Steven P

I stand corrected.  My apologies.  It did seem like an odd question, and no responses. 

5 hours ago, Johnny Snowman said:

lolol I am not

I agree, 100%, thanks!

Scotty,

I'll share my furnace experience, especially since we have the exact same coach.  Last year at a MSU game, it got in the upper 20s.  Our front furnace worked and the rear did not.  To us, the front furnace did a good job of keeping the whole coach warm.   The front one supplies heat to the whole front and 1/2 bath (I think).  The rear one (under fridge) supplies the bedroom and rear bath. Had it gotten much colder,  I probably would have wanted the rear working too.   I did fix the rear, but its heat is luke warm and I have found i don't use it much if needed.  My feeling is unless you are going to be in extended colder Temps, one furnace should suffice.  Of course, if it goes out, then you have no backup.  

Looks nice.  I like that outdoor tv and the storage doors that open like French doors.  Roomy coach.  

This may be mentioned already, but check the generator starter connectors too. And it could be your starter is going bad.  Happened to my Jeep. 

Thank you. I think I'm gonna go see the mechanic next.  How hard is it to get software to read the coach's codes? Other than the Scangauge. 

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Code 223-3 translates to either Cummins code 293 or 297.  You would need Cummins Insite software to know which one.

Code 293 is fault for aux temperature sensor input #1.

Code 297 is fault for aux pressure sensor input #2.

Both of those Cummins codes will display 223-3.

Frank, this is from Scan Gauge D's manual.  I'm not sure about the 223, but the 3 under FM implies the voltage reading is too high?  

This is what I came across looking at Cummins isl 400 codes--this site at least, does not show a 223.  I looked in the manual you shared, @Frank McElroy, and it's dated 2004 and my engine is 2006 so I am not sure if it correlates.  But this is all new to me and I am still learning all of this and appreciate all input.  

That's good to know.  I have a diesel shop nearby.  I will see what I can find out.  Thank you.

22 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Steven, what code number did you get?  I recently had one that showed on my VMSpc as "251--Power Supply Data Invalid".  The Cummins code was 434.

This is a pic.  But I don't think its a Cummins code.  The first time it popped up, we called Cummins and they said it wasn't theirs.  I may be wrong though. 

I get one on my 06 Dip with the 400isl Cummins.   My scan gauge gives me a code that I searched and found related to a voltage spike.  I have a feeling my alternator regulator may be going bad.  

I had 3 fittings on my front air tank leaking.  You could hear one and soapy water found the other 2. My pressure would hold for brake tests, but I'd be at zero overnight.  Replaced those 3 fittings and now all is well. 

Garland, I have an 06 Diplomat and was recently sent this.   Tim may have already sent it to you?  My weldex screen went out and for troubleshooting it I plugged the rca cables into a tv and could see again, so replaced my monitor.  You can try plugging in each camera to a tv to narrow down the problems.  I have an intermittently working left and rear camera.  

Monaco Camera Wiring Diagrams.pdf

I thought I'd share something I discovered Sunday.  My front rooftop A.C.  was dripping condensation in the coach so I pulled the inside cover off while running to tighten the 4 bolts.  On either side of the squirrel fan, there was a large amount of one of the interior layers of insulation being pulled/blown into the H ducts blocking at least 80% of the air flow going to the small round registers.  I tore off the insulation and could quickly notice more air coming thru the registers.  I've had that cover off several times, but never when running and never noticed that blockage.  The insulation is pliable enough to fall down w the A.C. not running.  The bedroom a.c. was about 75% blocked on one duct and 25% on the other.  I wish I had pics, but my phone crashed before that.   Looking forward to testing in the heat soon.  

When mine leaked,  it was at the hookup behind the fridge and was accessible through the rear panel. But mine leaked at the screw on connector. 

My 06 Diplomat manual also says 55psi max as mentioned above.  

Rob,

I have a Weldex monitor that failed and it was easy to test to see of it was the monitor or not.  Plug in a small tv and run the RCA wires to the TV, if you see your info, the your monitor is out.  Call Tim at rvcams.com  and talk to him.  He knows these systems well and can help you troubleshoot and guide you for the fix.  

I may be wrong, but to me it sounds as if the OP took the guy for his word,  listed it w them as it was a guaranteed sell and now they have ghosted him.  I suspect that he signed a contract and if he sells it by himself, he still owes them a commission til the contract runs out.  Now he cannot reach the people who have his coach listed, nor can he do anything himself without a penalty. 

2 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Should work OK Steve. I would order one first to see how aggressive the grit is. You can always go back and order more.

If it doesn't work I will come up and work for free as your surgical assistant.  🙂

 

Lol.  The grit seems a little coarse, I'll watch it.  I was thinking of rubbing a soap bar on it at times if needed. 

On 7/5/2020 at 7:36 AM, throgmartin said:

Ed:

Anti skid tape will work but you have to be careful that the grit is not aggressive or you will end up wearing out the seals. I have seen owners use anti skid tape that was real coarse and it wore the seals out pretty quickly.

Here is a tape that will work - https://www.campingworld.com/camco-grip-tape-320932.html

Chris,

This is what I am putting on mine.  What are your thoughts?  

On 7/2/2020 at 2:57 PM, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

 

On another note, I also have the Scan Gauge D,  are you able to view that in the Weldex, or is that some system?

 

John

’06 Knight 40DFD

John, I cannot view my scangauge in my Aladdin.  It's mounted just below the monitor. 

John, check w rvcams.com.   Try to speak to Tim Lazaroe.  He's an owner and extremely helpful and knows his stuff.  They are out of Louisiana. 

Dennis,

That is a nice setup and I see why you'd want to keep the look.  Some companies make adapter kits and face plates for different size products.  When I replaced my Aladdin screen I had similar issues and used a velcro style fastener which allows me to remove the screen for easy access behind. 

Dennis, could you post some pics of your current setup?

I would double and triple check all battery connections.  Since all those batteries were replaced, maybe something wasn't hooked up right?