Jeff H

Hi Bill I had a switcher but I never used the satellite and we got rid of the bedroom TV. It was just taking up space so I got rid of it. I have Starlink and a WiFi/ Cellular modem so i can get all the TV/Movies I need. I do like the new setup and the new TV. Should have done it long ago.

Sorry Rick I thought you were asking for the make and model of the Motorhome. Here are some pics of the box the A/V receiver came in.

Ok, So I did mis-wire the speakers. Depending on the "mode" the A/V receiver was in (Front Surround /Direct/ HD/ Dolby/ Music) changes how the speakers are used. This added tot he confusion. At one point the rear R speaker was playing sound from all but 1 channel and the rear L was not responding at all. Also there are You Tube videos that will test surround sound so you can visually see where the sound should be. But as it turns out my phone doesn't play 5.1 surround so it seemed like the rear speakers weren't working. Once I got you tube on the new TV and used the video there (after getting the wiring straightened out) the only thing that doesn't work is the sub woofer. I am wondering if I need a powered sub. Not a big deal for the amount of watching we do we can live without the Sub. There is 2 pairs of orange and black wires going to the sub only one of which has continuity with the wires at the A/V receiver. Ther is no power wire so the factory sub must not be an "active sub" Oh, and just in case anyone was on the edge of their seats wondering about impedance, the sub had a label that said 6 Ohms which is at the low end of the A/V receiver tolerance but it should work. I kinda miss the old days when a boom box was all you needed. Thanks all for the comments

It is 2 front speakers,1 centre front, 2 rears, and a sub (5.1). They are separate from the dash stereo speakers. The manual for the A/V Receiver says 6 - 16 Ohms. I don't think it is an impedance issue as the ones that work, work well I just wanted to eliminate the possibility. I will take a speaker further apart to see if I can find a label.

2006 Diplomat Well it seems like the speakers are mixed up but despite that some are very quiet. It almost seemed at first the sound was twisted 90 de to the right in relation to he TV. IE if you are sitting in the DS couch the L and R are correct. The Sony A/V Receiver said 6-16 Ohms but I didn't see anything on the speaker. Just thought I would eliminate that as an issue. I think there is something going on with the connector plug so I am going to find a way to isolate each speaker and make sure they are all working and that the wires are marked correctly.

Hello Does anyone know the impedance of the surround sound speakers? I have changed the receiver/amp along with the TV and now I am having some issues with the speaker wiring. I took them off the old receiver and transferred them 1 pair at a time but it seems like nothing is right and the sub isn't working at all.

Hi Bob I will check out the IRV2 forum. Removing and replacing the fuse is part of the procedure in the manual/update so I don't think Mopar planned on a switch.

Thanks Bob Yes, the 2017 Jeep has the death wobble issue. I had the dealer install Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit wiring harness and there is an adequate charge line from the MH to maintain the battery. There is a switch in the console with an red "arm missile" type cover that gets turned to on and then there is a fuse that has to be installed in a holder under the hood, all part of the procedure to prepare for towing. I don't like the fact that the fuse holder is hard to see and I can hear the relay opening and closing while inserting the fuse. Also I think the repeated installing and removing of the fuse will make for a loose connection. My question is has anyone installed a switch to avoid the fuse removal and installation. Obviously the fuse would remain in line with the switch Yes the switch is on and the fuse in to tow. Fuse out and the switch off for normal operation. They are controlling different circuits. One is the steering I don't recall what the other is.

It is part of Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit. It activates the electronic power steering to eliminate the death wobble issue that Jeep had. I think they resolved the issue somewhere around 2019. I don't know if it was ever an issue with the Gladiator. The fuse is part of the Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit. The kit is to rectify the death wobble issue in the Cherokee There is a switch in the cabin and a fuse under the hood. I was curious what people had done to avoid removing and installing the fuse under the hood every time the hooked/unhooked. I can easily add a switch under the hood but I thought there might be a more elegant solution.

i got a Dixie 109-16128 Alt.LBP 12V/160A. Thank you to Scotty for pointing out it is not a DUVAC alternator and rebuilding was not necessary. The guy on the said you can not rebuild for what it costs to buy new. By the time you pay for parts and shipping you will have spent more than a new one. Physically it is an exact match.

Thank you all for the help Wasn't as bad as I thought. A second person makes a big difference. Hopefully it runs for another 78000

Hello We have a 2017 Jeep Cherokee for a Toad. There is a switch under the hood that is used as a switch. This does not seem like the best idea (installing/removing the fuse will cause wear and is a bit of a pain) Has any one installed a switch under hood or in the cabin?

New alternator and belt on their way. Thank you all Now to figure the tensioner

Is there any advantage to a higher amperage altenator?

I wont disagree with that. I got it out Getting the wires off was as much work as getting the bolts out. Not that hard once you get twisted around so you can get some leverage. Had to remove the tail pipe from the muffler to make room for me. Hmm. I will have to look for the second hatch. I am not looking forward to the belt

Thank you I looks like there are 4 bolts 2 top and 2 bottom. I can't get the top to budge. and there is not much room for a bigger ratchet/bar. it looks like the way to do it is to take the bottom bolts out and then one person remove the top bolts from inside and someone below support it and then lower it.

I didn't see it on the road so I thought it must have got thrown up into the engine bay but I dont see any parts there. I will go back and have a look where It broke

Last night, fortunately only about 2 miles from home the alternator light came on. I stopped to un hook the towed about 1/8 of a mile from home and could smell something hot and figured something was seized and the belt was next. As I just finished unhooking the belt broke. I idled the last bit home and by the time I backed in I was up over 200deg. When I checked the belt was gone. The alternator will turn then stop and turn again with a bit of force. So I know that it is better to rebuild then replace the alternator. My questions are: 1. What is the best way to get it off? There doesn't look to be much room to work and 2. What belt does it take? Finally I was lucky to be close to home when it happened otherwise I might have spent the night on the side of the road. Is there a way to bypass the alternator with a belt so you can keep the fan and water pump working?

Thank you Yes Tim it would be for the winter months.

Hello All We are planning on going to the Albuquerque for the Ballon festival and eclipse in October. My wife and sister in laws have made plans to hike in the Grand Canyon the first week of November. Unfortunately, not being retired I can't hang around for 2 and a bit weeks. So my options are: Drive back to Canada after the balloon festival and fly to Las Vegas or Phoenix Store the motor home in Phoenix fly home and then fly back to Phoenix and drive home after the Grand Canyon Store the motor home after the Grand Canyon possibly have some work done on it, fly home and return for it in the spring. Any suggestions for short and long term storage and/or reliable RV repair facilities that would let the RV sit for the winter?

Not to stay on topic but, My 2006 diplomat has a 2-3" vertical flange on the top of the slide. What happens with that?

Not sure I know what you mean by "stretch" the air bags but if i raise my coach on the hydraulic jacks with out dumping the air first the ride height valve releases air in an attempt to lower the coach to ride height.

One thing to consider is the bay has to remain open to the outside in case of a leak so anything stored in the area would be exposed to road grime. Unless you put a door on the opposite side and closed in the new space.

What are the other fuel types?

Yes I am wondering about the one that plugs into the pedestal and will clamp any spikes in the RV.