rpasetto Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 This seems as if it shouldn't be happening, but my entry step has quite an overrun. Extends fully then retracts about 2"; in the retraction cycle it re-extends then retracts all the way. I would expect a quarter inch or so... Looked underneath as it runs and I can see how the actuator arms just go too far. Contacted CoachStep/Lippert and they said "they hyperextend"... & that it is "considered normal". Could it be that one of the linkage arms is the wrong size? or ??? Still puzzled; cannot figure out how to adjust it. Step Goes out then In 2 inches.mp4 Step Mechanism Underside Overrun (1).mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 That looks like you have lost or had the adjustment stops fall out of adjustment. On either side there are bumpers that the slide out is supposed to hit to limit its travel. Look to see what happen to them. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution amphi_sc Posted March 12 Solution Share Posted March 12 Do you have the metal brackets that engages between the two steps when extended? See my picture below: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 44 minutes ago, amphi_sc said: Do you have the metal brackets that engages between the two steps when extended? See my picture below: Thank you. I checked... Are these brackets welded to the bottom step with a bolt adjusted so it catches the top one before the link hits its furthest position? (I think these are the stops that Rik was mentioning.) My picture looks like I have the same/similar model. The stop bolts on mine are just wobbling. Also the brackets on mine look like they need to be bent outward a bit. Tomorrow's project#1 if it doesn't rain. By the way, My step is a Coach Step. model 725-0072. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 These stops should "hit" just before the linkage goes past over center on the gear movement, thus the motor will get high current and the controller will turn off. Evidently yours doesn't get a high current situation until the gear runs all the way out of gear teeth. You might also check how worn out your bushings are in the linkage. I recently replaced the bushings as mine got so sloppy the linkage would rattle at the extreme and just "bounce" enough so the motor never got a firm stop (but also didn't go past center full extension) ... i.e. the pivot bolts were too sloppy in the joints. Easy enough to take the bolts out, knock out the bushings, drive in new ones and cut to length with a hack saw, smooth out the cuts on a grinding wheel, and reassemble. While I was at it I noticed the motor was engaging the top half of the teeth so I added a washer on top of the gear lowering the gear just a tad so motor engaged the gear with full tooth to tooth alignment. Years ago I also added a screen door spring to assist the starting of retraction. Probably not necessary after I cleaned up all the gunk sand/mud in the glides with a lot of WD-40 and water pressure. (Winter driving thru sanded wintry slush sure makes a mess!) The attached pictures show the angle of the linkage retracted and extended. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 14 hours ago, amphi_sc said: These stops should "hit" just before the linkage goes past over center on the gear movement, thus the motor will get high current and the controller will turn off. Evidently yours doesn't get a high current situation until the gear runs all the way out of gear teeth. You might also check how worn out your bushings are in the linkage. I recently replaced the bushings as mine got so sloppy the linkage would rattle at the extreme and just "bounce" enough so the motor never got a firm stop (but also didn't go past center full extension) ... i.e. the pivot bolts were too sloppy in the joints. Easy enough to take the bolts out, knock out the bushings, drive in new ones and cut to length with a hack saw, smooth out the cuts on a grinding wheel, and reassemble. While I was at it I noticed the motor was engaging the top half of the teeth so I added a washer on top of the gear lowering the gear just a tad so motor engaged the gear with full tooth to tooth alignment. Years ago I also added a screen door spring to assist the starting of retraction. Probably not necessary after I cleaned up all the gunk sand/mud in the glides with a lot of WD-40 and water pressure. (Winter driving thru sanded wintry slush sure makes a mess!) The attached pictures show the angle of the linkage retracted and extended. Thank you agin, Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Hey heres another 2 cents worth of information… after cleaning the rollers rather than using a grease to lube or a spray on oil, i now use a spray on dark graphite, dirt an dust dont collect an prevents rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Looked a few times at my pictures and comparing with Al's. I figured that my stop "arms" were bent a little less inward than his. First tried to bend them but nothing there, so I added 3 washers each to the stop bolts. I had to "trick" the step controller by pulling power slightly before the step was all the way out on the extend cycle. That 3/8" or so longer on the stop appears to have fixed it. (The 3 washers aren;t visible, since I taped them up to make installation easier.