amphi_sc Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 As my Trlr Charge pin at the 7 pin towing socket is hot all the time I was wanting to add a relay to make it live only when the ignition is on. While I could just use pigtail relay sockets, there are two unused positions in a 4 relay board conveniently located. Is the are common source / ordering # for these keyed 5 pin edge connectors? ( And obviously the pins too ). Thinking Mouser, Amazon, eBay, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 So a coworker showed me a website the other day, connector experts.com, before that i have used digikey.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9 Exec Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Good morning! Yes, Mouser and digi-key would be the first places to start the search. I will do some research when I get back tonight to see if I can get some better information for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Hey one more thing, just trying to keep the information flowing, if ever you need a circuit board repair i found this maybe on our website i dont recall however its a good one to keep in your information base, cause sooner or later you may need it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 19 minutes ago, amphi_sc said: As my Trlr Charge pin at the 7 pin towing socket is hot all the time I was wanting to add a relay to make it live only when the ignition is on. While I could just use pigtail relay sockets, there are two unused positions in a 4 relay board conveniently located. Is the are common source / ordering # for these keyed 5 pin edge connectors? ( And obviously the pins too ). Thinking Mouser, Amazon, eBay, etc I would pull your prints…..the 2007 Dynasty, I thought, had a a ignition keyed relay is or should be downstream. BUT….this is Intellitec “PCB” laden RRB. Check carefully. Why not just cut the 12 VDC wire (#12) and put in a Bosch relay. Amazon sells bases with screw terminals. They also have sockets with #12 wires. Crimped butt splices or terminals work well. My Camelot has a standard relay with a plug in 5 pin socket….ignition and ground for coil… # 85 & # 86 to coil…..reversible ….non polarized. Fused power in on #30 and output to #87 pin which goes to the 7 pin trailer receptacle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 There was a discussion about a "two letter candy" company . . . . - b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 4 minutes ago, Rikadoo said: Hey one more thing, just trying to keep the information flowing, if ever you need a circuit board repair i found this maybe on our website i dont recall however its a good one to keep in your information base, cause sooner or later you may need it We have 2 members that can repair all the Intellitec boards in the Front and Rear. They can replace components and reprogram as well. The Candy Store charges up to 5 TIMES as much. PM. @Frank McElroy Or @pwhittle. Better job. Better service. Your pocketbook will smile…. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said: I would pull your prints…..the 2007 Dynasty, I thought, had a a ignition keyed relay is or should be downstream. BUT….this is Intellitec “PCB” laden RRB. Check carefully. Why not just cut the 12 VDC wire (#12) and put in a Bosch relay. Amazon sells bases with screw terminals. They also have sockets with #12 wires. Crimped butt splices or terminals work well. I pulled the prints and it shows the line is constant hot with fuse F7-3. But checked board F7 and no appropriate fuse. Even unplugged entire board ... still hot ... Fuse must be someplace else but the wiring diagram is correct in that the line is hot all the time from the chassis. From the 7 pin toad socket the wire quicky disappears into a wire loom mess ... As I mentioned, I could just use a pigtail but it would appear to be a more professional job matching the rest of the wiring and keeping it neater using the existing PCB sockets. So my plan to cut wire and add the standard Bosch type relay but would be cleaner to have it labeled and match closer to existing wiring rather than hanging another loose pigtail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 The two main types of connectors found on our Monaco circuit boards and other places are either Molex or Mate N Lok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 I'm thinking it is a 350809 socket but can't verify for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 (edited) I’ve had success ordering replacement male & female Molex connectors to solder onto the CB & re-pin onto the cables. https://a.co/d/dhA1AwP tool: https://a.co/d/bTZ1lop Edited March 30 by johncvandoren@gmail.com Better pix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: We have 2 members that can repair all the Intellitec boards in the Front and Rear. They can replace components and reprogram as well. The Candy Store charges up to 5 TIMES as much. PM. @Frank McElroy Or @pwhittle. Better job. Better service. Your pocketbook will smile…. THANK YOU for that post. Looks like the "candy" is finally out of the bag! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution amphi_sc Posted April 13 Author Solution Share Posted April 13 Following up on my project to have an ignition switched TRLR CHRG line vs what the factory provided as an always hot line with a 20amp fuse I can't find. Also as my 7 to 6 wire umbilical cord is only 14 gauge I wanted a 15amp breaker on the circuit and one way current draw coach to toad only. Yes, the plug I was looking for was indeed a 350809. As shipping was significantly more than the cost of a single plug I got a few spares and the corresponding sockets (unneeded at the moment but who knows what future project I might undertake that might need polarized locking connections) were 350810 and naturally pins 350550 female and 350547 male. Anyway when the alternator is running it more than compensates for the voltage drop across the diode and I'll still have plenty of voltage to keep a charged toad battery up while driving down the highway. And as it is relay switched, when I boondock for the night along the way the relay insures the coach chassis batteries are isolated from the toad. Now to update my coach wiring diagrams to match my customization. P.S. If anyone needs a plug or socket with pins my spares are available. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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