pcpronze

I did replace the front unit with a new Penguin 2 along with the thermostat and it works fine. The rear is the issue it does not recognize the 2nd zone. The coach has 3 heating zones. The rear thermostat controls 2 of the zones and the front thermostat controls one of the zones. I have set the rear dip switches in 3 different configurations and it makes no difference. Dometic seems to think there is another circuit board somewhere. If there is I can't find it.

I have a 05 40' PDQ Navigator with two ac/heat pump units and an Aqua hot heating system. I have replaced the rear AC unit with the new Penguin 2 unit and installed the new CCC2 thermostat. The unit powered up and showed me zone 1 only. The duo therm system had two zones, one for the bedroom and one for the bath area. The ac/ heat pump, since ducted is fine but now I have no way to turn on the bath area Aqua Hot unit. I have removed the false wall section behind the thermostat in the bath room and did not find anything except the line that goes to the thermostat and then up to the roof unit. I have called Aqua hot and Dometic with no luck in solving this problem. I would like to stay with the CCC2 thermostat and leave the control board in the AC unit alone but do not know how they accomplished this feat.

Good choice. The article says that the Trace Zantrex SW series inverter looks at the AGM as a lead acid battery not gel battery. I have 8 life line battery's in mine now going on the 8th year and we do a far mount of dry camping. I have mine set on the lead acid as per the manual Paul 2005 Navigator

The trace engineering 3K full sign wave inverter with revision 4.01 looks at the AGM as a lead acid battery. If you have the units owner manual it is on page 100. It gives a very nice definition of battery types and how to set the inverter.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have to remove the unit to rebuild or can it be done in place? If you have to remove what would the procedure be? I can see the top of the unit but not sure what is involved for safety precaution in removal.

I have a ruptured tag axel lift cylinder diaphragm on my 40' "S" roadmaster chassis. Wondering if any one has removed and repaired one. What did it take to remove the unit? I have seen u-tubes on the replace of the diaphragm, which looks quite easy. If someone knows of a u-tube or instruction that would be helpful I have searched and not been successful. Paul

I had a noisy generator and it turned out to be worn out motor mounts. The tech at Onan told me if the oil drain is below the case at all the mounts are worn sending excess vibration through the housing. Swapping out the mounts in mine made a huge difference.

The CG&J radiator does look good. When I went through their shop they do build copper and brass radiators but I don't know if it is just specific ones or not. Their labor rate is more competitive the out West. Question Paul How did you lower that beast of a radiator assembly. When mine was done they used a fork lift.

It is a spin on filter. Mine may have been the original and came off easily.

I changed mine last year. Nothing last for ever and it is made to easily change. Picked one up at the 419 maintenance Session in Goshen last year.

I purchased a CAC from CJ&G 2019 in June. To varify the radiator prior to sending it I was sent a drawing that was to the 3rd decimal place. The unit, upon drawing approval, arrived in 4 days. Very good service for an item not on the shelf. I had unit replaced by Ronnie at Tom and Marv's Truck wash in Elkart, IN. Ronnie did a very good job at $1400. Well I just had my CAC replaced again by CJ&G in June 2020. The first lasted about 6 months. When the CAC ruptured after 6 Months I called CJ&G and they said that was unusual and they certainly would warrant the unit but not the labor because they did not install it. Long story short they finally agreed to $600 install for the CAC at their place. So there I went, to Gladston, AL. When the unit was pulled out it was expanded on the inlet side. There first words were that I had a turbo issue. I looked closely at the breaks and saw very shallow welds across the top tie plate where the break was. I pointed this out to Kim, the shop manager, but said that I would have my turbo checked out. The removal and install took two day. Additionally they took the other radiators and cleaned, flushed and pressure tested them at no additional charge They topped off all the systems, using Cummins transfluid in the transmission and OAT antifreeze in the radiator. When I went to pick it up I found that the CAC was not in the correct position. After some discussion they started in to remove and realign the unit which added another day. While there I was given a tour of their radiator shop. It is impressive. They manufacture many types of radiators and have about 40 people employed. They even make and repair radiators for the very large earth moving equipment used in mining. All that said, I left Friday late afternoon and did not quite make Chattanoga, TN and my power had dropped. My fear was that I had ruptured another unit. This was late on Friday so I continued home and took the coach to Cummins in New Hudson, MI. This shop specializes in RV,s they even have a dyno to put them on. The issue was a broken clamp on the inlet, which I could not see, allowing leakage and not the inner cooler. The turbo checked out fine putting out 32psi boost. The CAC, as per Kim is checked at 80 psi. I chose their radiator because of price. Was this just luck of the draw that it failed?? The folks there were very hard working and they have employees that have been there up to 40 years whom I spoke to. The price was 1/2 of Source Engr, which is made by an outfit in California. Your decision, they sure look the same.

it looks like it was a first class repair judging from the external detail in the picture.

That's quite an undertaking how hard was it to pull the old hoses? Did you attach the new and pull them along?

The job looks familiar. I had mine rupture. I talked to a tech at Aqua hot before I cut the tank open and he said that he had heard that people had cut the bell open and fixed the break with a splice coupling and then he added that this is unofficial of course. I cut the tank open and found that it was an engineering design issue of the two coils rubbing. I have an 05 coach and at some later time Aquahot changed the diameter of the hot water coil too 3/8" from 1/2". I found that the two coils, engine preheater and hot water, rubbed together till the hot water one wore thru. I moved the engine coil about a 1/2" then I took it to a weld shop and had them put a splice coupling on, weld and pressure test the tank and walked out the door for $210. That was 5 years ago. The shop said it was not much different then a carpet cleaning unit that they repair all the time since the carpet cleaners don't think about winterization.

Well I just went to the coach and here are the NAPA part numbers for the hoses that I used on a 2005 Navigator with the ISM. NAPA part No. Quanity 8013 1ea 7224 1 ea 7905 3ea The hoses will have to be trimmed for length on one end or another but they fit the bends exactly. I believe these are what the original hoses were made from. Good luck and stay safe.

I don't know if the 05 Navigator with the ISM is the same but I replaced all my hoses by taking them over to NAPA and matching them up in their book. I called REV group first for one of the formed hoses and they gave me a price of $64 then told me it was obsolete. I asked for the part number and they told me they sold parts so could not give me the number. So I asked to buy the part and was again told it was obsolete. Those folks are useless. The formed hose was purchased from NAPA for about $13. All the hoses I purchased were a bit long at one end or the other and had to be trimmed to match exactly. My coach is in storage along with the records. I will go to it in the next few days and look up the invoices.