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill4029 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 I just completed a rebuild of my coach steps and the stops on mine were totally worn away. I visited a Home Depot and purchased 2 black rubber bottle stoppers. Drilled the center for a tight fit and slid them on the formed arms just like the ones in your picture. I actually trimmed the stopper into a wedge shape to fit in the vee on the step. replaced the slides on both sides with Knape & Vogt KV 8900 Series Full Extension Precision Ball Bearing Slides 22" 500# Class and 12" 500lb rated slides from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXMY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXLK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details A ton of work but drilled out rivets and was able to use SS cap bolts and nylock nuts to install. My old slides were loose, worn, sloppy, binding and worse! All done while the main assembly was still on the coach. Results were well worth all of the hours in the sun on my back ! Quiet, smooth and looks new. Wilt all refreshed, the adjustment was right on and operates perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 9 hours ago, bill4029 said: I just completed a rebuild of my coach steps and the stops on mine were totally worn away. I visited a Home Depot and purchased 2 black rubber bottle stoppers. Drilled the center for a tight fit and slid them on the formed arms just like the ones in your picture. I actually trimmed the stopper into a wedge shape to fit in the vee on the step. replaced the slides on both sides with Knape & Vogt KV 8900 Series Full Extension Precision Ball Bearing Slides 22" 500# Class and 12" 500lb rated slides from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXMY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXLK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details A ton of work but drilled out rivets and was able to use SS cap bolts and nylock nuts to install. My old slides were loose, worn, sloppy, binding and worse! All done while the main assembly was still on the coach. Results were well worth all of the hours in the sun on my back ! Quiet, smooth and looks new. Wilt all refreshed, the adjustment was right on and operates perfectly. Awesome job, BIll. What I did, I consider a short-term measure. I see from pictures that the stop brackets on mine are not quite bent out to 45 degrees like the example Al posted. That may explain why my stops hit the upper part of the angle iron. I know they should be bent out a bit, not sure how. I like your idea of using rubber stoppers to make new rubber ends for the stope. I will remember that when I get to spend more time on the steps, but I have a long to-do list ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Barrett Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Very helpful on 2 levels. 1st tow truck dragged the whole assembly toward the front and it pinches the front edge of the stainless trim and need to work on realignment (how is an open question). 2nd more importantly is that ALL the joint/arm connections in my coach are worn out. Seeing the 'clean and flat' washers, on the arms confirmed what I suspected. I need to replace all of them with some clean nylon (delrin if I can find it) & stainless washers (allows for arms to move more easily). Off to the hardware store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 The absolute best cleaning agent and lubricant I ever found/used , before and after, 10 years full timing is/was ; https://boeshield.com/ Invented by Boeing. I used it in/on the battery compartment tray slides, genny guide rollers, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 I did, finally, get some dry lube. I'll probably also use it on all lock cylinders. I'll pick up some small rubber stoppers also. What remains is how I can bend those "stop-arms" back a few degrees so the stops like up with the center of the angle iron. Tried a vise grip and an adjustable wrench. Need to get something with more leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill4029 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 For the size of the arms.. your idea of a adjustable wrench tight on the arm.. put a drift punch in the hole on the end for leverage.. Should be enough I would hope. :<) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 42 minutes ago, bill4029 said: For the size of the arms.. your idea of a adjustable wrench tight on the arm.. put a drift punch in the hole on the end for leverage.. Should be enough I would hope. :<) I dont think a drift punch would give the leverage to bend that (3/16"?) piece of Iron... was thinking about piece of 1/2" rebar... will try that when I get hold of the rebar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 I finally got back to this and not it's working well. Clamped a medium-size adjustable wrench to the "angle bracket" and used a big wrench for enough leverage to bend the bracket to 45 degrees so the adjustment bolt fits into the "vee" of the angle iron, inside the step. I adjusted the bolt to its max extension so it stops the step before the arms go over-center. I think there are a few worn bushings to deal with in the future. Never got rubber stoppers, but, had some reinforced rubber fuel line which I forced over the end of the bolt. I'll spray some more dry lube on the slides. They probably need replacement but for now... another check box on the to-do list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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