MSHappyCampers

I would go with the Penguin II high-capacity heat pump and the CCC2 thermostat. I went with the extended 5-year warranty on the units since it was pretty reasonable. It seems that if these units are going to fail they tend to do it right after the 3-year factory warranty runs out! If you replace just one A/C unit you would need to put a new control board in the remaining old one to make it work with the CCC2 thermostat.

Thanks for the tip! Does this occur on units less than 5 years old? Joe

I would like to see it! Thanks!

Richard, where is the aux compressor located on our 2002 Windsors? I think mine is working OK but would like to know exactly where to find it, just in case! I plan to call HWH Monday to ask about the dumping before leveling. It works fine and I really like the step to be low to the ground! Thanks! Joe

I have always dumped the air before leveling in order to put the entry door step as low to the ground as possible. I was just reading the HWH Text Book in the files section and found the following statement. Pressing the AIR button one time turns the system on. The AIR LEVEL light will be on steady. The "TRAVEL" light will be out. The four red WARNING lights will be on and one or two yellow LEVEL lights may be on. DO NOT dump all the air from the air bags at this time. Allow the system to level the vehicle from travel height. Anyone have any comments on this? Thanks! 🙂 Joe

Thanks for the report Richard! Glad you had a good experience! 🙂 Joe

WOW! That's scary! We are pulling a 2013 CRV. Joe

I filled up at Sams Club in Tuscaloosa, AL Friday at $1.84. 🙂 Joe

Thanks guys! 🙂 Joe

I'm pretty new on here and trying to find my way around the forum. I seem to remember that there are stored files on here somewhere. Could someone point me in the right direction? Thanks! Joe

You've made me ashamed of myself! When I installed the HW50C I just hung the display on the wall in the electrical bay! I need to move it somewhere that it will be easily visible. I never check it under there, just figuring why worry if there's no problems! Joe

I would urge you to invest in one of the Progressive Industries EMS series protection units. They protect you against any kind of AC problem, not just surges, and have a lifetime warranty! You will pay around $300, depending on the model. It's low-cost insurance considering that a serious AC problem could wipe out just about everything in your coach! JMHO Good luck, happy trails, and God bless! 🙂 Joe

I just signed up on that forum! Thanks!

Give them my e-mail address through a PM, NOT on the forum, or else they will nail you too!

Jim, I've been banned from IRV2 through February 18th. If you see someone on there trying to contact me please give them my e-mail address, jminyard1@gmail.com. Thanks! Joe

If I understand it correctly, turning on the Driving/fog lights when the high beam headlights does not reduce the high beam but also turns on the low beam at the same time at 80% voltage.

MYSTERY SOLVED! Thanks to the comments of you guys and those on IRV2 I figured out how they work. The fog lights are controlled by the far left switch on the dash labeled "Driving Lights". The fog lights only come on when the engine is running, that switch is on and the headlights are on high beam. That seems weird to me since I don't think anybody drives in fog with the high beams on! My owner's manual talks about the Driving Light switch as setting the low beam headlights at 80% voltage, with no mention of fog lights! I assume that it's saying that when this switch is on both low and high beams are turned on at the same time? Anyway, thanks again for your help! Joe

I think the dash switch on the far left is labeled Driving Lights on my coach. I will check that out later and see if that turns on the fog lights. Thanks! Joe

Now I can't figure out how to turn on the fog lights! There is a button on the SmartWheel with two lights back-to-back that I thought might be the fog lights, but it doesn't turn them on. I can't find any mention of fog lights in the owner's manual or the info on the SM210 controller! Any ideas? Joe Just found out that the back-to-back button on the SmartWheel flashes the marker lights! Can't figure out what turns on the fog lights!!!!

Received the new SM210 SmartWheel controller yesterday and it solved the problem! All the functions work, including headlights, except I don't have fog lights. That could be just a blown fuse since I haven't checked it yet. Will be working on that today. Thanks to all of you who helped me figure out this problem! Hope I can return the favor someday! 🙂 Joe

I'm tired of messing with it! I ordered the SM210 controller from VIP who manufactures them for $185. Northwest RV sells them for $242! The SM210 is a direct replacement for the SM209 that is in my MH. Hopefully they've made some improvements in it!

There is one final thing I need to check before ordering the module. I need to be sure I am getting 12VDC to J2 Pins 5 & 6 which looks like the main power source to the module.

The flash button on the SmartWheel is not working at all now. Don't remember if it ever did! I can short out J12 pins 1 & 2 and the headlights come on. That tells me that the flash circuit in the controller is not working. Just got off the phone with tech support at VIP. Found out that J11 pin 6 is the sensing circuit for the headlamp relay on J12 pins 1 & 2. If 12VDC is present on J11 pin 6 then the relay contacts on J12 pins 1 & 2 should be closed, completing the circuit to the headlights! Since I can short out J12 pins 1 & 2 and the headlights come on, that means that the SM209 controller is defective! The SM209 is replaced by the SM210 so I guess I will be ordering one today. The cost is $185, unless I can find a used one somewhere.

I just verified that I am getting voltage on J11 pin 6 when the dash headlight switch is on. I don't see anywhere that the headlight power comes out of the controller back to the lights. J12 pins 1 & 2 are just relay contacts to flash the headlights from the SmartWheel.

Yes, I replaced the headlight switch, although I found out that the old one was OK after I determined the connections.