isptbart

Carey - how much are you charging for these (per set?) for those members w/o printers? Thanks! Bart from Virginia

Many thanks Carey! Can't wait to give them a try! Bart from Virginia

Carey - I would like a copy of the file as well. Many Thanks! Bart from VA

Tom - hey thanks for the info! Are the modules still available in case I need a replacement? Any other such related parts I should keep in hand?I have previously taken an inventory & made note of which switch activated which module & associated channel. Now.....if I can only remember where I put that inventory! LOL! Many thanks! Bart from Virginia

Tom - how do I determine which multiplex system I may have on my 07 HR Scepter & whether or not it would benefit me to have on of the CPU/controlers for my coach as a backup? Thanks! Bart from Virginia

Likewise , I have basically done the same thing but with only a dab on each end where the clip fits into the slot. I haven't yet lost any of them since I added the dab of caulking.

I have 3 or 4 pairs if you are interested? Just contact me directly. Bart from VA

While stainless screws will certainly work & not rust, I have been advised to only use stainless pop rivets because screws are known to back out over time due to vibrations as we head down the road. Perhaps if backed up with caulking on the threads of the screws they might stay put? Bart from VA

All - thanks for your recommendations. My friend is in Virginia with another batch of snow but quietly parked beside his home. I will pass on all of your suggestions & once he has discovered the cause & repair I will post the results. Thanks! Bart from VA

My neighbor & I have brother 2007 coaches. His is a Camelot & mine a Scepter. Upon returning from a trip, when he turned off the ignition the horn sounds. Turn on the key & it stops. Due to the time & weather, I suggested he remove the horn fuse which temporarily resolved the issue. The other neighbors are grateful! We are looking for what would cause such a problem & how to resolve? Many Thanks in advance! Bart from VA

Jim - I would think it would be an easy task for you to remove your two drain plugs/valves, replace with a 1/4" hose fitting & run the hose over to a convenient spot to access either manually with a ball valve, radiator type winged drain valve or put in a spring loaded drain valve? Then, no more crawling under the coach to drain the tanks! Bart from Virginia

Our Sharp OEM microwave/convection oven had a metal mounting bracket on the back. In addition, it had two long machine thread screws coming down from the top through the cabinet. The cabinet above the microwave has a spaced faux shelf. The faux shelf had to be removed to access the screws. When my Sharp died, I replaced it with a similar High Point microwave/convection oven which mounted almost the same way. After 3 years, the high Point died so this time I constructed a shelf to match our Cherry woodwork & I just installed a Panasonic Microwave/Convection Oven, Air Fryer, Broiler counter top model. Very pleased so far with the additional features because we no longer carry a separate Air Fryer! In addition, provides some extra space on each side if needed, Bart from Virginia, 07 HR 42 PLQ Scepter

Where are the dump valve exhaust ports actually located? TKS!

If you have fittings with air lines located at the bottom of your air tanks, then you have drains. Air lines at the bottom are for the specific purpose to push out any moisture (when opened) - that is why they are there. You can trace your airlines to see where they go. The drain valves I had on one motor home were at the rear of the coach. The drain valves on my present coach are located up front on a brace next to my generator as shown above. I actually have 3 drain valves in a bank of four valves. In my photo above the lower two valves are only for drainage. The second valve from the top with a male fitting is actually for dual purposes; 1) the drain line for my "wet tank" & 2) can also be used for feeding air into my system from an outside source such as my shop compressor. I used that valve to air up my coach & constantly keep air in the system in order to check for leaks - w/o running the coach engine compressor. The top valve (female air fitting) is used to charge the brake system, in the case of emergency for a tow by a wrecker, to release my emergency brakes if needed.

J - that is great! I just replaced two of my 4 air valves at the front of my RV next to the generator. I put 2 new ball valve cut-offs as an additional precaution to help prevent an air leak at those two points. About $42 total for the three parts. See photos. Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ

Open your small fuel door to see if by making this modification it could still work by extending the fill nozzle & slightly rotating the modification to the top of your small fuel door for filling? I can still use the small fuel door but easier for me to see everything with the full compartment door open. I have seen this done in situations such as yours. The owner just removed the compartment panel, made the modification just slightly smaller than mine, & reinstalled the compartment panel.

