Jeff H

Hello I have been reading the posts regarding the Power Transfer Switches and the Autoformer with interest and have learned a lot. I am wondering if the new SoftStartUp product has been used by anyone and could it be hardwired in some how? Since it is only for 30 Amp service one would need a way to switch it in and out of the circuit. Per haps the pole mounted version is easier just more susceptible to theft https://softstartup.com/rvtravel/

So do you leave the dish on the pole attached to the ladder to travel?

I cut a PVC pipe in half and fastened it to the wall above my propane tank that runs across the coach. the propane tank is in the bay ahead of the wet bay and is open underneath so it is handy and any minor drips end up out side.

Not the most elegant solution but you could move the receptacle from behind the fridge to below the mirror. Then use an extension cord to run from the receptacle to the cabinet in the slide. It could be hidden with a bit of wood trim if you want but the right colour cord would be hardly noticeable. you would just have to be sure to unplug before retracting the slide.

I had a similar issue. It was the relay in the front run bay. Bottom left in your picture. My picture is rotated 90 deg sorry . Below is a picture is with the relay removed.

I emailed Thin Lite. Below is my request and their answer. i took a very quick look at the website she suggested and they have most if not all of Thin Lite's products as well as some LED replacement bulbs and strips. My Message to Thin Lite: Good Morning I have a 2006 Monaco Diplomat with 8 of your 746 fluorescent fixtures. One of the ballasts has stopped working. I have some questions: 1. is there a replacement ballast available and is the fixture field serviceable? 2. Are the ballasts used in 2005 electronic? 3. is there a direct replacement bulb that will work without rewiring? Thin-Lite Sales <sales@thinlite.com> Aug 25, 2021, 11:19 AM (19 hours ago) to me Yes there is a replacement ballast. You can send the light fixture in for repair. Repair cost $25.00 for the repair $13.00 shipping $7.00 shipping for 2 or more fixtures. If you would like to purchase ballast please contact World Wide Lite 1-800-247-6324 WWW.WORLDWIDELITE.COM Tammy Collins. Thin-Lite Corporation 805-987-5021

Thanks Tom So This is the label on my living room, hall, and bed room. fixtures: Below is the ballast/starter? Is this an electronic ballast/starter I am more familiar with the old school "black boxes". The black wire is 12VDC positive from the switch the white is 12VDVC negative. I measured the voltage on a working light and there is 12v across black and white. There is 12v across the blue and red at the bottom of the picture. Interestingly in the living room which has 3 lights there was 8.5 volts with the other 2 lights on, 10.5 with 1 light on and 13.8 with no other lights on. I was surprised by the voltage drop. One fixture wasn't working and the voltage across the red and blue at the bottom would start at 10.9 and then drop to almost nothing in 10 seconds. So I will go out on a limb and say the ballast/starter is shot. So Tom, simply stated you have 120VAc bulbs in 12VDC fixtures (likely with electronic ballast) and they work. Out of curiosity would a 120VAC fixture's ballast use a transformer to change the voltage to 12VDC? At that price it is worth a try at the very least. Now to find them in Canada.

Tom Are your fluorescent fixtures 120Vac or 12 VDC? According to Lowe's website the bulbs are 120VAC.

Diplomat, interested

The switch moved in both directions freely, little square did not seem to make a difference

The lights going "flickering" was the first sign my Salesman relay was failing. Does the ceiling fan stop as well?

Thank you to all for the heip If it wasn't for this site I wo.uld have been lost

The red wire went to one side of the fuse the bare to the other. The purple went to the coach i removed the relay and put all 3 wires on the same lug. See the picture with the circled item I bypassed it. The relay is missing in the picture with the circle. i put all 3 wires to the same lug Thanks Mike. if the switch inside did anything I might consider replacing the relay. The switch has never worked. it is a momentary switch so it makes sense it would have been a latching relay

For what it is worth, on my 06 Diplomat the annunciator was just above the steering column towards the firewall. I had to remove the cover from around the steering column to find it. There were several wires going to it.

Richard It was the right one. i thought it had been bypassed because the switch inside never worked. If you look at the lug on the right y ou can see a bare wire going from the lug up to the fuse at the top rt of the relay. The other side of the fuse is the red going to the pcb on one of the 2 small lugs. The purple wire goes put of the panel, i assume to the switch. So I am thinking that instead of bypassing the relay they just rigged it so it was always energized. Below is what I did. What is the circled item?

oops Hi Steve I thought it might be the relay because i has been discussed here a number of times. All my 120VAC circuits had power, none of the 12VDC circuits had power. The inverter was charging the batteries but the EMS was dark. So I knew there was something up with the 12V The relay was in the front run bay in the fuse panel lower LH corner (yours may be different but should be similar size and have 4ga wire). I had seen pictures of it before and when I checked for 12V power it was only on 1 side. I jumped the lugs on the relay and the lights in the coach came on.

Hello Last night all the 12v "flickered" almost like a brown out. This morning everything 12V was not working. anything that needs 120 (microwave, fridge, outlets) was working. I assume it is the Salesman Relay. The switch at the door has never worked so i assumed it was bypassed. Attached are pictures of the switch and what I think is the relay. Am I looking at the right thing?There is 12V at the right side of the relay and 0V at the left side. Can I just move a wire from one side to the other?

I tried that, mostly because I know I can dump the air in the accessory position and would feel like an idiot for not having tried to level. The leveler does not have power in the accessory position. Perhaps a new wiring project. If I am close to level I will not dump. If the jacks need "room to work" I will dump. of course as soon as you lift with the jack the ride height valves kick in and star dumping air trying to lower the coach. They continue to drain until the bags are empty but not the tanks whether the key is on or not.

You are correct but to level or move the coach I need the key on. So to level I have to reduce the air pressure to the point it won't raise the coach which is just below when the alarm comes on. I suppose one could wire the leveling so it did not require the ignition to be on.

My 06 Diplomat, with hydraulic leveling dumps the air bags but they will refill if the system pressure is high enough. it would be nice to have a way to lower the coach without having to reduceair pressure tothe point of the low air alarm going off.

It caused the floor of the RV to rise? Isn't the black and grey tank above the fresh water tank? That means the fresh water tank expanded enough to crush the holding tanks, which are vented, and push the floor up? Or do you mean the top of the water tank started to rise?

Thanks Scotty I will get in touch with them

x 2 with a Pepwave Max Transit Cat 18 LTE Advanced Pro Router from Techno RV

Our first trip with the new set up starts tomorrow. I had nothing before this, just relied on the phone or laptop antenna so I hope there is some improvement. I will let you know.

Thank you