Following up on my project to have an ignition switched TRLR CHRG line vs what the factory provided as an always hot line with a 20amp fuse I can't find. Also as my 7 to 6 wire umbilical cord is only 14 gauge I wanted a 15amp breaker on the circuit and one way current draw coach to toad only.
Yes, the plug I was looking for was indeed a 350809. As shipping was significantly more than the cost of a single plug I got a few spares and the corresponding sockets (unneeded at the moment but who knows what future project I might undertake that might need polarized locking connections) were 350810 and naturally pins 350550 female and 350547 male.
Anyway when the alternator is running it more than compensates for the voltage drop across the diode and I'll still have plenty of voltage to keep a charged toad battery up while driving down the highway. And as it is relay switched, when I boondock for the night along the way the relay insures the coach chassis batteries are isolated from the toad.
Now to update my coach wiring diagrams to match my customization.
P.S. If anyone needs a plug or socket with pins my spares are available.
Mostly good news. Accuride is shipping a new wheel under warranty. Bad news is getting a tire shop to swap it at my cost. And the wheel won't ship out for 10 days so looking at Thanksgiving week to get somebody to do the work.
Would this unmount/mount be covered under my FMCA roadside plan?
General update:
Having tried resetting the cpu, killing all power to the CPU closet, toggle salesman switch, disconnected batteries, loosening and retightening all hot wires to the modules, all lugs on the circuit breakers on the closet power bus, unplugging and replugging all edge connectors on the boards in the cpu closet, loosening and retightening all the ground screws I could manage to loosen (some were so tight I couldn't budge them), unplugging keypads ( and where a circuit had multiple keypads to control that set, unplugging the other keypad leaving one keypad to turn that set on ... and then trying the keypads unplugged or replugged it n.tjr alternate test).
I then decided to unplug and replug every G4 light. For a couple of days I thought that solved it until last night when I turned on another LR ceiling set while DW headed into the BR and turned the normal ones on there. It was just s random act of us doing our own thing at the moment but that caused the lights to go out in a sequence. I think by board module but don't recall it having timing like a master ON sequence. (Remember I haven't found the right holding of the master off switch to turn them off in a sequence ... master off turns them all off at once, as well as changing the keypad backlighting, whereas all on does turn them on in a sequence.) However today the lights have been behaving properly. So in some ways it is a step forward in that they aren't going off as much, but a step backward in that I can no longer repeat the problem at will
When I took all the ceiling light discs out (actually dimmable LED discs that replaced all the old halogens 5,6, or 7 years ago ... I haven't looked through my old credit card statements to find exactly when I bought them) we also cleaned the glass lenses so very likely the LED discs might have been reinstalled in a different ceiling location. However other than the closet + driver/passenger overhead lights, the other circuits have been used the last few days without the definitive repeatable {and frustrating) self turn off problem other than ONCE last night. So maybe the problem is related to a dusty G4 pin connection in the ceiling socket?? Or maybe one of the LED discs that is likely in a different socket now? But then again I experienced the self turn off last night but not tonight ( and didn't find a magic sequence to repeat it now whereas earlier before I unplugged all the LED discs it was very predictable and repeatable).
Anyway I'm going to keep monitoring it. I'm also considering running a new 14 ga ground wire from the closet bus bar through the floor to the bus bar on the upper driver's side engine bay, and from there to another new clear frame connection. Also there are 5 old style seldom used filament bulbs I haven't removed the shades to twist those bayonet bases, and I haven't yet taken the bathroom ceiling fixtures off the ceiling to replug the 4 LED strips that replaced the old florescent tubes (but there is no old ballast up there in the ceiling ).
I think the problem has to be related to introduced noise from some place. I'll update again in a few days. And if not solved in a couple of weeks will head to Atlanta. Thanks guys.
Yes, left unit functions usual ... Cameras automatically follow turn signals and reverse gear, or are manually selectable as are the other Aladdin pages ( Engine, water, electric, clock pages, etc ) on the left monitor. Right monitor is rear camera (split feed to both) or gps or sound system independent of left monitor with one minor thing being the Aladdin must be powered up to supply power to rear camera. And naturally bed room monitor is unaffected as it is a slave to the front (left) Aladdin monitor. The box in the dash has a lot of video/audio inputs and outputs and is under utilized. You can select what input you want to output on the output RCA connectors. I believe if I had more feeds of something useful to display the hardware could easily handle the switching.
I'm reading between your lines and it sounds like a previous owner might have just moved the rear camera feed to the right monitor rather that splitting it to both? Are your other cameras still on the left?
Anyway, best wishes as you customize things to your individual likings.
