gburgman2000

That looks like a nice build, might outlast the coach baring any flying debris...

Got it reassembled mostly and ready for final pieces/parts to be put in once in the rv, hopefully this week. All new Green and yellow stripe hoses as well as insulating blanket. I used Shark bite brass fitting vrs the plastic ones, I hope to never be this deep in the unit again! New hoses from the engine, slipped some pipe insulation over them for the area between the back bulkhead over top of the water tanks.

The Flow direction is important as well, on our 04 dynasty the flow is inside out and Napa's new version was not rated for the flow only outside in. Old napa # was 6803 the new number is 500116 I use this one now https://www.baldwinfilters.com/portal/site/Baldwin/menuitem.baf68f3e1f93c260baef35bf4256d1ca/?vgnextoid=527b6411b160a610VgnVCM10000025651dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN#/partDetail/PA2722

I drained the engine coolant, was time to change anyway... Pulled and replaced the 5/8 heater hoses from the AH to the engine Saturday, takes about 55 feet. Snaking the hose thru the hard clamps after cutting all the old zip ties and removing the old hoses. It took about 8 hours 1 pair of tyvek coveralls and lots of bad words but it 90% done I was black when I came out. I have to get a new set of coveralls and and go back under with cable ties and a can of spray foam for the back bulkhead and finish the job. I can't wait 🙂 I had to order some 1/2 green stripe hose to finish the AH reassembly that should be here tomorrow. I will post some pictures of the reassembly once it's done. Still debating on doing the front half of the heater hoses when I am done, but as hard as the back was I am sure I should, at least it will be a cleaner job, famous last words.

The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose. He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch..

You can, that is how the old units were problem is the engine loop can fail in the same way, so i went this route

Got the unit back form CO, I have yet to get back to it, doing stick and brick updates currently.

https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brake-Compression-Fitting-Tubing-NTA/dp/B078469DKJ Napa or any truck parts place should have them The other one is might be a NASON switch (outdated) https://www.nasonptc.com/products/switches/

this is there current switch info, just need to match up the size and rating, or send them and email of what replaces it.. https://www.sigmaswitches.com/ likely a 1C-26-U as the old one was a 1C-26-N

I will not have the hoses until this week, Mike over on the other board did his a while back and said around 100 feet. He could not pull the hoses, too many damn wire ties and the section between the rear bulkhead and AH is bad to get to with the AH out can't imagine doing it with it in there. The front "metal" tubes end back by the motor so those lines are not that long but 100's of zip ties. The front half is going to be a joy as well

Tank is in CO, will be about 2 weeks until done due to busy season... meanwhile in dirty jobs I will be replacing the aqua hot and coach heat heater hoses from front to rear. Ordered 50 foot of Gates green stripe 5/8 for the aqua hot to engine loop, the engine to front is part hose part tube so I need to determine how much I need but I suspect another 50 feet. I had done all the other hoses 2 years ago but as long as I am in this deep these really should be done now, no easier time.

what brand of theater seating was that looking for the same thing?

This is what John Carrillo does but he replaces the coils with better material and design so they should never rub again. He even reskins the tanks if they are to rusted. The boiler bulkhead is about 1/2 steel so that almost never goes bad, same with the combustion chamber. I used to have a radiator shop locally that I would have trusted but they not of this world anymore...

I toyed with the idea of just wrapping the outside like yours, but I was vetoed...

Last fall mine started overflowing and it water pump pressure related. The internal coil wore thru due to age and vibration. I just bypassed the hot water coil and added a 4 gallon Bosch hot water electric tank until I could get back to my summer home/shop, I pulled the unit this weekend and disassembled it. Thanks to it being in the middle of the coach the easiest way was to remove the cargo tray and rail then slide it out that way. took about 6 hrs to do. Mine has propane and the gas pipe running from drivers to passenger side had to be removed to clear the neck of the tank. 2 foot pipe wrench and 8 foot pipe to get the exhaust nipple out of the bottom of the tank while under the coach was the pits. I have a 10" set of ramps that I use to get the coach up so that made a big difference, even with the air out I can still move around under pretty well. I contacted John Carrillo www.HeatMyRV.com , and he is rebuilding just the tank with new coils, switches and elements. I ship mine out this week if all goes well and it's about a week turn time for him once it arrives. He can send one out and then wait for your core but I am in no hurry. His shop is right across from the Aqua hot facility in CO and he has done 100's of these tanks, even built his own coil winder to make the coils. This will end up costing about half of one from the factory if you have the means to do it. The engine preheat hose are hard and should be replaced, Mike(zmotorsports), over on the other site did his awhile back and it was a real pain. even thou the unit is out I still can't move the hoses in the bay due to cable ties galore so I am thinking about just routing them over the black/gray tanks and then out thru the the back wall and continue on the the back of the motor. Some pictures of the carnage 🙂

incorrect pre-load on the bearings or possible that they are starting to degrade. If you turn the wheel slightly from side to side see if it gets louder.

https://powersuite.cummins.com/PS5/PS5Content/SiteContent/en/Binary_Asset/pdf/Consumer/specsheets/a-1483.pdf The paper says pure SW, but that and 5 bucks will not get u a cup of coffee 🙂

When I added my PI HW50C to the coach I found that it did not read the same from shore power to Gen power, Gen power is always lower than shore. I measured the output at the gen and then the transfer switch only to find the readings the same. I come out of the transfer sw into the HW50C and then out to the coach. The reading out of the transfer sw is the same as at the gen so I contacted PI.. they had no answer other than it was designed to monitor shore power, The gen is producing the correct voltage and hertz but something in there pickup coils/circuitry appears to not like the way the onan 10k is producing the power.

Mine looks like this, HWH unit Remove solenoid or all wires then remove two bolts on end I think there are 4 smaller bolts that hold the end caps on once you get it off. Its been 5 years or more...

On our 03 dynasty it was dirty armature from lack of use, the motor is likely the same as many snow plow lift motors. I removed mine from the pump and took it into the shop, pulled it apart and spun the armature in my drill press while using a generator armature cleaning stone on the armature. Cleaned the rest of the assembly and brushes, greased the bearings and reassembled, it's been working ever since.