Great! Mine is holding about the same pressures overnight! So moving on to other pre-trip list items! Bart from VA

BTW - this modification requires me to fully open my basement compartment fuel door verses the small locking fuel door. So park your rig at the pump to accommodate your compartment door swing. I can also support the fueling nozzle now on my door gas spring rod which keeps it in place. Sometimes I use a small bungee as well so at auto-fuel cutoff it doesn't pop out. Towards the last quarter tank filling, I reduce the fuel speed to cut down on diesel fuel foaming too! I also have the 3 point hydraulic leveling & I find it too much of a problem to lean the RV too much & most importantly the DW inside doesn't like it either. I like to take precautions about unnecessarily leaning or twisting the coach in relation to the many posted windshield issues - so I just don't take too many chances with that! PS - In case your fuel tank is different than mine, before you cut off your existing fuel tank filler tube I suggest you do a dry assembly of the parts to check your particular needs for a best modification for your coach! Getting ready to leave for our extended winter trip in the Southwest! Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter, 07 GMC 2500HD in tow Ooops! Forgot to try to rotate my coach Covid ready photo! :>)

OK-RVR - I also always try to fill from the high side, because you can't get a full tank from the low side. So, here is what I did to modify both of my fill nozzles & I can now get a full tank most every time. It takes a little time, but well worth it to me! Since I wanted to modify both fill nozzles I made purchases in order to have enough pieces for two assemblies. First, I stuffed a slightly oil soaked plug (rag on a rope) into the fill nozzle as deep as possible. Then I took my power band saw & cut off my fill nozzle about 2" from the tank itself (don't cut off your rag plug rope!). I purchased about 8" of 2"ID fuel hose & cut into 2 - 4" pieces. I purchased 2 brass 3" nipples. I purchased a 6" brass nipple (2") & cut in half. I purchased 2 - 45 degree 2" brass fittings. I took a file & smoothed out all brass cut surface edges. I purchased 8 good quality hose clamps. Carefully remove the rag plug + pulling out all of the band saw cuttings. NOTE: I connected a heavy duty magnet to the remaining fill tank stub & it caught a few lingering shavings, but I was very careful to not let the shavings fall into the tank. Other plugging methods could also be used to catch the loose shavings. Assembly per side: Put a 4" fuel fuel hose on the tank stub & secure with two hose clamps. Using a good quality diesel fuel compatible thread sealer & install 1 fully threaded nipple on one end of the 45 degree fitting & the other 3" cut nipple on the other end of the 45 degree fitting & tighten all securely. Put the assembly into the open end of the fuel hose putting the unthreaded piece into the hose & clamp with two hose clamps - after you rotate the assembly for the best angle for filling. Basically the unthreaded brass fitting will come close to mating up with the nipple stub on your tank with all secured with the hose clamps. On the remaining brass fitting end you just screw on your regular tank cap. I let the thread sealant set for a day for drying time. Duplicate these actions on the other side & you are ready to go to top off the tank. Works great for me & I can usually easily top off my fuel tank. However, now with the extra fuel the tank level sensor is initially confused because of basically initially over-filling in respect to the original OEM full tank setting at a lower level. Before I bought brass fittings, I did local comparisons verses online pricing & found I could order the brass fittings locally much cheaper & get them in about 3 days. Do your research & price comparisons. I spent about $60 total for the modifications of both sides of the tank. PS - Brass fittings are more expensive, but I initially tried cheaper black pipe fittings first, but they began to rust, so I changed out to the brass fittings & no more potential rust issues. Bart from VA, 07 HR 42PLQ Scepter, 07 GMC 2500HD in tow

Thanks for the fitting purchase leads guys! Bart from VA

OK - Thanks! Bart The brass fitting is the quick release type! Push the exterior ring (at the base of the fitting where the hose goes into the fitting) towards the fitting & gently pull out the hose. I removed the fitting & replaced with a new fitting after trying to reuse the old fitting (old fitting still leaked - not the hose). DO NOT USE Teflon take - use only a liquid/paste thread sealant & don't apply any too close to the threaded open end of the fitting. Trim off about an 1" of hose (if you have excess hose) & push in the hose as far in as it will go. Build up air pressure & use spray soapy water to test for a proper fit & no leaks. Bart from VA

Great advice! I tried to purchase extra fittings today but my NAPA shop was out & on back order. They also only had 3/8" air hose in black - I bought a piece anyway for a backup or for future use. Many Thanks! Bart Bart

I don't think it fixed itself - I just said it didn't repeat the extended hissing noise after re-filling the tank. Perhaps it was the additional purge cycle that happens when the air back flows to help dry out the air dryer desiccant filter? In any case, the tanks did hold their pressure over-night! Thanks! BTW - you replaced which purge valve from where? From the air dryer itself or a different valve somewhere? Thanks! Bart

Jim - good point on the purge/drying cycle!!!! I just checked this morning & my air tank pressures held steady over-night after changing out a leaking 3/8" air line fitting. Finally making progress with the air system! Thanks for your help! Bart from VA Fitting Leak - 2nd from Rt - 2.mp4

I could hear the hissing leak from the air dryer exhaust port. I had previously attached a flexible hose to the outlet port which directs the air purge down closer to the ground, so easy to hear via the flexible tube. All I did was re-pressurize it back to 115# & when I turned off the key, no more hissing. Perhaps the purge dislodged something to make it seal again properly? Bart Hey thanks! Bart