Chargerman

Wow, sorry to hear of Rays passing. I always liked reading his input and advice.

RIP Ray  

     Agree strongly with the above from both guys stating to follow the troubleshooting guide. It is VERY good. You can get it on the Aquahot site. In the document section you can get all of the manuals. 
    Vito, I thought flame sensors were either good or bad? Is it true that they can be occasionally bad?

I meant to ask why you are wanting to remove those two cabinets?

I drilled up from inside the cabinet right next to where the old screw is into the metal and used sheet metal screws. I think I remember that I was able to feel the very tip of the old screw just barely coming through the cabinet wood to locate the old screw. The cabinets are screwed very tight to the ceiling so I don’t think you will have any luck with a putty knife without damaging the ceiling

I explained how I addressed it in my post. Also, see the picture 

They are screwed in place with screws coming through the ceiling from the top. They were installed as part of the roof build and then the assembly was dropped in place. I had to remove my left side cabinets early last year to get a new fridge in through the window. I forget how I was able to locate the screws coming through from the top but once I did I used a Dremel to cut around each screw to release the cabinets. You can see three screws coming through the ceiling in this picture 

As mentioned, check your owners manual for specifics on your vehicle. 

Leave the key on ACC. Read your owners manual for specifics. I had to install a battery cutoff

I have had a NSA Hercules tow bar with their integrated braking setup to tow my 2500 GMC. Very happy with it. Super stout and the braking setup is easy to hook up and has been flawless

Ok Thanks. I’ll check it out when we are back at the coach in the Spring.

Learned something new. 
 

Thank you Frank

Merry Christmas everyone!

I don’t like to leave any power on the coach for the Winter. I disconnect the batteries and leave them in my unheated garage. I disconnect them this week and will return in early May. I do make sure they are fully charged. I have done this for years and I test each one when we return and the lowest state of charge that I’ve seen when returning was 94%. Certainly leaving them on a maintainer is also a great option and I’m not attempting to argue that point. I’m only posting what I do and why and the results I’ve experienced.

Breaker on converter?

Did they have the coach plugged in? If not maybe the batteries have run down?

I’m curious as to why you guys don’t like them? Did they not function as intended? When my buddy first showed them to me I took a couple and tried them then cut them open to see the solder joint closely and they were very robust.  I’ve been sold on them since.  
 

Richard

     They do shrink before the solder has melted but you just keep the heat on it until the solder melts. Don’t try to use a torch, too much heat. One thing I have found is key to the best joining is to select the correct size and be sure the wires are pushed in far enough so that they cross each other

MODERATOR EDIT

This topic and these devices have been discussed a number of times and the general rule of thumb for the Moderators is that similar Topics will be merged with the original Topic, unless there is a compelling reason for let the new Topic stand as it is unique.

In this case, after a search was done, this one popped up.

In addition, there is a new requirement that members first do a search before posting.  SOLDER was used and there are 7 pages on such.

This "subject", unfortunately morphed from time to time and the personal preferences or the "qualifications" of a poster or several "CODE" passages" muddled it. 

END OF EDIT

A friend turned me on to these and I’ve been using them for a few months now and love them. You use a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the sleeves at the same time 

New tank arrives a few days ago and now the unit is reassembled and ready to be reinstalled 

Awesome looking coach. Congratulations!

Two quarts low shouldn’t cause an overheating but it will be interesting to hear if adding the fluid helps at all. I would consider adding a trans cooler if you can confirm with a second gauge that indeed it is running that hot  

I would look from underneath to see if you can put a piece of pressure treated wood behind the joint then screw the beltline trim thru the cap and into it with longer screws. Just be sure your piece of wood bridges the cap and the sidewall.  I would probably put some construction adhesive between the parts before screwing them down

I installed the Ugly Fix on my DD60 about 3 yrs ago also.  I haven’t noticed any difference in acceleration but I have recorded about .4 increase in mileage. What I like most is that my oil stays so much cleaner. After thousands of miles it is still translucent. Previously I couldn’t drive down the road without it becoming jet black. 

Huh? 🤔 Not sure what you are saying?

I really like Griots products. Their buffing compound has microbes that break down as you use them so only one product is needed for buffing out minor scratches and swirls. I the  use their ceramic wax and their Speedshine for detailing. Only decent pic I have. That’s the former owner of my coach that came over for a visit this past Summer. I bought it from him 9 years ago

2 hours ago, Robin gagnon said:

Yes the flame sensor clean

When I have the same issue I found that my flame sensor was bad. It’s been a handful of years but I think mine showed an open circuit when I checked it with an ohm meter. As I mentioned previously, follow the Aquahot troubleshooting guide for your model and it will help keep you from throwing money at parts. Good luck!