Jeff H

Thank You Scotty. The questions made me realize I wasn't too familiar with the system and I shoud change that.

Will do Thanks

Hello I have a friend with a boat that wants to install a generator and an inverter/charger. He has asked me how the system works and I am not entirely sure. So is there a diagram out there that would show how the Shore power/ Gennie/ inverter are wired for a 2006 Diplomat PDQ? I looked in the downloads section but I could not find one. Thank you

If you have an enclosed trailer, could you not put a battery bank in the trailer to charge by the panels and electrically at the CG then use that to charge the car overnight or on the road?

Make sure the valve between the fresh water tank and the pump is closed. I have missed it a couple times because it is behind the pump.

Thank you all I was leaning toward the cut off switch because I went out to move it into storage today and the magnum display and the inverter LED were turning on and off. That is the switch I have. It is turned off now as the RV is put away for the winter. I will order a couple and change the house and chassis switches out in the spring. Is there a Switch that is recommended?

Ok I will see if I can find it. Went out today and everything seems to be working. Gotta love intermittent problems

No I do not

Ok I assume that it is in the FRB? There is a number of relays in there. How do I identify it? Can I just connect the switched wires and cap of the wires to the coil?

Hi All MY 2006 Diplomat has been sitting in the driveway plugged into the garage waiting to be put away for the winter. I went out today and nothing on the 12V circuits was working Magnum panel was working, the batteries are float charging The EMS was blank The microwave was working I checked the inverter, the breakers were ok and there was a light on the back of it. I flipped the "salesman" or "Batt Cut Off" Switch (Which has never done anything before) and nothing changed. I think it has been bypassed. I started the generator it ran a bit rough (maybe cold) that did not change the state of the EMS panel nor the lights. The slides work. The house battery switch is on Is there a "master" 12v switch or fuse? The only out of ordinary situation maybe that the propane ran out and the furnace fan was running for an extended time.

My situation was not exactly the same but my coach is a 2006 Diplomat. When I dumped air only the back was going down. It turned out to be a bad ground on the front solenoid. So there is more than 1 dump valve/solenoid is what I am saying. Perhaps the issue involves the rear solenoid.

Hi all With a little more dissasembly I have discovered it is a Thetford Style PLus Mod 34425. Still can't see where the water is coming from. I am going to try a local RV store we saw yesterday to see if they have any parts before I tear it apart.

Good Morning I have a Thetford toilet (porcelain base with a foot pedal) that is leaking. It is not a large amount of water and seems to be clean. I pulled the plastic cover around the base back and it seems to be coming from the bowl. There is water built up in cavities in the base. The connections seem tight. there is water at the red arrow it then drips into the cavities below the blue arrow, then overflows or gets jostled out and ends up on the floor. Is there a connection in the bowl somewhere? A Little further investigation it appears there is water spraying out of the back of the bowl near the top. There are some hoses right there so I think one has sprung a leak o ra connection is bad.

Eric if you catch it soon enough the glass can be reused. Every time the condensation appears between the panes and then evaporates, whatever minerals were in the water remain on the glass (like hard water stains). The longer it is left the harder it is to clean, At some point it becomes impossible.

Yes you can cut laminated on site. you have to scre and break one side, flip it over and repeat, then use a torch or methyl alcohol to soften and and melt the interlayer.

The "balanced" method keeps the pressure on the glass as it is filled. Calibrating the machines can be interesting as too quick a fill rate compared to the evacuation rate will cause the sealed unit to "balloon" and possibly burst. Krypton and Argon are a whole other debate as the sealers used are slightly permeable, so in a few years the airspace is just air.

Hi Tom, Since you are interested in getting it right, which you MOSTLY have, I will make a couple corrections. I own a company that fabricates and installs commercial windows. We also make sealed units. The bronze or grey tint in our RVs is pretty STANDARD across the industry. any difference comes from the THICKNESS of the glass (More tinted glass means darker window) You are CORRECT that tempered glass is cut and then tempered so We would have to send a pattern away to a tempering plant in order for a specific shape to be made. There there is NO vacuum pulled on the glass. If Argon or Krypton is used it is pumped at the bottom of the unit and air is pumped out a similar rate at the top of the unit until a specified % of Argon is sensed coming out. A vacuum will cause the 2 lites to touch which is considered a WARRANTY FAILURE as you lose all the insulating value where the glass is touching. If anything the glass is slightly pressurized in relation to the atmosphere it is assembled in. I have received sealed units built at higher elevations with breather tubes he had to pinch off so that the elevation difference did not cause them to collapse. You are CORRECT, cleaning and matching the OD are CRITICAL

Well Done Ivan. The key is getting the inside surfaces perfectly clean and then not getting fingerprints on it. I work with glass and we have had sealed units with stickers stuck to the inside, finger prints, scratches, even flies.

Hello, Is that picture behind the wet bay panel? I assumed the panel on my 06 Diplomat will have to come out which looks like a bit of a chore.

Thank you all for the suggestions. I tried a number of things to no avail. As near as I can tell, as much out of desperation than logic, I turned the Chassis battery switch off an then back on. I had the ignition key in the on position so all the clicks and whirrs from the engine started. I went back to the drivers seat and tried the jacks and they worked!! Logically, "turn it of and then back onto reset it" doesn't make sense because the Chassis batteries were removed for nearly 48 hours. Anyways thank you all for the help. Hopefully the issue doesn't reoccur.

Where is that breaker? Chassis batteries were removed for 2 days so it should be reset. I will give it a shot anyways.

Yes I tried auto. jacks will not extend or retract. Yes parking brake set, tranny in neutral. It worked long enough to raise the front of the coach a few inches.

Hello all I took my 2006 Diplomat PDQ out of storage last week. The chassis batteries were very weak and I have replaced them. Before replacing them I tried to level the coach after getting it home. In manual I lowered the front jack to where I was happy. When I pushed the button for the rear nothing happened. I got out and looked and the jacks had not moved. I usually can hear the pump and there was no noise. I tried to the front again, nothing. I tried to raise the front jack, nothing. My first thought was I blew a fuse. I have checked all the fuses in the FRB that have anything to do with leveling, hydraulic or air and all are good. So my next thought was the battery was so low it couldn't run the jacks. I replaced the batteries. same issues (it starts very easily now) I'm not sure the battery has anything to do with it but it was part of the chain of events. The control panel lights up like normal So is there another fuse somewhere? Any other suggestions? Can the jack be raised manually? My owners manual only has information on RVA jacks Thank you in advance

No Doubt. I am just suggesting the CB may not be resetting which is what happened to me. Testing the CB or replacing it with a fuse temporarily will eliminate that as an issue or solve the problem.