Steven P

Looks nice! 

Gary, do you have eternabond tape at the top of your slide? It is hard to see if so. 

I recently used these on my shower ceiling at home.  Sprayed it on the painted ceiling and was thinking i would need to paint, but they did the job.  The Mold Control has no scent and no bleach.  It did ok at stopping the mold, but the Mold and Mildew (bleach) from Dollar General took care of the rest. 

I think option of both works. 

I pulled all the old seals off this week and plan to order the new seals but this led to a new question.  My old wiper seal was original and not touching the top of the slide.  Can the bedroom slide be adjusted up?  How do I know if mine has "dropped?"  If I order the longer wiper seal, it will do the job on top and be overkill on the sides and I could trim the sides if needed. The pics below are samples from AP products and Steele Rubber. 

We went to Direct TV back in the early 2000s.  When they merged w AT&t a few years back, the problems started.  Last year after multiple attempts of talking with them,  etc...we dropped them for Dish and are very happy w Dish.  I have 2 boxes in my MH we turn on and off (now from our phone) when we travel.  We would need to call to swap locals,  but takes about 10 minutes to do so.  We pay less each month now and have much more.   I would do it again. 

Last year, mine did the same thing. I replaced the parking brake pressure sensor and no issues since.  

20 hours ago, MSHappyCampers said:

I had the problem with the top seal on my bedroom slide.  This is what I do to fix it!  

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/slideout-seal-repair-369830.html

Thank you.  I contacted Steele Rubber and AP products and told them my issue.  Both sent samples of what they have at no charge.  AP has one that is about an inch longer than Steele.  I plan to go see how they fit fairly soon and will keep the group updated.  The AP sample seems less rigid than the Steele one.

Joe, I think w today's quality it could occur with any age unit.  I was prepping for a trip and turned on both ACs. Rear AC got cold, but front was hot, heat pump hot.  That got me to googling and asking and found this was the issue.  It's an easy fix though.  

Thank you for that 06 Dip wiring diagram!  I've been looking for it.  

Thanks Chris.  I experienced this on my older Duotherm last year before a trip and was able to replace that reversing solenoid and blow cold air again.  It is an easy fix. 

I just replaced 3 leaking fittings on my front tank.   Before this, my pressure would drop to 0 overnight.  Now I lost about 35psi in 12 or so hours so I'm happy about that.   I went under the coach with soapy water and sprayed all the front fittings to find those leaks.   I haven't looked at the rear.  But one suggestion:  check your parking brake at the dash.   Mine had a small leak there too.  

I took some measurements today of my bedroom slide seals and that lead to another question.  Currently,  when my slide is out, the wiper does not touch the top of the slide.  My wiper measures measures 1 and 1/2" from where it pushes on and the one in the Steele catalog shows the same measurements.  This is fine for the sides.  Could mine have "dropped down" or could there be another reason for the gap?  

2 hours ago, Executive45 said:

Yep, pop em off, unscrew, reverse. I hope you didn't rely on your jacks to hold the coach up while you were under there. Blocking is imperative....Dennis

I did use the jacks to raise the coach up some, then I shut off the chassis battery switch to hopefully prevent them from retracting.  I also kept myself positioned where I could avoid being trapped if something went wrong.  I was doing the gennie work laying down w no air in the bags and no jacks down.    I do need to invest in some blocks.  What do you use?  Where do you place them?  Thanks.  

Got the part numbers for my leaky air fittings on my front air tank and swapped them out.  Fairly easy job once under the coach.  

4 hours ago, veraken said:

Go to the Steele Rubber website  https://rv.steelerubber.com/  At the bottom of the page there is a link to some of their video which may help your.

Thank you.  The videos are thorough and definitely helpful. 

Hey all.  I am in need of replacing my bedroom slide seals and will be replacing the slide topper at the same time.  I have the topper from Talin RV and need to purchase the slide seals.  My wiper seems to not touch the top of the slide currently. I will be ordering guardian plates to install too.  I know Steele Rubber is a good source for the seals.  My questions: how daunting of a task is this?  Is there anything special I need to measure or pay attention to?  Are the wiper widths a one size fits all or are they in different lengths?  Is there a good step by step source, video for this?  Thank you, Steven 

Just a thought:  we want to either recover our sleeper sofa or replace it and I contacted several local furniture reupholsters and the price was gonna be about the same as a new one.  In the meantime I learned about several places that sell lightly used furniture due to people changing theirs out and I believe Lazy Days does that too.  Maybe look around and you may be able to save some money?

I was having issues w mine saying the parking brake was not set when it was.  I replaced the parking brake sensor and that has fixed it.  (3 wired sensor in pic)

Keep us posted as I've always liked the built in tvs.  Great idea. 

Its works pretty well.  It's the only thing I've tried. I spray it on, let it soak about 10 min and then start scraping.  Living in S Alabama, it's hot so I'm not working on it now. Mine is covered by a bra so I just do a little at a time.  You can see some of the work.  

Mel, I know yours is not this model, but I found this recall on my year coach.  Wonder if you had a similar one?  

https://auto-recalls.justia.com/monaco-coach/diplomat/2006/08v070000/index.html

This is what I am currently using based on a post somewhere.  And plastic scrapers. On warm days. 

Orange-Sol De-Sovl-it Contractors Solvent 10131 33 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0MJRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HzCJhoTHs4EgM

38 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I had to have my radiator replaced in 2015 after road debris punched multiple holes in it.  I had Crosspoint Cummins of Knoxville do the work.  They recommended using ES Compleat Blue so that's what I went with.  https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/LT15070.pdf

 

Thanks James.  It looks like this one still needs testing and possibly coolant additives added when needed?  I have green coolant currently and am looking to change to an orange coolant that doesnt need additives.  I believe others have done that or am I mistaken?  These are a couple I have seen recommended. 

Thanks Chris, how do I get one as quickly as able?  I have an appt w a mechanic to swap out the tank, and put in OAT coolant and other maintenance.  Btw, which coolant do you recommend for 2006 Cummins 400isl?