Chargerman

2 hours ago, Robin gagnon said:

Yes the flame sensor clean

When I have the same issue I found that my flame sensor was bad. It’s been a handful of years but I think mine showed an open circuit when I checked it with an ohm meter. As I mentioned previously, follow the Aquahot troubleshooting guide for your model and it will help keep you from throwing money at parts. Good luck! 

Best to go to the Aquahot website and go to the menu to find your model and then download the service manual and follow the directions for your specific issue

Ok  thanks

I did post a photo but cannot see it unless I click on the large blank space below my post. Can you guys see it?

Got some time in the shop today and got the burner rebuilt with the new housing,bearings and nozzle. Hopefully the new tank arrives this coming week. Thanks to Mike (zmotorsports) for sharing his rebuild video which gave me some added detail insight to the rebuild process

I broke mine during my first service 9 years ago but came up with a fix to use it. Since I’m going thru the whole unit I figured it’s time to make that right also

I just recently found that my domestic loop inside the tank started leaking. Pressure tested it to confirm. So out came the unit and ordered a new tank and also a new casting for the burner as one of my clamp flanges was also compromised. 
  Since this picture I have disassembled the unit and removed the tank and it’s currently on a skid ready to swap when the carrier delivers the new one.

   I looked at the exploded drawing of the burner and the replacement of the housing looks pretty straightforward but if anyone has done this job and has any insight of things that need particular attention please let me know.

Thank you!

WOW!!!!  So sorry to see that but happy that you’re ok.  Certainly understand your concern going forward. If you want the safest type A if would be shopping for a bus. The cost will be high for a comparable year and mileage but they are built quite different  

Thought I’d help you Out with your shopping 😂

Over on IRV2 there is a member that has a thread titled “Mods/Upgrade to our 2003 Dynasty”. He is a very talented guy and he posted the details on replacing all of his airbags. I don’t know what page it is on but it’s certainly worth reading.

9 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Likewise, I’d think so as well. I’d like to see or talk to anyone first hand. 

Unfortunately, when someone experiences an accident so bad that the house broke away from the chassis they likely won’t be reachable to talk about their experience. 

I don’t think there is a gap. Looks like this is a wedge shim at the bottom, just to the right of the bolt. You can see it better in this picture 

I think any production built motorhome that is not a commercial bus conversion/ build will basically decintergrate upon experiencing any significant impact. 

The “slide locks” on the drivers side flat floor slide are actually not locks.  They are there to assure that the top of this slide is pulled in tight when closed. The design of this slide allowed the slide to rock if not fully open or closed. They needed to design it this way to allow it to float down when deploying. If you loose hydraulic pressure on this or any other hydraulic slide it will have the potential of creeping out. The other slides utilize an X brace design which keeps the top and bottom solidly aligned so this mechanism is not required 

6 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I looked it up, but it is not clear how the hose connecter will both fit inside 4" and at the same time fit over the existing dump valve.  Do they have an adapter that fits on the dump valves to reduce it to a smaller connector on the hose? 

I don’t know the details of the design other than the fact that they state that it will fit in a 4” tube.  I saw them at a camp store the other day but I didn’t open the box  

18 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Note that the connectors are larger, and while the hose may fit, the connectors on each end won't. Before the macerater, I had to remove one end to store.

  - Rick N 

The new Camco Extreme they just came out with will fit in a 4” storage sleeve

I ended up mounting a 5” PVC square fence post cover on top of the side of the storage bay  slide for my stinky slinky but I see that Rhino just came out with a new hose that will fit in a 4” tube so I will get a set of those. 

Just a clarification…….The factory Navigator taillights will fit with the same modification that has to be done with other aftermarket units. I didn’t like the look of the factory installed “European” ones so I went with the factory red ones  

Tom

     As always you are Johnny on the spot with the details and I thank you

for that. I did find the black and have a tube on the way.  
    My window was not foggy, I had to remove it to replace my fridge and I’m not happy with the sealant I used when installing it. My window was foggy at one point and I removed it, cleaned the glass and resealed and assembled it.  This is the material I used between the panes:

https://www.dkhardware.com/black-3-16-wide-edgetech-super-spacer-66-foot-roll-alum-ss31666bl-vcp-1-product-89317.html
 

They are not “sealed” like home glass units but the size of the drives side unit does make it a little challenging. In my opinion, unless you have good confidence in your mechanical aptitude, I would take it to someone who has real experience in doing this work  

5 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Give the butyl a few days to squeeze out the gap before you trim off excess and apply your Proflex.

Will do. Thanks for the heads up  

I don’t see Proflex in black?

Thank you Scotty. I do have new butyl tape to use and look for where I can get Proflex

Thank you for the info and for the hard work you and others do in maintaining this fantastic forum. It is very much appreciated by all of us. 

I need to reset my Drivers side window and am looking for what is the best chalk/sealant to put around the perimeter once installed.

Yes, that is correct, ECM on engine and transmission need to be disconnected per Monaco. 

And their work is amazing!

Suggest you reach out to Space Coast Plating directly in Melbourne Fl.  Many times they have your mirrors in stock already plated and do a swap but they need yours to match up the radius on the base.  I just sent them a base and the time to repair and rechrome it was about 3 weeks  

I am a Rustoleum Top Side proponent. I did my roof maybe 5 years ago now and it still looks perfect with absolutely zero maintenance other than washing it once a year wish soap and a soft brush.  The last thing I want to be doing is getting on the roof so any regiment that requires reapplying it multiple time a year would certainly be off my list