know the difference between the “Thief” system and a BIRD….   

    My "rule of thumb" on the Chassis...and I do have a well documented and reliable BIRD system is in the summer, I stop on a side street in my neighborhood and disconnect the TOAD.  Then I let the MH sit for maybe 15 minutes. That lets the engine "SOAK" and it really gets hot.  Not unusual....you do this when you go to storage. I crank it.  IF there is a slight hesitation or NOTHING HAPPENS....or I turn the key....and there seems like an eternity, but then it fires...the Chassis is getting weak and I plan on replacing. I do not worry as I COULD use a Jumper.  But that is a sign....and the age also kicks in. I DID have a chassis battery go dead in storage once....and it was from a bad "Battery Boost" solenoid.  In my system, that is also the "slave" from my BIRD system to keep both banks charged. When it failed, there was no charging current going to the Chassis and it has been sitting for a long time. I popped on a Jumper and had the Genny running and BINGO....after 10 minutes....I tried it again.  SUCCESSS....but I was going on a trip....so I just replaced the 6 year old Chassis.

    NOW....after all this....the purpose is to get you starting and cranking and ISOLATE the issue.  After THAT....it is recommended that you look in to the Blue Seas ACR.

    https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Charging_and_Charge_Management/1366/Automatic_Charging_Relay_[ACR]_Explained

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A

    This will solve the issue and you will have a fully functional and reliable BIRD system. This is the CHEAPEST way to go.  It is more expensive to install my Intellitec BIRD system than this one. If I lose the BRAIN for mine, I will probably do this.  but it is the ideal fix for an older one.

    @vanwill52 Is our resident expert on this. He has written several posts on it and explained it.  If you can't find them, then PM him and he can direct you to them.  

    Good Luck....  as Richard says....Trouble SHOOT.  But take out the Lambert and use my suggestion to remove the Lambert....and actually provide, for the interim a BIRD solution....simplistic, but it works....then figure out HOW to keep both banks charged....and the ML-ACR would be my pick.

    Thanks,

    Thank you for the insight, I will work in that direction after the holidays

    2001 Dynasty Starting Issues - Rear run bay issues?

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Tim-AZ said:

    I’m just guessing here but try flipping your front to rear switch in the back back-and-forth five or six times to make sure it has a good connection and then try starting it with the rear start switch and make sure you have the key on upfront. Happy cars or his name is actually Harry over on The irv2 is really good at sussing this out. There’s a thread over there under my name talking about this very item but I have yet to been able to go through all of his suggestions because I don’t have any help. I hope this helps you.

    Tim

    Tim I have tried to find the thread on IRV2 No luck. What was the heading topic?

    2001 Dynasty Starting Issues - Rear run bay issues?

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted · Edited by Tom Cherry
    Clarity of the problem

    EDITED

    This post concerns erratic starting issues and requests assistance in identifying components and understanding the RRB to determine the cause. Therefore the title has been revised so that others can assist or search for similar problems in the future.  

    In the rear run bay on passenger side the green box has a green light on it. When it is not lit my coach will not start. Free disconnecting the batteries and waiting a little while then connecting batteries back the green light comes on and motor home will start. This has happened more than three times this year. 5B088260-9C76-4ACF-BAC2-D57CE54749A5.thumb.jpeg.35342fca23f927b6574bd39a07372102.jpeg

    This is a 2001 Monaco Dynasty with 8.3 Cummins CAPS engine

    Engine cranks but will not start

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    I have a 2001 Monaco Dynasty with 8.3 CAPS Cummins.  Drove it a month ago parked it in garage, went out today and it will not start. Engine cranks over fine it just will not fire. Have a FASS fuel system installed and fuel pressure is reading 16 psi. Checked connection on ECM seems OK. I know these engines do not have a fuel shut off solenoid. Looking for suggestions on what to check next.

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